Beppu likely conjures images of school trips or a destination for one's golden years. While its fame as a hot spring town is undeniable, I had never actually visited as an adult.

Beppu is one of Japan's foremost hot spring destinations, boasting a history of over a thousand years. It features eight distinct hot spring areas known as Beppu Hatto, each offering unique mineral compositions and atmospheres. Among these, Kannawa Onsen stands as a true symbol of Beppu.

The sight of white steam rising from countless points across the town is quintessentially Beppu. The heat emanating from steaming facilities tucked away in narrow alleys, the lively buzz of people visiting public baths – here, a thousand years of history coexist with modern daily life.

Within Kannawa Onsen, several spots beckon for a restorative pause during one's travels. Kannawa Rokkaku Store offers a vibrant array of fresh local vegetables and fruits from Oita Prefecture, serving as a cherished gathering place for both visitors and residents. Founded two years ago by a former farmer, the store exudes a warm atmosphere, making it an inviting stop amidst a stroll through the steaming landscape.

For lunch, Fukubako Soba offers fragrant soba noodles, milled in-house with stone mills. The proprietor, who runs the shop single-handedly, crafts noodles beloved by locals and tourists alike, served alongside dishes highlighting regional ingredients.

For a stay in Beppu, the choice is the ANA InterContinental Beppu Resort & Spa, perched on a hillside.

The hotel stands on a hill offering panoramic views of Beppu Bay. Mornings are graced by sunrises painting the bay in vibrant hues, while evenings offer a spectacular sunset sinking behind the mountains. Notably, motifs of bamboo crafts, a traditional Oita art form, are subtly incorporated throughout the property. These designs, both bold and delicate, exemplify the pinnacle of Japanese modern aesthetics. It's perhaps surprising to many that Oita Prefecture leads Japan in bamboo production, a material used not only in Kyoto's crafts but also essential for cooking methods like jigoku-mushi (hell steaming).

Guest rooms range from 45 square meters, with the top-tier suites exceeding 200 square meters. Featuring warm wood tones and high-quality materials, each room subtly incorporates the delicate beauty of bamboo crafts, achieving a masterful fusion of local culture and contemporary design.

The hotel boasts several onsen baths. The outdoor open-air baths and private family baths offer a luxurious experience, allowing guests to soak while admiring the stunning views of Beppu Bay. The family baths are equipped with bedrooms and offer in-room dining, adding to their appeal. Notably, these facilities are also accessible to non-staying guests.

A signature feature of the hotel is its outdoor infinity pool. Designed to seamlessly merge with the horizon of Beppu Bay, it creates an illusion of floating between the sea and the sky. By day, it's a perfect spot to bask in the sun and embrace the resort atmosphere; by night, it offers a romantic setting to admire Beppu's illuminated cityscape.

The spa facilities are equally impressive. The HARNN Heritage Spa is the premier offering from HARNN, a luxury lifestyle brand from Thailand, and has received numerous accolades, including recognition among the world's top 20 wellness retreats. Its treatments are exclusive to this location in Japan, featuring unique therapies such as body wraps using Beppu's medicinal mud and aromatherapy using Oita-grown yuzu.

Among the dining options at InterContinental Beppu, the sushi restaurant Bungomae Kirisui is particularly noteworthy. Opened on June 1, 2025, this establishment showcases the exquisite flavors of seasonal ingredients from the Bungo Channel (Oita Prefecture), expertly prepared by a seasoned sushi master. Transcending the typical hotel restaurant, Kirisui is rapidly establishing itself as a premier culinary destination in Beppu.

The course I experienced began with appetizers featuring local delicacies such as pufferfish from Beppu Bay, Bungo octopus, and ayu sweetfish from Yufuin. Particularly memorable was the nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch) from Hiji Town. I had never encountered a fish with such profound umami and delicate texture. This rare species, inhabiting brackish waters where fresh and saltwater meet, is highly prized in the Kanto region.

A dish featuring Oita abalone, slow-cooked for five hours and served with irizake (sake reduction), showcased the chef's dedication and skill. Another rare treat was the opportunity to savor the highly prized kawahagi (thread-sail filefish), often called 'white meat toro,' in its raw form. Its exceptional freshness and subtle sweetness were truly remarkable.

The 'Kirisui' dish, served later in the course, is the restaurant's signature creation. Inspired by 'Ryukyu,' a local preparation of marinated fish (such as horse mackerel, snapper, cutlassfish, sardine, and mackerel) with soy sauce, sake, mirin, sesame, and ginger, this dish offers a complex flavor profile. Furthermore, it incorporates a unique sauce inspired by the annual Sensan Fire Festival, representing the green of new shoots and the char marks from grilling. Its taste left a lasting impression.

The flavors of local specialties like Seki horse mackerel, Seki jackfish, and bigfin reef squid were so profound that attempting to describe them felt inadequate. Each dish surpassed expectations, offering an unparalleled culinary experience.

The accompanying drink pairings were also exceptional. Among them, a Junmai sake made with Omachi rice, crafted by Yuri Inoue, Kyushu's only female Toji (master brewer) at Inoue Shuzoten, was particularly unforgettable. Learning that it is not available for general distribution only heightened its rarity and cemented its place in my memory.

The dessert course concluded not with common fruits like melon or strawberry, but with delicate creations by a female pastry chef. These artistic and imaginative sweets provided a perfect finale to the meal. The fact that Kirisui's menu changes based on daily market availability rather than fixed monthly or seasonal cycles only fuels the desire for a return visit.

Beyond Kirisui, the hotel offers several other restaurants, each providing a distinct culinary experience. Dishes featuring premium local ingredients such as Oita beef, Seki horse mackerel, and Seki Spanish mackerel promise to further enhance the enjoyment of a Beppu sojourn.

The greatest allure of ANA InterContinental Beppu Resort & Spa lies in its commitment to preserving the delicate art of Japanese hospitality alongside world-class service. The synergy of hot springs, breathtaking views, and exquisite cuisine, further enhanced by Beppu's changing seasons, culminates in a supreme luxury experience.

Beppu is evolving into a unique destination where its thousand-year history of hot spring culture intersects with contemporary, globally-minded luxury. The presence of ANA InterContinental Beppu Resort & Spa injects new vitality into this historic hot spring town, signaling the future potential of onsen tourism. Staying here transcends mere accommodation; it is an immersion into the very essence of Beppu.