CHAPTER 1: A Boutique Edition Born with All the Hottest Features: Small Case, Vintage Feel, and Bronze.

TUDOR

Photographs by OKAMURA Masahiro | Text & Edit by TSUCHIDA Takashi

Full of TUDOR character. Plus, a dual approach with bracelet and fabric strap.

The first impression is one of sleekness, yet it possesses a robust, unmistakably TUDOR character. It’s packed with all the authentic details of a diver’s watch. I instantly felt, “This is undeniably cool, simple yet commanding.”

Why does it appear so simple? Because it lacks a crown guard.

This model follows the early references in TUDOR’s diver’s watch evolution that featured no crown guard. In place of the guard, the crown head has been enlarged to ensure shock resistance. The balance derived from this heritage design is this model’s overwhelming individuality. This is the decisive reason it differs from other brands’ diver’s watches.

CHAPTER 1: A Boutique Edition Born with All the Hottest Features: Small Case, Vintage Feel, and Bronze.

The case sides are smoothly curved, giving it a less bulky appearance. This makes it easy to wear for everyday occasions.

Instead of a crown guard, shock resistance is achieved through the crown’s size and thickness. At 6.8mm in diameter, it strikes an exquisite balance between operability and presence! The rose emblem on the crown top is the brand’s icon, paying homage to the English Tudor dynasty.

The absence of a crown guard gives it a clean look. Moreover, the large crown head is eye-catching. While TUDOR’s diver’s watches eventually adopted a crown guard design in their evolution, a simple case design is undeniably beautiful.

Furthermore, it pairs exceptionally well with the bronze material. The patina developed over time is further enhanced by the simple design. I can’t wait to see what kind of patina it develops.

Left: The case back, which directly contacts the skin, is made of steel with a bronze-colored PVD coating. The screw-down design is common to existing models. Right: The case line on the left side, at 9 o’clock, is also clean like this. The form is streamlined, with all excess removed.

For those wondering about bronze cases, we highly recommend seeing this one in person. The matte finish of TUDOR’s bronze case is truly exceptional. The deliberate choice to suppress shine rather than polish it to a high gloss is wonderfully understated.

This effect is achieved by applying hairline finishes to all the chamfered surfaces. By avoiding any mirror-polished surfaces and even varying the direction of the hairline finish on each facet, it achieves a remarkable sense of three-dimensionality.

TUDOR’s signature style lies in deliberately not making this metal overly shiny. This, along with its understated positioning (not ostentatious), conveys a sense of robust simplicity. While bronze can sometimes appear to have softened edges, this is a testament to the brand’s pride. Like its precious metal models, the craftsmanship is exceptionally meticulous, with sharp edges and a tense, refined finish.

Incidentally, bronze, being more corrosion-resistant than iron, was used for saturation diving helmets in the 1950s when deep-sea exploration was booming. Therefore, its use as a material for a diver’s watch has a historical context that aligns well with the material's properties.

A distinctive dial featuring Arabic numerals at the "3", "6", and "9" positions.

The dial design, with Arabic numerals at "3", "6", and "9", is reminiscent of the ROLEX "EXPLORER". This is a rare design, currently only featured on the larger 43mm bronze model in TUDOR’s lineup. Thus, one can instantly tell it's a bronze watch by its dial. To me, this dial conveys an intelligent impression, as numerals feel more intellectual than markers. What do you think? For reference, other models replace the numerals with bar indices, so please compare them in person at a store.

What also stands out is the generous application of luminescent material. To enhance visibility in deep-sea conditions, the inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, the dot hour markers, and the snowflake hands are all substantial, with ample luminescent coating applied.

Although the case is compact, the features are distinct. This is likely why the design speaks so eloquently. How wonderfully the brown color scheme complements the bronze! This brown shifts towards dark brown under nuanced lighting and creates a harmonious color contrast with the bronze in bright natural light.

TUDOR’s first bronze model, released in 2016, also featured a brown dial. However, this new model continues the gradient dial introduced in 2019, presenting a new version that promises synergistic effects with the nuanced bronze case.

It’s distinctive yet easy to wear. When placed on the wrist, you realize it surprisingly doesn’t clash with your wardrobe.

Furthermore, the newly introduced bronze bracelet features TUDOR’s in-house developed “T-fit” technology, allowing for 8mm of length adjustment. It’s a robust structure where the adjustment clasp fits into grooves carved on the underside of the clasp cover for secure locking. This allows for fine-tuning the fit according to changes in conditions, enhancing practicality.

Additionally, while fabric straps are often sold separately for other models, this one includes one from the start. It’s a strap reminiscent of the parachute material, in a brown that matches the dial color, accented with a gold center line. The buckle on the fabric strap is also, of course, bronze. This meticulous attention to detail is what defines TUDOR.