Unwavering craftsmanship and powerful stories. The 'all-stars of the watch world' are, after all, our foundation

PANERAI
TAG HEUER
OMEGA
BREITLING
CARTIER

Let's Talk Watches: The All-Stars Edition

You don't need to be an expert to enjoy wristwatches more. This "Clock Meeting" began with the intention of exploring the "first impressions" that emerge from actually handling the watches. That said, this time's theme is the "all-stars of the watch world," items everyone is familiar with. Unlike our usual meetings, the discussion delved deeper into conceptual territory... The participants this time are Creative Director MAEDA Yoichiro, OPENERS Director MATSUMOTO Hiroyuki, OPENERS Automotive Editor YAMAGUCHI Koichi, and OPENERS Watch Editor TSUCHIDA Takashi.

Talk by MAEDA Yoichiro, MATSUMOTO Hiroyuki, YAMAGUCHI Koichi, TSUCHIDA Takashi | Text by KOIZUMI Yoko

Designs Born from Functionality: The "Logical Beauty" to Admire

Let's Talk Watches: The All-Stars Edition | FEATURE

Takashi TsuchidaThe theme for the 5th Clock Meeting is "all-star models of the watch world." These five, in particular, have been at the forefront of watch popularity, gracing the pages of watch, lifestyle, and fashion magazines from the late 1980s, when mechanical watches regained popularity, through the 2000s.

PANERAI "Radiomir California"
TAG HEUER "Monaco"
OMEGA "Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer"
BREITLING "Navitimer B01 Chronograph 46"
CARTIER "Santos de Cartier"

These five models.

Yoichiro MaedaSo, this isn't the model that first made Panerai a hit, is it? The one with the sandwich dial and distinctive large numerals.

Takashi TsuchidaI chose the "Radiomir California" from the perspective that Panerai's origin lies in the prototype developed for the Italian Navy in 1936. It's a "divine model" for me because Rolex supplied the movements back then, and it features a unique dial that was popular in the 1930s.

Hiroyuki MatsumotoI also consider this model to be Panerai's origin. When Panerai relaunched in 1994, my information source was "Mono Magazine," so I have a strong impression from delving into the model's background. When you think of Panerai, keywords like "diver" or "Italian Navy" come to mind.

Koichi YamaguchiIn terms of background, all these models seem to have designs born out of necessity, don't they?

Creative Director Yoichiro Maeda

Yoichiro MaedaThese models have designs for a purpose, not just for design's sake. For Panerai, for example, the size is for ensuring visibility underwater, right?

Hiroyuki MatsumotoEven knowing that intellectually, I was surprised by how large it was when I first saw it.

Yoichiro MaedaIt's interesting how, despite the somewhat negative impression regarding its size, it quickly became a super popular brand. In my opinion, Panerai's "Radiomir" is a model that, along with Audemars Piguet's "Royal Oak," symbolizes the 2000s.

Takashi TsuchidaThe "story" behind the model was a crucial factor in driving its popularity. As a principle in lifestyle magazines, introducing the story was essential.

Yoichiro MaedaMy generation was heavily influenced by print media, so information like the "Speedmaster's" connection to the Apollo missions, or how the "Santos" was born in 1904 from an order by Alberto Santos-Dumont, naturally came to us. Flipping through magazines, I found myself effortlessly reciting the names of these five brands and their models. I believe the numerous anecdotes featured in magazines fostered a sense of aspiration for high-end mechanical watches.

Hiroyuki MatsumotoBack then, you'd go to a bookstore if you wanted information, but now, are wristwatches really necessary? That's the situation. Watches are everywhere, and there are other ways to tell time.

Koichi YamaguchiFor accuracy, nothing beats GPS or radio-controlled watches, and solar-powered watches don't need battery changes. An Apple Watch can even manage your health. Nevertheless, it's remarkable how these classic models have consistently competed and evolved alongside the changing times.

