The Santos de Cartier Chronograph: A Legacy of Pioneering Spirit

© Cartier © Maud Rémy-Lonvis

WATCH & JEWELRY / WATCH NEWS
July 10, 2026

The Santos de Cartier Chronograph: A Legacy of Pioneering Spirit

 

Cartier | The Santos de Cartier Chronograph

 
Cartier has released a new model of the Santos de Cartier Chronograph. Since its debut in 1904, the "Santos" has been loved worldwide as an iconic watch that symbolizes the Maison. This model, which can be considered the origin of the Maison's watches, reinterprets the chronograph that appeared in 2020 and has achieved further evolution.
 

Text by WASEDA Kosaku

Beautiful Looks and Watch Functionality

 
The name "Santos" originates from the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. In 1904, he asked Louis Cartier to create a "watch that could tell time while flying." The result was a timepiece considered the world's first modern wristwatch, designed to be worn on the wrist.
 
 © Cartier © Rory Payne
 
For over 120 years since then, the "Santos" has been passed down through the ages as the very DNA of Cartier. Santos-Dumont, who possessed an unyielding pursuit of speed, set a speed record in 1906, flying 220 meters in 21 seconds. The new chronograph is a timepiece that carries that pioneering spirit into the 21st century.
 
The case size is 47 x 39.8mm. The dial features alternating satin and sunray finishes, and the black sword-shaped hands are coated with Super-LumiNova® for luminescence. Counters are placed at the 6, 3, and 9 o'clock positions, with yellow gold or rhodium-plated borders to emphasize contrast. This maximizes legibility.
 
 
From the dial's embossing to the final protective coating, including transfers and border finishing for the counters, over 70 meticulous steps are involved. The eight screws on the case are polished, and the hexagonal crown is set with a faceted synthetic blue spinel (sapphire for the gold model). The iconic design codes of the "Santos" are evident in every detail.
 
© CARTIER © Emmanuel Lafay
 
© CARTIER © Emmanuel Lafay
 
The movement is the "Caliber 1904-CH MC," named after the birth year of the first "Santos." It features two push-buttons to operate the chronograph's start/stop and reset functions, pursuing accuracy and reliability suitable for daily use. The power reserve is 47 hours. It is water-resistant to 10 atmospheres and resistant to magnetism, shocks, and temperature variations.
 
© CARTIER © Emmanuel Lafay
 
The bracelet is equipped with the "SmartLink" system, which allows for size adjustments in seconds, and the "QuickSwitch" system, which facilitates strap changes.
 
While embodying over 120 years of history and narrative, it naturally integrates into modern daily life. This new model, which balances a high-performance mechanical movement with exceptional usability, marks a new chapter in the "Santos" lineage.
 
The Santos de Cartier Chronograph
Case size | 47mm x 39.8mm, Thickness: 11.6mm
Case material | Steel
Movement | Caliber 1904-CH MC Automatic Chronograph Movement Manufacture
Power reserve | 47 hours
Crown | Faceted synthetic spinel on a hexagonal crown
Dial | Dial with alternating satin and sunray finishes
Hands | Black steel sword-shaped hands with Super-LumiNova®, sapphire crystal
Bracelet | Steel, "SmartLink" size adjustment system, steel deployant clasp with black rubber second strap, both with "QuickSwitch" interchangeable system
Water resistance | 10 ATM
Price | ¥2,428,800 (incl. tax)
 
The Santos de Cartier Chronograph
Case size | 47mm x 39.8mm, Thickness: 11.6mm
Case material | Steel, yellow gold bezel
Movement | Caliber 1904-CH MC Automatic Chronograph Movement Manufacture
Crown | Faceted synthetic spinel on a hexagonal crown
Dial | Dial with alternating satin and sunray finishes
Hands | Black steel sword-shaped hands with Super-LumiNova®, sapphire crystal
Bracelet | Steel, "SmartLink" size adjustment system, steel deployant clasp with black rubber second strap, both with "QuickSwitch" interchangeable system
Water resistance | 10 ATM
Price | ¥3,036,000 (incl. tax)
 
The Santos de Cartier Chronograph
Case size | 47mm x 39.8mm, Thickness: 11.6mm
Case material | Yellow gold
Movement | Caliber 1904-CH MC Automatic Chronograph Movement Manufacture
Crown | Faceted sapphire on a hexagonal crown
Dial | Dial with alternating satin and sunray finishes
Hands | Black steel sword-shaped hands with Super-LumiNova®, sapphire crystal
Bracelet | Yellow gold, "SmartLink" size adjustment system, yellow gold interchangeable deployant clasp with semi-matte dark gray alligator second strap, both with "QuickSwitch" interchangeable system
Water resistance | 10 ATM
Price | ¥12,144,000 (incl. tax)
 
Contact Information

Cartier Customer Service Center

Tel. 0120-1847-00

Frequently Asked Questions About Cartier Watches

 
Q. What is the origin of the name "Santos" and the background of its creation?
 
The name "Santos" originates from the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. In 1904, he asked Louis Cartier to create a "watch that could tell time while flying." The result was a timepiece considered the world's first modern wristwatch, designed to be worn on the wrist. For over 120 years since then, the "Santos" has been passed down through the ages as the very DNA of Cartier. Named after Santos-Dumont, who possessed an unyielding pursuit of speed and set a speed record in 1906 by flying 220 meters in 21 seconds, the new chronograph is a timepiece that carries that pioneering spirit into the 21st century.
 
 
Q. What kind of model is the Santos de Cartier Chronograph?
 
This is a new model that reinterprets the chronograph introduced in 2020 and achieves further evolution. The movement is the "Caliber 1904-CH MC," named after the birth year of the first "Santos." It features two push-buttons to operate the chronograph's start/stop and reset functions, pursuing accuracy and reliability suitable for daily use. The power reserve is 47 hours, and it is resistant to magnetism, shocks, and temperature variations. The bracelet is equipped with the "SmartLink" system, which allows for size adjustments in seconds, and the "QuickSwitch" system, which facilitates strap changes.
 
 
Q. Please tell me about the history of Cartier watches.
 
Cartier's roots lie in a jewelry Maison founded in Paris in 1847 by jeweler Louis-François Cartier. Later, when his grandson, Louis Cartier, joined the management in 1898, he also demonstrated talent in watchmaking. A turning point came in 1904 when his friend, the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, commissioned him to create a watch that could be read while flying with hands on the controls. Louis responded to this request and created the "Santos," considered the world's first modern wristwatch designed to be worn on the wrist. At a time when round pocket watches were mainstream, the square case and the deliberately exposed screws were a groundbreaking design that would greatly influence subsequent watch designs.
 
Louis Cartier continued to create innovative watches, and in 1917, he unveiled the "Tank," inspired by the tanks that appeared during World War I. More than 120 years after the birth of the Santos in 1904, the "Santos" and "Tank" continue to be iconic Cartier collections. As a Maison that upholds innovative design philosophy, it is an indispensable presence in the history of watchmaking.
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