WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH＆BASEL
March 30, 2015
Bell & Ross | A Return to the "Origins" of Military Watches: The Anticipated Classic Round Model Arrives
Bell & Ross
A Return to the Roots of Military Watches
The Highly Anticipated Classic Round Model Has Arrived.
Taking inspiration from military watches that purely pursued legibility, accuracy, and reliability, this is a simple and refined design that is instantly recognizable and appealing to both men and women, earning wide popularity among watch connoisseurs and fashion insiders alike. This is theBell & Rossbrand. This year, the brand's flagship "Vintage BR series" welcomes the long-awaited round model.
Reporting and text by Yasuhito Shibuya
The Benchmark: Military Watches with Simplified Functionality
While Bell & Ross enjoys solid support from the fashion industry, its実績 (jisseki - track record) speaks volumes in France, where it supplies and is favored by professionals in various fields, including pilots, astronauts, deep-sea divers, and bomb disposal experts. Few timepieces can match its functionality.
The creator of this functional yet fashionable design is Bruno Belamich, one of the founders and the consistent designer since the company's inception in 1991. His unwavering design inspiration comes from "military watches" – characterized by the complete absence of superfluous decoration on the dial, hands, and case, and primarily rendered in "black and white." Belamich has always stated that military watches represent the ideal timepiece. This philosophy is faithfully embodied in the "Vintage BR" series, launched in 2005 with the square-shaped "BR 01" model, inspired by aircraft cockpit clocks.
Inspired by 1930s Aviation Military Watches
This year, 2011, the "Vintage BR WW1," a new model that thoroughly pursues "vintage feel," has been introduced to this series, which has evolved into the "BR 01," "BR 02," and "BR 123" lines.
The design is inspired by pilot watches from the 1930s. In that era, wristwatches were just beginning to be produced, and their reliability was significantly lower compared to pocket watches. Therefore, pilots at the time used pocket watches and large wristwatches with straps attached to be worn on the wrist.
The new "Vintage BR WW1" revives these pocket watches and large wristwatches of the era with Bell & Ross's sophisticated modern sensibility. A total of five models have been announced, including pocket watches, all exuding an authentic antique atmosphere and detail. Yet, true to Bell & Ross, when you actually wear the wristwatch version, the "Vintage BR WW1 Power Reserve," featuring a power reserve indicator at the 7 o'clock position, the subtle vintage charm leaves a lasting impression. While military-style watches are often considered casual items, perhaps due to the unified black theme extending from the dial to the strap, this watch fits seamlessly not only with casual outfits but also with formal attire.
At this year's Basel Fair, in addition to this model, new additions to the square BR 01 series included the Airborne model with a skull motif and a model inspired by aircraft radar. Furthermore, the BR 03, a slightly smaller version of the BR 01, featured new models with cases, dials, and even rubber straps all in a beautiful trending blue. Numerous other attractive models were unveiled, appealing to both men and women.
However, for our OPENERS readers, we would first like to recommend the "Vintage BR WW1," which symbolizes this year's Basel Fair trend of "retro-vintage."
Vintage BR WW1 Power Reserve
The Pilot's Spirit of Aviation's Early Days on Your Wrist
The dial, with its bar indices and nostalgic Arabic numerals, is a chic black. The classic leaf hands moving above, and the onion-shaped crown on the case side, create an impressive vintage feel on this large wristwatch. The case is simple, just like a pocket watch, with rounded edges on both front and back. With simple lugs attached to the top and bottom for a leather strap, it perfectly captures the style of early pilot watches. It is powered by the reliable ETA Cal.2897 movement. In addition to this model, four other versions are available: a pocket watch, a big date, a big date power reserve, and one with a heritage dial for an even more vintage feel.
Automatic winding, 45mm diameter stainless steel case, black alligator strap, power reserve display, 50m water resistance, ¥409,500 (estimated price). Scheduled for release from November onwards.
Bell & Ross
http://www.bellross-japan.com/