TUDOR's new "Black Bay 68" arrives in an enlarged case. Its familiar face is amplified by the larger
WATCH & JEWELRY /
FEATURES
June 23, 2025
The Luxury Watch Enters an Era of Choice
HUBLOT | Classic Fusion Titanium Deep Blue 45mm
TUDOR | Black Bay 68 43mm
The watch world has been embracing smaller case sizes for the past few years. However, 2025 is seeing an intriguing counter-trend emerge in the watch industry. The new releases from TUDOR and HUBLOT are demonstrating a unique departure from the prevailing size trends. What's noteworthy is the move towards larger cases for existing designs, a direct contrast to the recent trend of miniaturization. Furthermore, this isn't a simple size increase; it's a fundamental re-imagining of the design, underpinned by technological innovation.
Text by OPENERS
A Turning Point in Size Trends
Looking back, watch sizes have always mirrored the most robust market preferences. The 'big and thick' boom of the 2000s coincided with the rise of the Italian, American, Russian, and Middle Eastern markets. Panerai's 44mm case sent shockwaves through the watch world, establishing an aesthetic where 'presence on the wrist equals value.' At the time, wearing a slim watch somehow felt lacking.
Subsequently, as European and Chinese markets gained prominence, the tide turned. Elegant and understated sizes were deemed 'truly sophisticated,' prompting watch manufacturers to compete by introducing slim and smaller models. Sizes over 40mm were even considered 'uncouth.'
However, the TUDOR Black Bay 68 43mm model and the HUBLOT Classic Fusion Titanium Deep Blue 45mm model, both released in 2025, have emerged from a context distinctly different from these market-driven trends.
A Quiet Revolution Driven by Technological Innovation
The primary factor enabling this recent increase in size is the dramatic advancement in design and manufacturing technology. Previously, the biggest hurdle in offering the same series in different sizes was the inability to strictly maintain design balance. This was particularly true for chronographs, where physical constraints of the movement could lead to issues like the sub-dials being too close to the center of the dial. This 'squinting' effect had long been a source of frustration for watch designers.
However, the new models from TUDOR and HUBLOT show no signs of these technical limitations. While both models lack sub-dials, there is no sense of awkward spacing due to the larger size.
The TUDOR Black Bay 68 achieves such perfect proportions that it's difficult to judge which is superior, even when placed side-by-side with the existing 41mm model. Similarly, in HUBLOT's Classic Fusion, the expansion from 42mm to 45mm has resulted in a finish that perfectly retains the original impression, something that could never be achieved by simply scaling up the design values.
Left / Hublot "Classic Fusion Titanium Deep Blue" 42mm. Right / Hublot "Classic Fusion Titanium Deep Blue" 45mm (new model).
This is not merely a change in size. It represents a quiet revolution in watchmaking history, brought about by enhanced design capabilities in handling details and significant progress in manufacturing technology. While three-dimensional objects can be scaled while maintaining similarity, the impression they make on a person does not remain the same. This is precisely where the value of this technological breakthrough lies.
In recent years, many watch brands have focused on refining their existing series with subtle improvements. The accumulation of this diligent design and technological effort has finally enabled perfect size modifications.
HUBLOT Classic Fusion Titanium Deep Blue 45mm
Since its debut in 2018, the "Classic Fusion Deep Blue" series has established a solid position in the Japanese market. Now, a highly anticipated 45mm three-hand model has been added, strategically filling a gap in the existing lineup (45mm chronograph, 42mm three-hand, 33mm ladies').
The titanium case, with its beautiful contrast of satin and polished finishes, and the deep blue gradient dial evoke the depths of the ocean, exuding a unique presence. Notably, the 45mm large diameter is achieved while maintaining a restrained thickness. It embodies the ideal sought by modern watch enthusiasts: 'a confident presence on the wrist without feeling cumbersome for daily wear.'
The hybrid strap, featuring a deep blue alligator leather on the outside and black rubber on the inside, is also exceptional. It harmoniously blends visual elegance with wearing comfort, seamlessly adapting from daily use to formal occasions.
Automatic (HUB1112), titanium case (45mm diameter), titanium & sapphire case back, gradient matte deep blue dial, alligator x black rubber strap, Japan limited edition, ¥1,155,000 (incl. tax).
TUDOR Black Bay 68 43mm
TUDOR's bold decision to introduce a new 43mm size is a true symbol of the brand's rebellious spirit. While the entire industry was moving towards smaller sizes, this model was developed with a clear philosophy: 'to offer case sizes that fit all wrists.'
The "68" in the model name is inspired by the iconic "Snowflake" hands that debuted in 1968. Available with dials in two colors, Tudor Blue and Silver, the slightly slimmer case retains the original proportions while embracing modern sophistication.
Technological advancements are also noteworthy. It has received METAS Master Chronometer certification, meeting stringent accuracy standards of ±15,000 Gauss magnetic resistance and a daily deviation of 0 to +5 seconds. The 70-hour power reserve, making it 'weekend-proof,' is also a thoughtful consideration for modern lifestyles.
The newly designed three-link bracelet offers a modern alternative to the traditional riveted style. TUDOR's proprietary "T-fit" adjusting system allows for five adjustments within an 8mm range, tool-free.
Automatic (MT5601-U), METAS Master Chronometer certified, COSC Swiss chronometer certified, stainless steel case (43mm diameter) & bracelet, 200m water resistance, ¥663,300 (incl. tax).
Reconstructing Values Beyond Trends
These new releases signify a complete departure from the binary values of 'larger means superior' and 'smaller means sophisticated.' For today's affluent individuals, particularly Generation X who own multiple watches, the criteria for selecting a watch have evolved to be more multifaceted and mature.
There are clear practical benefits to larger three-hand models. They tend to have more character, and without complications, the case doesn't become too thick, posing no hindrance to daily wear. For users who have experienced sleeves catching on thick watches in the past, the 'combination of presence and practicality' is a pressing demand.
The growing demand for second or third watches cannot be overlooked. Those who already own a primary luxury watch are increasingly purchasing models that meet the criteria for daily wear as part of a strategy to diversify their collection based on occasion. These new releases are proposed as options that consider wrist size, usage scenarios, and lifestyle comprehensively.
What's Next for the Watch World?
The pendulum of size trends in luxury watches, swinging between larger and smaller cases, seems to have completed its arc. Now that the pendulum has fully swung back from the 'big and thick' boom to smaller sizes, a clear size trend is unlikely to emerge for some time.
However, the sophisticated watch selection process of the affluent will undoubtedly continue to evolve. Experience wearing watches leads to the identification of further areas for improvement. User feedback on wearability, legibility, and operability becomes the driving force for creating more refined products.
In this sense, the approach of connecting multiple perspectives to create new character, as seen in both the TUDOR and HUBLOT models, is likely to become the mainstream method going forward. Integrating seemingly contradictory elements—presence and practicality, individuality and versatility, tradition and innovation—through advanced technical skill to create unprecedented value. This is the ideal image of the next generation of luxury watches that discerning watch enthusiasts are seeking.
Contact
LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan - Hublot
Tel. 03-5635-7055
www.hublot.com
Contact
Rolex Japan / Tudor
Tel. 0120-929-570
https://www.tudorwatch.com/ja