“NEWPORT” is the emblem of Michel Herbelin | MICHEL HERBELIN
MICHEL HERBELIN
A Designer Inheriting the DNA of Michel Herbelin
An Interview with Mathieu Herbelin (Part 1)
Michel Herbelin's popular collection "NEWPORT" celebrates its 30th anniversary with a refreshed design. Leading this initiative was Mathieu Herbelin, the founder's grandson. We spoke with Mathieu about the spirit of the Michel Herbelin brand and the new "NEWPORT."
Text by KOIZUMI Yoko
"IMPEC": The Perfect
—This year marks Michel Herbelin's 71st year since its founding. In the watch industry, where family businesses often struggle, what has allowed you to continue operating independently?
MatthewWe have valued sincerity since my grandfather's time, both in our products and towards our customers.
While the brand now bears my grandfather's name (Michel Herbelin), it was originally named "IMPEC," a French word meaning "perfect." Doesn't that name reflect my grandfather's ethos?
My grandfather laid the foundation for the brand by pursuing quality, and my father focused on nurturing it. It's thanks to their combined efforts that we continue as an independent brand today. I am very proud of them and of our family.
—Your headquarters remain in Charquemont, France, where the company was founded.
MatthewRemaining in our founding location is also a source of pride for us. We even have employees who have been with us since my grandfather's era. We consider them family too.
—Charquemont is on the border with Switzerland, close to La Chaux-de-Fonds, Bern, and Le Locle, isn't it?
NEWPORT Chrono Automatic
Movement: Automatic
Case, Bezel: Stainless steel (Grey Anthracite PVD coating)
Case Diameter: 43.5mm
Case Back: Sapphire crystal
Water Resistance: 10 bar
Price: ¥368,000 (excluding tax)
Limited Edition: 300 pieces worldwide
Release: Scheduled for July 2018
NEWPORT Automatic
Movement: Automatic
Case, Bezel: Stainless steel (Grey Anthracite PVD coating)
Case Diameter: 41mm
Case Back: Sapphire crystal
Water Resistance: 10 bar
Price: ¥198,000 (excluding tax)
Limited Edition: 500 pieces worldwide
Release: Scheduled for July 2018
MatthewCrossing the Jura Mountains brings you to Switzerland. Perhaps our predecessors were keenly aware of Swiss watchmaking's high quality. However, we also take great pride in being French and a French brand.
Our brand's mission is to preserve that French taste.
—Could you elaborate on that?
MatthewAs a Frenchman, when I look at Swiss watches, I sometimes feel they are a bit too conservative, perhaps too rigid. I find myself thinking, "They wouldn't make a watch like this, would they?"
A significant difference lies in the sense of scale and balance of the indices and subdials. Swiss aesthetics are very traditional. You could say they are solid and robust.
In contrast, freedom is highly valued in France, and this extends to design. An unconventional approach is considered a virtue. It's about conveying a sense of freedom even within tradition. Our decision to remain an independent, family-run business stems from this pursuit of freedom.
Page02.The theme is "NEWPORT" for Adults
MICHEL HERBELIN
A Designer Inheriting the DNA of Michel Herbelin
An Interview with Mathieu Herbelin (Part 2)
The theme is "NEWPORT" for Adults
—Michel Herbelin's flagship model is the "NEWPORT," which debuted in 1988. Even the lugs show a unique design sensibility.
MatthewAt a time when simplicity was the trend, releasing a watch with lugs positioned in the center must have surprised many. I believe it was a bold decision.
There was a certain dreamlike quality to marine sports back then. It was full of luxury, and marine style became a global trend. Amidst this, the "NEWPORT," with its oceanic essence, proposed a completely different, light, and sporty look that captivated many fashionistas, becoming a major hit series.
—That "NEWPORT" celebrates its 30th anniversary this year.
MatthewWe believe the "NEWPORT" is indispensable to Michel Herbelin. Looking back at our history, there have been good times and bad. However, we have consistently refined and improved it. That is the sole secret to its enduring success.
Charquemont is far from the sea. Releasing a marine watch from such a location was possible because of my grandfather's love for the ocean.
NEWPORT Automatic Skeleton
Movement: Automatic
Case: Stainless steel
Case Diameter: 35mm
Water Resistance: 10 bar
Price: ¥300,000 (excluding tax)
Limited Edition: 300 pieces worldwide
Release: Scheduled for July 2018
NEWPORT Ladies
Movement: Automatic
Case: Stainless steel
Case Diameter: 35mm
Case Back: Sapphire crystal
Dial: Mother-of-pearl (MOP)
Price: ¥172,000 (excluding tax)
Release: Scheduled for July 2018
He loved the Mediterranean and often took me there. By sharing his way of life, I've come to understand his vision today.
—Could you tell us about the new models?
MatthewThe theme is "NEWPORT" for adults.
For the men's collection, we've modified the bezel design to give it a more modern feel while retaining its robustness.
The five screws will now serve as the new icon for the "NEWPORT" men's collection.
—The strap arrangement has also changed.
MatthewPreviously, we designed with the space between the lugs and the case in mind. For the new "NEWPORT," the strap fits snugly against the case, and we've adopted a new strap shape.
What do you think? Doesn't the central lug, the symbol of "NEWPORT," appear to float?
—There are also striking limited editions for ladies.
MatthewSkeleton models for women are rare, making this an exceptionally unique piece. We also offer a mother-of-pearl (MOP) dial; the beauty of MOP is a gift from the sea, an essential material perfectly suited for the "NEWPORT."
—Furthermore, the collection has been expanded to broaden the world of "NEWPORT."
MatthewIn addition to the basic "NEWPORT" line, we have the casual "NEWPORT Royale," the high-spec "Trophy" with 30 bar water resistance, and the "Cape Camarat," inspired by the compass and borders symbolizing sailors.
—How do you envision the "NEWPORT" family growing in the future?
Matthew"NEWPORT" is the emblem of Michel Herbelin. In today's world, new things emerge and disappear almost weekly. Yet, "NEWPORT" has been loved for 30 years; it is our treasure. Our goal from the 31st year onward is to cherish this icon, ensure it stays relevant with the times, and make it even more beloved by everyone.
NEWPORT ROYALE
Movement: Quartz
Case: Stainless steel
Case Diameter: 39mm
Dial Color: Blue (also available in black, silver)
Water Resistance: 5 bar
Price: ¥100,000 (excluding tax)
Release: Scheduled for July 2018
NEWPORT ROYALE
Movement: Quartz
Case: Stainless steel
Case Diameter: 29.3mm
Dial Color: MOP (also available in blue, silver)
Water Resistance: 5 bar
Price: ¥100,000 (excluding tax)
Release: Scheduled for July 2018
TROPHY
Movement: Automatic
Case: Stainless steel
Case Diameter: 42mm
Water Resistance: 30 bar
Price: ¥137,000 (excluding tax)
Sales: Scheduled for July 2018
CAP CAMARAT
Movement: Automatic
Case: Stainless steel
Case Diameter: 40.5mm
Water Resistance: 10 bar
Price: ¥137,000 (excluding tax)
Release: Scheduled for July 2018