Hautlence | SIHH 2016 Geneva Salon Report | HAUTLENCE
WATCH & JEWELRY / SIHH&BASEL
February 24, 2016

Hautlence | SIHH 2016 Geneva Salon Report | HAUTLENCE


HAUTLENCE


Developing Avant-Garde Timepieces in the Cradle of Swiss Watchmaking (1)


Founded in 2004, HAUTLENCE has developed unique complication models. In 2015, the brand expanded its lineup with tourbillons and watches featuring innovative timekeeping mechanisms, marking a significant enhancement that could be considered a turning point.

Text by KAWADA Akinori




Brand Name Derived from "Neuchâtel," a Hub of Swiss Watchmaking



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A High-Level Automatic Tourbillon


Timepieces with complex mechanisms are most often hand-wound. Even if an automatic winding system were adopted for a complex mechanical watch, it would likely result in a thicker case, a significant drawback.

HAUTLENCE's new releases feature automatic winding with a three-day power reserve. A tourbillon with the basic specifications of a modern, practical watch is exceptionally rare. Furthermore, a case thickness of just 12.4mm is remarkable for such a complex timepiece, suggesting excellent styling.

The "Tourbillon 02" and "Tourbillon 03" from HAUTLENCE, introduced this year, are variations of the "Tourbillon 01," which debuted in 2015 as an advanced tourbillon model.

These watches are equipped with tourbillon movements from H. Moser, a sister company under the Meyrin Group. The carriage at 6 o'clock is visible through apertures on both the front and back, with the rear supported by a frame-like bridge. This design allows for full appreciation of the intricate mechanical complexity from either side.

Additionally, this mechanism incorporates a second time zone display. A smaller hour hand indicates the home time (second time zone), while an independently adjustable hour hand shows the local time. When in your home country, the two hands can be perfectly aligned, making the smaller hand virtually unnoticeable. It is both practical and elegantly designed.

This year, the dial color has been updated from the 2015 models. The black dial has been replaced with a metallic rhodium finish, accentuating the three-dimensional structure and the beautiful Côtes de Genève patterns, creating a visually striking effect.

HAUTLENCE's skill in crafting a classic round complication with their unique interpretation is truly impressive. It not only showcases their distinctive case design but also inspires a desire to see their take on more orthodox watch styles.

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Tourbillon 02(Left photo)
Tourbillon 03(Right photo)
Case: Grade 5 Titanium + Stainless Steel / Left photo
Grade 5 Titanium + 18K Pink Gold / Right photo
Diameter: 44mm
Thickness: 12.4mm
Movement: Automatic (Cal. HMC 802)
Functions: Tourbillon, Second Time Zone Display
Strap: Alligator
Water Resistance: 3 bar
Release: Scheduled for late 2016
Estimated Price: ¥12.5 million / ¥14 million (excluding tax) for left/right photos respectively



Page02.Innovative Timekeeping and Escapement Mechanisms




Contact


Noble Styling


Tel. 03-6277-1604


http://noblestyling.com/







HAUTLENCE


Developing Avant-Garde Timepieces in the Cradle of Swiss Watchmaking (2)



Pushing the Boundaries of Timekeeping and Escapement Mechanisms


HAUTLENCE has consistently pursued originality in its timekeeping mechanisms since its inception, and the "Vortex," introduced in 2015, is no exception.

Promotional video for the "Vortex" released in 2015




The minutes are displayed by a hand at the center of the watch, which moves in a sector and instantly returns to zero upon reaching the end of its track – a retrograde display. Due to the significant mechanical strain, this complication is rarely used for the minute hand.

Approximately three seconds after the retrograde minute hand returns to zero, the hour markers, normally located around the 8:30 position, are advanced through a window. The hour markers consist of plates with numerals arranged on a caterpillar-like belt. The mechanism that drives this belt is the mobile bridge, which houses the escapement. Every 60 minutes, this bridge rotates 60° vertically, carrying the escapement with it. The left end of the bridge then advances the caterpillar belt, displaying the time.

The spectacle of the retrograde display returning to zero, followed by a brief pause and the mesmerizing movement of the escapement, all while the hour markers advance, repeats every 60 minutes. This model, with its captivatingly complex and visible mechanics on both sides, is a dream for any mechanical enthusiast.

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Vortex 02
Case: 18K Red Gold
Size: 52mm (length) × 50mm (width)
Thickness: 17.8mm
Movement: Automatic (Cal. HLR2.0)
Functions: Retrograde minute hand, plate-based time display, rotating mobile bridge mechanism
Strap: Alligator
Water Resistance: 3 bar
Limited Edition: 28 pieces
Release: Scheduled for July 2016
Estimated Price: ¥32 million (excluding tax)



Page03.Artistic Expression Through Stained Glass




Contact


Noble Styling


Tel. 03-6277-1604


http://noblestyling.com/







HAUTLENCE


Developing Avant-Garde Timepieces in the Cradle of Swiss Watchmaking (3)



Artistic Expression Through Stained Glass





As explained on the previous page, the "Vortex"is a watch that displays time with spectacular flair by synchronizing precise, complex mechanisms. Its angular design, with the front and back of the case largely made of sapphire crystal, evokes the aesthetic of a glass-enclosed modern building.

What if that glass were stained glass?

This idea, blending contemporary style with artistic sensibility, was conceived by HAUTLENCE ambassador Éric Cantona. Born in Marseille, France, he was a star player for the French national football team and captained Manchester United to four league titles (including two doubles with the FA Cup) before retiring in 1997. He has since pursued a career as a film actor, appearing in numerous movies, and made his stage debut in 2010.


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This watch reflects the sharp insight of a living legend. The intricate mechanisms, visible through the semi-transparent colored glass of the stained glass, create a striking contrast with the black case, exuding a distinctly modern architectural feel.

The spectacular mechanism of the "Vortex" is perfectly complemented by this visual effect of color. It is a unique model that other brands could not replicate.

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Vortex Primary by Éric Cantona
Case: Black Titanium
Size: 52mm (length) × 50mm (width)
Thickness: 17.8mm
Movement: Automatic (Cal. HLR2.0)
Functions: Retrograde minute hand, plate-based time display, rotating mobile bridge mechanism
Strap: Alligator
Water Resistance: 3 bar
Limited Edition: 18 pieces
Release: Scheduled for July 2016
Estimated Price: ¥30 million (excluding tax)




Contact


Noble Styling


Tel. 03-6277-1604


http://noblestyling.com/