Series: A Journey Through South Africa

Part 4: An Elegant Safari Stay at a Luxury Lodge Where You Can Feel the Wild

For travelers to the African continent, the greatest highlight is undoubtedly encounters with wildlife. This is also true in South Africa. Kruger National Park and other national parks and private game reserves are scattered throughout the country, offering the chance to encounter the Big Five: elephants, lions, buffalo, rhinos, and leopards. In the early 19th century, with wealth and leisure afforded by the Industrial Revolution, adventurous European celebrities set their sights on Africa. They journeyed to safari destinations to see the landscapes they loved.

To Part 1: Traveling in South Africa

To Part 2: Traveling in Johannesburg - 1: Nature and Culture

To Part 3: Traveling in Johannesburg - 2: A Culinary Tour

Text by MAKIGUCHI June

The Highlight of an African Journey – The Game Drive

This time, I headed to Phinda Private Game Reserve, about an hour's flight by small plane from Johannesburg. After about a 90-minute drive from the airport, I arrived at a private game reserve called Phinda Private Game Reserve. This private reserve is part of Zululand, the land of the Zulu, South Africa's largest ethnic group. It spans approximately 96,000 hectares (more than 1.5 times the area of Tokyo's 23 wards). This is the oldest reserve in Africa to be declared a "reserve." It is a wild paradise where about 450 species of flora and fauna, including the Big Five, continue their natural cycles. Of course, whether you see the large animals depends on luck.

Upon entering the area, after checking in at the main gate, I immediately boarded an open-top safari vehicle. The drive to the lodge within the park, guided by a ranger, was the beginning of the adventure for me, accustomed to city life. The first creatures I encountered were giraffes. Even from a distance, they are easily spotted, the popular inhabitants of the savanna.

Their leisurely pace and the way they plucked leaves and branches from tall trees was quite different from seeing them in a zoo. You could say they were embodying freedom. Most of all, watching giraffes playfully nudge and spar with each other right before my eyes, I could sense a strong wildness in them, beyond just their perceived cuteness. Nearby, zebras grazed. Knowing this was just the beginning, I couldn't help but snap photos with abandon.

The ranger who guided me to the lodge also serves as the leader during my stay. He determines the entire schedule and destinations based on the weather. While it is possible to drive within the park on your own by paying an admission fee, it is recommended to have a ranger accompany you if you want to see as many wild animals as possible.

The luxury game lodge where I stayed this time was "Biyela," which draws inspiration from the glamping trend. As you know, glamping is a portmanteau of "glamorous" and "camping." It's about enjoying the essence of the outdoors using convenient and comfortable gear while maintaining a luxurious lifestyle. Its origins are said to date back to the late 1800s when European aristocrats visited Africa for hunting. In the 1900s, wealthy celebrities on adventurous journeys to this region brought their own furniture and rugs, and even hired chefs to accompany them for luxurious camping experiences. This seems to have significantly influenced the current glamping style.

During my three-day, two-night stay, I could go on a maximum of two game drives per day: one in the early morning before breakfast when animals are most active, and another in the early evening before dinner. Outside of these, I enjoyed traditional cuisine at the lodge's restaurant, or chatted with rangers over tea or champagne with snacks like biltong in the lounge. I also relaxed by the room's pool or gazed out from the terrace overlooking the valley, watching wild animals like elephants and rhinos pass by, soothing my soul.

Biltong: Moist South African-style jerky

It's so elegant and comfortable that you might almost forget, but the proximity to the animals here is significant. After sunset, you are advised not to walk within the facility. Even for the short three-minute walk to the restaurant or lounge, you are instructed to call for staff and take a cart. This is a stark reminder that you are indeed within a reserve where wild animals roam freely.

The enjoyment of staying at such a lodge culminates in the game drive. This refers to driving through nature in search of animals. While respecting the wild ecosystem, humans intrude into the world of the animals. During encounters, one must keep voices low and avoid sudden movements.

