WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH＆BASEL
April 10, 2017
A noble pride in leaving the dial unadorned. This is the mark of true quality | H. MOSER & CIE.
H. MOSER & CIE. | H. Moser
Forged in Schaffhausen
Quality-focused, sincere craftsmanship
A well-made watchmaker's credo (1)
About 35 kilometers north of Zurich, along the Rhine River, lies the industrial city of Schaffhausen. Harnessing the river's flow for power, the region has long been a hub of industry. In the watchmaking world, IWC has found success in the same locale. Yet, while built on a foundation of German-speaking precision and robust craftsmanship, the new H. Moser possesses an allure unlike any before. With its striking fumé dials and distinctively sculpted cases, featuring bold indentations along the sides, there's a unique, captivating sensuality.
Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi (OPENERS)
Unsigned, yet distinctively individual: The classic "Gentleman's Jewel"
The new 2017 Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Cosmic Green, with its dial featuring a green gradient, seems to shimmer with the brilliance of an emerald. It complements a suit without disrupting business decorum, yet makes a sophisticated statement.
This beautiful gradient is what H. Moser calls a fumé dial. This special finish, achieved through meticulous layering of paint, is a trademark of H. Moser. To preserve the beauty of the fumé dial on this model, both the logo and indices have been omitted.
Like a nebula, or perhaps a miniature cosmos. For the romantic who likens the complexity of a wristwatch to the universe, no timepiece could be more fitting. Perhaps it's the potential of the color green, but it feels noble, gentle, and adds a touch of brilliance.
Production of this watch is limited to 20 pieces each for the 18k white gold and 18k yellow gold case materials, further enhancing its value.
Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Cosmic Green
Ref. | 1343-0211 (18K White Gold)
Movement | In-house manual-winding HMC343
Power Reserve | Approx. 7 days (Dual Barrel)
Dial | Cosmic Green Fumé Dial
Case Material | 18K White Gold
Case Diameter | 40.8mm
Case Back | See-through
Strap | Alligator
Limited Edition | 20 pieces
Price | ¥2,900,000 (excluding tax)
Page 02.Featuring a new alloy hairspring, revealing the next generation
H. MOSER & CIE. | H. Moser
Forged in Schaffhausen
Quality-focused, sincere craftsmanship
A well-made watchmaker's credo (2)
Featuring a new alloy hairspring, revealing the next generation
H. Moser currently produces approximately 1,200 watches annually, supported by a team of 55 employees. Of these, 30 are watchmakers. This means over half the staff are watchmakers, which may be standard for a manufacture that produces its own hairsprings.
Indeed, while H. Moser may be small in scale, it is one of the few watchmakers capable of producing its own hairsprings. Its exceptional technological development is fostered through its collaboration with the group's technical division, Precision Engineering AG.
The hairspring in the new "Venturer Small Seconds XL" is a newly developed proprietary alloy, PE5000, described as an alloy of niobium and titanium. While other brands are exploring the use of silicon for hairsprings, silicon has a drawback in production due to its difficulty in adjustment. These production challenges translate into costs, posing a significant issue for consumers. Therefore, H. Moser newly announced PE5000 this year as an alternative material.
The model equipped with the PE5000 hairspring, which excels in paramagnetism and shock resistance, will be released this season in a limited edition of 10 pieces. This can be considered a test model. Whether this new material can become the basic standard for the next generation remains to be seen. However, the rarity of this initial limited run of 10 pieces will undoubtedly endure.
The dial features a midnight blue fumé, and in harmony with this blue, the balance wheel and balance cock also adopt a blue hue.
Venturer Small Seconds XL
Ref. | 2327-0206
Movement | In-house manual-winding HMC327
Power Reserve | Approx. 3 days
Dial | Midnight Blue Fumé Dial
Case Material | 18K White Gold
Case Diameter | 43mm
Case Back | See-through
Strap | Alligator
Limited Edition | 10 pieces
Price | ¥2,700,000 (excluding tax)
Incidentally, current CEO Edouard Meylan intends to "increase production to around 3,000 watches per year within the next few years." To achieve this, he is focusing on strengthening the production system by increasing staff numbers, including recruiting watchmakers with the necessary skills.