It's All in the Details: A Masterclass in Elevating Vintage Design | Bell & Ross
WATCH & JEWELRY / SIHH&BASEL
August 23, 2017

It's All in the Details: A Masterclass in Elevating Vintage Design | Bell & Ross


Bell & Ross


The Vintage Series, Representing Bell & Ross's Origins,
Celebrates its 20th Anniversary. A Classic Design Returns After a Long Hiatus!!


As if to say, "We've kept you waiting!" ten round-form Vintage series watches were unveiled simultaneously at this year's Baselworld. They are set to arrive in Japan this autumn. More than mere reissues, their details have been refined, imbuing them with an even more direct sense of heritage than the original Vintage series. Among them, the model that stands out for its sheer simplicity is the "BR V1-92 BLACK STEEL." Priced at 265,000 yen (excluding tax), it's a refreshingly honest price in today's market.

Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi(OPENERS)




A Good Balance of "Design, Quality, and Price"


This is precisely why Bell & Ross captures the hearts of discerning men. While lacking the ostentation of major luxury houses, their watches possess a distinctive "less is more" aesthetic that makes them instantly recognizable as Bell & Ross.

"What brand is that?"
"Ah, as I thought."

Bell & Ross's meticulous attention to detail is extraordinary, ensuring their watches reach the right audience. Designed for mass production, they are not flashy but appeal to connoisseurs. Consider, for instance, the elegant curve from the case to the lugs on the "BR V1-92 BLACK STEEL." The edges are not unnecessarily sharp but are gently chamfered, accentuating the form. The hairline finish is also a key element. This is the texture one seeks in a daily-wear watch – neither more nor less.

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"Timeless appeal lies in pursuing simplicity. We focused on stripping away ornamentation, refining the concept, and making it clear.

Furthermore, this third generation of Vintage incorporates technical advancements.

We've engineered it to appear slimmer by reducing its size," says Creative Director Bruno Belamich.



While the previous Vintage series predominantly featured a 41mm case diameter, this new series offers both 38.5mm and 41mm options. The lugs, previously straighter and more angular, are now rounded, enhancing ergonomics and visual appeal from the side by reducing perceived thickness and bulk.



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First Generation
The first generation is characterized by its classical dial, rounded lugs, and lack of a bezel. This design maximizes the dial's aperture, ensuring excellent legibility. The Arabic numeral indices used a different font than those seen today.






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Second Generation
The second generation, released in 2010, featured redesigned dial and case. It boasted a larger case size and a bezel, with lugs evolving into a sharper form. The dial followed the graphical principles of the BR 01, incorporating distinctive sword-shaped hands.






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Third Generation
The latest collection evolves to meet contemporary demands. While maintaining the dial's identity, the case has been refined. With a smaller case diameter, the watch's profile appears flatter, and the rounded lugs now seamlessly integrate with the bracelet.





This form, closer to the models of the 1930s and 40s when military watches were mass-produced, is undoubtedly intentional on Belamich's part.

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BR V1-92 BLACK STEEL

Movement | Automatic. Caliber BR-CAL.302
Case Material | Stainless Steel
Case Diameter | 38.5mm
Crystal | Domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Strap | Black calfskin
Water Resistance | 100m
Price | 265,000 yen (excluding tax)
Release | Scheduled for September release




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BR V1-92 MILITARY

Movement | Automatic. Caliber BR-CAL.302
Case Material | Stainless Steel
Case Diameter | 38.5mm
Crystal | Domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Strap | Black calfskin
Water Resistance | 100m
Price | 265,000 yen (excluding tax)
Release | Scheduled for September release




08_BR-V2-92-Black-LEATHER



BR V2-92 BLACK STEEL

Movement | Automatic. Caliber BR-CAL.302
Case Material | Stainless Steel
Case Diameter | 41mm
Crystal | Domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Strap | Black calfskin
Water Resistance | 100m
Price | 350,000 yen (excluding tax)
Release | Scheduled for September release




D



BR V2-94 BLACK STEEL

Movement | Automatic. Caliber BR-CAL.301
Case & Bracelet Material | Stainless Steel
Case Diameter | 41mm
Crystal | Domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Water Resistance | 100m
Price | 570,000 yen (excluding tax)
Release | Scheduled for September release




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BR V2-92 AÉRONAVALE

Movement | Automatic. Caliber BR-CAL.302
Case Material | Stainless Steel
Case Diameter | 41mm
Crystal | Domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Strap | Blue calfskin
Water Resistance | 100m
Price | 360,000 yen (excluding tax)
Release | Scheduled for September release




E



BR V2-94 AÉRONAVALE

Movement | Automatic. Caliber BR-CAL.301
Case Material | Stainless Steel
Case Diameter | 41mm
Crystal | Domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Strap | Blue calfskin
Water Resistance | 100m
Price | 580,000 yen (excluding tax)
Release | Scheduled for September release



Page02.Crafting Complex Cases from Machined Sapphire




Bell & Ross


A New Sandwich-Structure Case Design
A New Concept: Direct Mounting of a Square Movement



Crafting Complex Cases from Machined Sapphire


Following last year's release, this year sees the debut of another all-sapphire, see-through precious model. What's particularly intriguing is that this year, the movement itself is designed in the iconic square form of Bell & Ross.

To allow the wearer to fully appreciate this, the intricately shaped case is machined from sapphire, offering a completely transparent view from all angles.

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Furthermore, a stainless steel outer frame is employed, adopting a sandwich structure. This ensures sufficient strength and practicality.

The movement, featuring a micro-rotor, is 8.9mm thick. For a complex model with a tourbillon, this is a remarkably practical thinness.

Bell & Ross's commitment to sharpness, precision machining, and the beauty of industrial design remains unwavering. As a brand that champions "instrument watches for the wrist," the square case is a perfectly logical icon.

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BR-X2 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor

Movement | Automatic. Caliber BR-CAL.380
Functions | Flying Tourbillon
Case Material | Stainless Steel, Sapphire Crystal
Case Dimensions | 42.5mm x 42.5mm
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 50m
Price | 7,900,000 yen (excluding tax)
Release | Scheduled for July release
Limited Edition | 99 pieces worldwide

Page03.Interview with Bruno Belamich




Bell & Ross


Bruno Belamich, Creative Director of Bell & Ross


An Interview with Bruno Belamich



Universality Means Simplicity


How do you perceive design?

B



Above all, it's about listening to the customer's needs. That's the most important thing for a designer.

In this collection, we aimed to evolve existing models, and I'm proud to say I was able to fully express my creativity within that framework.

Bell & Ross watches are functional yet possess a nostalgic charm. Why do you continue to cherish this vintage sensibility?





The Vintage collection receives passionate support from users who appreciate a traditional aesthetic. However, as a designer, it's also important to explore new territories beyond the realm of aviation.

This Vintage collection has been refreshed into its third generation this year. What aspects did you focus on to introduce newness?



Universality lies in simplicity. We focused on refining the concept and making it clear, without excessive ornamentation. The third generation also incorporates technical advancements.

The standard case diameter has been reduced from 43mm to 41mm. To achieve a thinner case profile, we adopted a domed sapphire crystal.

At the same time, we put considerable effort into differentiating from existing models. Changes to the dial color, screw shape, lug


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shape, and bracelet design, among other details, have been accumulated to update this timeless beauty.

Will you be creating smartwatches in the future?

No. We want to remain a brand that inspires dreams. We have no intention of competing with Apple or Samsung.

Contact Information


ALL BLUE


Tel.03-5977-7759


http://www.bellross.com




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