WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH&BASEL
February 1, 2016
IWC | SIHH 2016 Geneva Salon Breaking News | IWC
IWC | International Watch Company
New Pilot's Watches Inherit a Legacy (1)
It has become IWC's custom to completely renew one of its core collections at the annual SIHH. This year is, in a word, the year of the "Pilot's Watch," and a powerful lineup has been prepared.
Text by KAWADA Akinori
The Legend of the Pilot's Watch, Revisited
Which collection would be renewed this year? Answering this question is one of the pleasures for those who visit the IWC booth, and this time, many were likely surprised to see a Spitfire, the famous fighter aircraft of the British Royal Air Force, suspended from the ceiling at the booth's entrance, as if in an aviation museum.
2016 is the "Pilot's Watch Year." It marks the period of revision for this collection, the first since 2012. The "Mark" series, the core of the collection, has advanced from the "Mark XVII" to the "Mark XVIII." The "Chronograph" and "Big Pilot's Watch" also show a return to designs that enhance a vintage feel overall, while simultaneously diversifying in size and color, resulting in an even more varied collection.
Additionally, the "Petit Prince" models, a tribute to Antoine de Saint-Exupéry that has become an annual tradition, also appeared, adding a fitting touch to the collection's year.
The "Mark XVIII": A Return to Design and Size
The "Mark XVIII" has arrived, continuing the lineage of the "Pilot's Watch" that began in 1948 and was supplied to the British Royal Air Force. This renewal strongly reinforces the impression that watch design trends are returning to the past.
The robust construction and strong antimagnetic properties due to the soft iron inner case remain. The previous "Mark XVII" featured a 41mm case and a large date window displaying the date before and after, indicating a modernization effort. Four years later, the "Mark XVIII" case size has been reduced to 40mm. This time, the date display is in a conventional, smaller style, ensuring a clean layout and legibility. The indices at 6 and 9 o'clock have also been reinstated.
With subtle changes, the design has been refined to a conservative impression in the best sense, and it is likely to gain support from the many fans who appreciate watches in the 40mm size. The leather straps, used across almost all series, are from the high-quality Santoni company, achieving a beautiful finish and comfortable wear. In addition to the classic black dial and the silver dial for the Spitfire specification, there are also "Top Gun" models with a military feel, and "Petit Prince" specifications paying tribute to the novelist Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, who was also a pilot, and his masterpiece "The Little Prince."
The "Petit Prince" is particularly captivating with its midnight blue dial, reminiscent of the color of the high sky. This color, combined with the calm of vintage aviation watches and the engraved figure of "The Little Prince" on the case back, creates a special model.
Functionally, a full range of features including chronographs are available, but what I particularly want to introduce is the "Pilot's Watch Timezoner Chronograph" with its dynamic bezel and 45mm size. This model adds a special world time display to IWC's signature chronograph with its 12-hour and 30-minute counters.
By rotating the bezel and moving the city name indicated on it to the 12 o'clock position, the hour and minute hands move in conjunction, instantly displaying the time in that city. Day and night can be distinguished by the 24-hour hand. The rotating bezel utilizes the mechanism from the "Aquatimer" diver's watch and is locked unless pushed from the front, preventing accidental operation. It is an innovative mechanism that allows for the display of times around the world with remarkable ease.
With this watch as a prime example, a diverse lineup of functional models has been constructed, showcasing considerable richness.
Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII
Case | Stainless steel
Diameter | 40mm
Thickness | 11mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal. 30110)
Water Resistance | 6 bar
Bracelet | Stainless steel
Functions | Date display
Release | Scheduled for April 2016
Price | ¥630,000
Pilot's Watch Mark XVIII "Petit Prince"
Case | Stainless steel
Diameter | 40mm
Thickness | 11mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal. 30110)
Water Resistance | 6 bar
Strap | Santoni calf leather
Functions | Date display
Release | Scheduled for April 2016
Price | ¥515,000
Pilot's Watch Timezoner Chronograph
Case | Stainless steel
Diameter | 45mm
Thickness | 16.5mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal. 89760)
Water Resistance | 6 bar
Strap | Santoni calf leather
Functions | Second time zone display (hour and minute hands display the time of the city at the 12 o'clock position via the rotating bezel, and the 24-hour hand indicates day/night), Chronograph (12-hour + 60-minute coaxial counter), Date display
Release | Scheduled for October 2016
Price | ¥1,515,000
Page02. Another Origin of IWC's Pilot's Watches
Contact
IWC
0120-05-1868
http://www.iwc.com/ja
IWC | International Watch Company
New Pilot's Watches Inherit a Legacy (2)
Another Origin of IWC's Pilot's Watches
The "Big Pilot's Heritage Watch," a successor to IWC's pilot's watches born in 1940, has also been introduced.
The roots of pilot's watches are said to lie in the era when pocket watches were fixed to the wrist or leg with a strap. The IWC "Big Pilot's Watch," introduced in 1940, also comes from this historical context. Among the models introduced this time, the "Big Pilot's Heritage Watch 48" is a modernly revised size, while this ultra-large model, the "Big Pilot's Heritage Watch 55," is an accurate reproduction of the original size.
Pursuing vintage design to its extreme leads back to the ultra-large size of pocket watches. Looking at this precious limited timepiece, one is reminded of this fact anew. The presence of a 55mm case size is more than just significant. It is a size that overwhelms even the wrists of Westerners. The luminous paint applied to the dial also exudes an antique-like atmosphere.
The riveted calfskin strap and the large, trapezoidal crown, operable even with gloved hands, are also faithful to the tradition of the "Big Pilot's Watch."
Although it is a rare model with only 100 units produced worldwide, it is highly recommended for fans of vintage-style watches.
Big Pilot's Heritage Watch 55
Case | Titanium
Diameter | 55mm
Thickness | 13.5mm
Movement | Manual winding (Cal. 98300)
Water Resistance | 6 bar
Strap | Calf leather
Limited Edition | 100 pieces (Boutique exclusive)
Release | Scheduled for October 2016
Price | ¥1,865,000
Page02. Expanding Size Variations for a Wider Customer Base
Contact
IWC
0120-05-1868
http://www.iwc.com/ja
IWC | International Watch Company
New Pilot's Watches Inherit a Legacy (3)
Expanding Size Variations for a Wider Customer Base
The trend towards larger watches has somewhat subsided in contemporary timepieces, and we observe a tendency for regular men's case sizes to converge around 40mm, as seen with the "Mark XVIII."
However, there are still persistent voices that find even this size large. Until the 1980s, men's sizes typically ranged from 34mm to 38mm, with the exception of some sports models. A size about 10% smaller than 40mm feels just right for Japanese wrists.
The "Pilot's Watch Automatic 36" is a watch that achieves this exquisite size.
It is a reproduction of the "Mark 11," the original "Pilot's Watch," which had a case diameter of 36mm. When worn, it is a size that fits comfortably on anyone's wrist. On the other hand, even by modern standards, it is not too large to be considered a women's fashion item.
With a thickness of 10.5mm, it is a size that will not interfere with cuffs, exuding a subtle elegance. The glossy dial colors can be matched with any fashion style. The strap options include a stainless steel bracelet or an alligator strap from Santoni. For example, the bracelet, with its beautiful combination of polished and satin finishes, can be worn with suits, office casual, or weekend casual attire.
It is a highly appealing, truly unisex watch suitable for all ages and genders. It is also recommended as a shared watch with a partner.
Pilot's Watch Automatic 36
Case | Stainless steel
Diameter | 36mm
Thickness | 10.6mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal. 35111)
Functions | Date display
Water Resistance | 6 bar
Bracelet | Stainless steel
Release | Scheduled for June 2016
Price | ¥630,000
Contact
IWC
0120-05-1868
http://www.iwc.com/ja








