TAG Heuer | A Vintage Collection Born from the DNA of Watchmaking's Golden Age, Inherited for the Future
WATCH & JEWELRY / SIHH&BASEL
March 30, 2015

TAG Heuer | A Vintage Collection Born from the DNA of Watchmaking's Golden Age, Inherited for the Future


TAG Heuer


Inheriting the DNA of a Golden Age in Watchmaking for the Future


A New Vintage Collection is Born


TAG Heuer has always been at the forefront of sports watch innovation, annually unveiling revolutionary concept mechanisms alongside new products. This year, too, they presented a concept model that pushes the boundaries of traditional measurement for mechanicalchronographs, while simultaneously responding perfectly to watch industry trends with a new collection of simple, classic designs that connect its own past to the future.


Reporting and text by Yasuhito Shibuya







Achieving 1/1000th Second Measurement with Mechanical Chronographs!


At an exhibition in Geneva in January, preceding the Basel Fair, TAG Heuer announced four new models, including the "Heuer Carrera Mikrograph 1/100th Chronograph," a mechanical model capable of measuring up to 1/100th of a second, marking their first such release in five years. While this collection alone is substantial, Basel held an even greater surprise. It was the "Microtimer Flying 1000 Concept Chronograph," a mechanical chronograph capable of measuring 1/1000th of a second—one-tenth of 1/100th of a second—further etching a new page in the history of mechanical chronographs. As its name suggests, it is a "concept," yet the prototype has already reached a level of completion where it operates smoothly on the wrist of CEO Jean-Christophe Babin. However, several challenges remain before commercialization. Nevertheless, this does not diminish the value of this historic innovation in any way. The issues will likely be resolved within a few years, leading to its product launch, much like previous concept models.


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A New Collection with an Appealing "Vintage Feel" Befitting Adults



On the other hand, the most noteworthy and recommended model among this year's new releases is the "Carrera Heritage Collection," comprising a three-hand model and a chronograph model. As the name "Heritage"—meaning "a legacy to be preserved for the future"—suggests, the design is based on the classic aesthetics of the "golden age of watchmaking." Specifically, the design draws inspiration from a 1945 two-counter chronograph. For instance, the Flinqué dial with its concentric engravings and the Arabic numeral indices inherit the style of this antique model.
However, perhaps due to the rigorous refinement of every element through a modern lens, these are not merely "retro" models welcomed by a select group of watch enthusiasts, such as collectors, as TAG Heuer might suggest. They have been crafted into models with a "vintage" design—one that is timelessly excellent—that any adult can appreciate.

Their calm atmosphere, distinct from the sporty standard "Carrera," is perfectly suited for formal occasions and classic suit styles.


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Heuer Carrera Microtimer Flying 1000 Concept Chronograph
The sight of the chronograph hand sweeping 10 times per second is breathtaking!


This groundbreaking chronograph achieves measurement in 1/1000th of a second for the first time in watch history, equipped with a separate regulating mechanism for the chronograph operating at an ultra-high speed of 3.6 million vibrations per hour (500Hz)—125 times faster than the 28,800 vibrations per hour (4Hz) of the watch's regulating mechanism. Similar to the "Heuer Carrera Mikrograph 1/100th Chronograph" announced in January, the movement incorporates two independent systems: one for the watch and one for the chronograph. As they operate independently, activating the chronograph does not affect the timekeeping accuracy. Technologically, the most intriguing aspect is the chronograph's regulating mechanism, co-developed with hairspring manufacturer Atokalpa, which consists of an ultra-high-frequency vibrating hairspring without a balance wheel, a special pallet lever, and escape wheel. Currently, 11 patents related to this model are pending. Commercialization requires further improvements, such as the introduction of new materials and extending the chronograph's measurable duration.

Automatic winding; movement measures 35.8mm in diameter and 7.95mm in thickness, composed of 354 parts. Power reserve for the watch is 42 hours; the chronograph's measurable duration is 150 seconds. This is a prototype under development, with no release date planned.







TAG Heuer 02



Carrera Heritage Chronograph
A New Standard Model with the Charm of Old-World Watchmaking Taste


This new standard chronograph, born from the DNA of TAG Heuer's many masterpieces from the Heuer era, embodies a vintage aesthetic. It features a Flinqué dial with concentric engravings. The polished applied indices are inspired by the Arabic numerals of the 1945 two-counter chronograph. The classic-style chronograph pushers and the applied TAG Heuer logo further enhance its vintage appeal. The silver dial shown here uses polished blue hands, reminiscent of old blued steel hands, creating a beautiful harmony of meticulously crafted classic details. Other dial colors include black. In addition to a stainless steel bracelet, an alligator strap is available at the same price. We highly recommend this watch to those who wear suits daily and are looking for an "adult chronograph."

The appeal of the three-hand model is identical. For those who do not require chronograph functions for daily use, the three-hand model is recommended. This model is also available with rose gold accents on the bezel and indices.

Automatic winding, 41mm stainless steel case and bracelet, see-through case back, 100m water resistance, ¥409,500 (estimated price). Scheduled for release in September.






LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan
TAG Heuer Division
Tel. 03-3613-3951