A Pocket Watch with Beautiful Blue Enamel

H. Moser previously held its new product launches at its own venue during Baselworld, but participated in SIHH in 2016. Although a small-production workshop brand, it stood out among the nine brands participating for the first time this year.

While retaining its signature mechanisms such as the Straumann Double Hairspring and the Interchangeable Escapement, the brand has reorganized its lineup since 2014 into three main collections: the traditional "Endeavour," the modern-vintage "Venture," and the active "Pioneer." As of 2016, this reorganization is progressing steadily, and various new initiatives are becoming more active accordingly.

This time, the development of a perpetual calendar model inspired by pocket watches previously manufactured by Moser was announced. The original pocket watch is an artistic masterpiece, featuring a precisely enameled painting on its hunter case, which is said to be reproduced as well.

In addition, there were concept models with the brand's design icon, the unique fumé dial with its gradient colors, as well as watches that had been generating buzz even before SIHH. This time, we would like to focus on the special models that are rich in H. Moser's unique originality.

A Controversial Piece!? The "ALP Watch" Causes a Sensation

The talk of the venue was the "Swiss Alp Watch," whose existence was first announced and covered online. If the case shape and the name "Alp" remind you of anything, many might think of that smartwatch with the apple logo.

The leather strap, made from the hide of a kudu, a rare African antelope-like animal, is brushed for a pleasant feel and finished in a vibrant Moser green on the underside. This evokes a "green apple" image, showcasing extreme humor. However, this watch is no mere joke or parody. It presents an antithesis to computer technology-driven timepieces, expressing what "true luxury watches" are with H. Moser's sharp critical spirit and love for traditional mechanical watches.

The large, rectangular face features three-dimensional H. Moser analog hands and a beautifully graduated "fumé dial." And when you turn the watch case over, you will undoubtedly find a meticulously crafted mechanism beating within.



It is a hand-wound movement brimming with advanced mechanisms and traditional decoration. Both the exterior and the movement are Swiss-made, crafted without compromise. Equipped with H. Moser's signature Straumann hairspring and interchangeable escapement, it is truly a masterpiece of mechanical movement. Although this is a custom-designed rectangular movement, only a handful of manufacture in Switzerland produce their own authentic rectangular movements. Its power reserve is 100 hours. Unlike smartwatches that require charging after a day's use, this watch can be fully used for approximately four days. The only function besides displaying the time is the power reserve indicator on the movement, visible through the see-through case back. It seems to deliberately strip away any unnecessary features.

It is a witty, rectangular watch that, apart from its exterior originality, is a perfectly finished mechanical timepiece, making its buzz, which even topped news sites, entirely understandable. Of course, it cannot connect with smartphones, but that is not a drawback at all. However, the fact that it is a rare limited edition of only 50 pieces worldwide is, in a way, quite disappointing.

Page02.The Simplest Perpetual Calendar

The Simplest Perpetual Calendar

At the 2015 new product launch event, a "concept model" was presented. It was a 3-hand model with no time display, completely devoid of logos and indices, designed to highlight the beauty of H. Moser's signature fumé dial. At this year's SIHH, this "concept model" was released as a limited edition.

This watch is the "Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept," featuring H. Moser's distinctive complication model with a fumé dial. Originally, H. Moser's perpetual calendar display is remarkably simple for a perpetual calendar. The leap year indicator is placed on the movement visible through the see-through case back, and the month is indicated by a short hand on the same axis as the center hour and minute hands. The day of the week display is omitted, with only the date at 3 o'clock and the power reserve at 9 o'clock prominently displayed on the dial.

And with this limited edition, all parts for displaying the time have been removed, resulting in an astonishingly simple perpetual calendar model. The dial, which belies its complication, is the epitome of simplicity. The gradient shading of the fumé dial creates a fantastical and mystical aura. This design, which pushes the boundaries of watchmaking, is worth seeing.

Page03.Collaboration with Bryan Ferry

A Collaboration with Bryan Ferry Becomes a Reality

This is the "Endeavour Small Seconds Bryan Ferry," a collaboration model with Bryan Ferry, the legendary rock star who shaped an era as the leader of Roxy Music in 1972 and as a solo artist.

This model, co-designed by CEO Edouard Meylan and Bryan Ferry, possesses a vintage feel that is uncharacteristically H. Moser, in a good way. The case size, under 40mm in diameter and under 10mm thick, makes it look like an antique wristwatch from the early 20th century.

To the left and right of the small seconds at 6 o'clock, Bryan Ferry's name is discreetly printed. Despite being a collaboration, the restrained design is highly commendable.

For fans accustomed to the unique fumé dials with simple bar indices, this design will appear fresh. It may also be a more accessible price point for an H. Moser limited edition.