Guided by the ranger in search of the Big Five, we encountered one wild animal after another. A herd of elephants with their young, diligently stripping leaves from large trees to eat. They forged their own paths through the forest, making loud rustling sounds. Elephants also knock down large trees along the riverbanks to access water. The landscape is visibly transformed after they pass. The reason elephants are sometimes called "Landscapers" is that the scenery changes dramatically in their wake.

This is what it looks like after elephants have passed.

We also spotted both white and black rhinos, which are said to be difficult to find. Rhinos are an endangered species due to overhunting by humans, so observing both was considered fortunate. The white rhino was wallowing in mud, likely to cool off on the hot day. When the ranger mentioned that the giant creature before us could actually run very fast and had attacked vehicles, everyone in the car immediately heeded the warning to "be quiet."

The black rhino, with its relatively smaller horn
The white rhino, larger in build and horn than the black rhino

We encountered countless giraffes, zebras, buffalo, and springbok, South Africa's national animal. No matter how many times we saw them, the animals were always in different situations, doing different things, and I never grew tired of watching them. When they didn't flee as we passed, but merely glanced at us, seemingly unconcerned, I felt a sense of joy, as if we had been acknowledged. Mutual recognition and minimizing harm – by keeping this in mind, coexistence is possible even between beings of different cultures. Watching them, I contemplated this possibility.

While it's possible to drive through the park on your own, the bush coffee time, where the ranger stops at scenic spots to prepare coffee, is an experience only possible with a guide.

The coffee, enhanced with Marula cream (a famous South African liqueur made from the fruit of the Marula tree, a favorite of elephants), has a creamy taste with a perfect balance of bitterness and sweetness that is addictive. The coffee gains a caramel-like smoothness with spicy and fruity notes, pairing exceptionally well with cookies. Sipping this while feeling the dry African wind, I forgot the trivialities of daily life and felt a sense of expansiveness. I could well understand why the aristocrats who loved safari life in the past were willing to endure camping to spend time in Africa.

To put it simply, my stay here exceeded expectations. While I have visited zoos and safari parks in various countries, the intensity of a game reserve is on a different level. Before me were wild animals. Though calm now, their next actions were unpredictable. The awe inspired by their wildness, far beyond human control, and the joy of existing in the heart of nature are indescribable.

Biyela, which maintains access to nature while stylishly preserving the ambiance of a game tent, offers not only mood but also first-class service. One day, upon returning from a game drive, candles and bath salts were prepared in the bathroom. The thoughtful consideration, knowing that we might have endured bumpy rides on rough roads or tensed up during animal encounters, was deeply appreciated.

During my stay, I also visited "Mthembu," a sister lodge within the same reserve. Here, under the starry sky, one can enjoy traditional cuisine and barbecue while watching performances by Zulu dancers, the local people. It is a more family-oriented luxury lodge. Immersing oneself in the rhythm of Africa while feeling the pulse of nature is incredibly comforting.

It is also possible to visit both lodges, enjoying different areas and distinct atmospheres of the park. In fact, on my way back to Biyela after dinner at Mthembu, a minor incident occurred. As we drove through the park, now completely dark after sunset, we encountered a herd of elephants. The vehicle behind us became completely surrounded by elephants and couldn't move. The elephant in front of my 4WD frequently looked back, seemingly irritated by the car following behind. Thanks to the ranger's quick thinking, we managed to guide the rear vehicle out of the herd and proceed while maintaining a safe distance to avoid further agitating the elephants ahead. It took about 40 minutes from our encounter until we cleared the herd.

Experiencing time that doesn't go according to human plans, I realized anew that this was truly the heart of nature. I felt a profound sense of emotion. I was deeply moved by glimpsing the raw wildness, so different from what one sees in a zoo.

Unfortunately, this time, two of the Big Five, the felines – lions and leopards – did not make an appearance. With the classic traveler's positive spin on disappointment, "Having something left undone means you can revisit the place," I looked forward to my next visit and headed to my next destination, Cape Town.