Takashi TsuchidaWhile the exterior remains true to its original design from a century ago, the internal specifications have dramatically improved. They now feature in-house calibers, and the finishing is exceptionally refined. Incidentally, the "Monaco" (TAG HEUER) was the first model in the collection to be equipped with the in-house developed "Caliber Heuer 02" movement.

Hiroyuki MatsumotoWasn't the "Monaco" originally for racers?

Takashi TsuchidaIt seems there wasn't that intention at the time of its development. It gained prominence after Steve McQueen wore it in the movie "Le Mans" (1971), but this model is historically significant as the "world's first square waterproof watch" and the "world's first automatic chronograph."

OPENERS Automotive Editor Koichi Yamaguchi

Koichi YamaguchiPersonally, I remember the "S/el" (1987-1999) series from TAG Heuer, which was incredibly popular in the past.

Hiroyuki MatsumotoIt had many two-tone models, didn't it?

Takashi TsuchidaI used to think the stainless steel and yellow gold two-tone combination was a bit too bold back then, but looking at the "Santos" two-tone models again now, they feel appropriately elegant and "just right." I particularly like how only the bracelet screws are gold.

Yoichiro MaedaThe "Speedmaster" has that incredible story about the Apollo missions, doesn't it?

Takashi TsuchidaIt's a cool story that it was recognized as being able to withstand use in space after rigorous testing. And now, with the co-axial escapement and Master Chronometer certification, the internals have also been significantly upgraded.

Hiroyuki MatsumotoEven among chronographs, I personally prefer the look of the "Navitimer." And its history of making aircraft cockpit instruments is fascinating.

Takashi TsuchidaIt makes you want to own a Breitling for aviation chronographs, doesn't it?

OPENERS Director Hiroyuki Matsumoto

Hiroyuki MatsumotoThe "Navitimer" was the world's first chronograph with a slide rule... announced in 1952, wasn't it? It's incredible that the printing technology for such fine indices existed 70 years ago. Of course, the movement needs to be highly accurate, but the markings must also be precise for it to function as an instrument.

Each of these models has a brilliant achievement, an impactful design, and a rich history. They possess a strength that makes them worthy contenders for a single watch purchase today.

Takashi TsuchidaNot many people can afford to buy multiple watches. Therefore, when purchasing, you absolutely don't want to make a mistake. In that regard, these five models offer a "certainty" of enduring value.

Hiroyuki MatsumotoThey have an unshakeable position, their roles are clearly defined.

Koichi YamaguchiDesigns born from necessity and forms created for function are not disposable. For example, the G-Wagen (Mercedes-Benz G-Class) was developed as a military vehicle and officially adopted by NATO in 1979. Its concept remains unchanged, retaining that rugged impression. While the interior and functions have undergone numerous minor changes, and one can imagine that few people actually drive it through deep mud or over rocky terrain, it is still equipped with differential locks (a function that locks the rotation difference between the left and right tires, used on rough roads). This conveys its origins as a military vehicle and its inherent pride.

I find them to be very attractive products, and I think it's wonderful to acquire such "authentic" items and use them for a long time.

OPENERS Watch Editor Takashi Tsuchida

Takashi TsuchidaThe desire to experience the stories that have been passed down through generations for oneself is something everyone possesses, isn't it?

Yoichiro MaedaLooking at these models, I feel that I'm still too young to feel nostalgic about them. People in their 30s and 40s might be able to say "nostalgic" more easily and honestly say "cool." But as someone in my 50s, I have immense respect, and as someone who was secretly captivated by certain stories, I do feel a sense of appreciation.

However, there's also a part of me that's critical of those feelings. That's why I'm being quiet today (laughs). But just because I'm critical doesn't mean I dislike them; I just can't bring myself to dislike them (laughs).

Koichi YamaguchiI respect the unwavering craftsmanship and the commitment to creating products that stem from necessity rather than marketing. On the other hand, I understand Maeda-san's hesitation towards powerful stories. However, since I don't have the same appreciation for watches or experience the world as Maeda-san does, I genuinely admire the origins and the steadfast approach of these star items as products.

Yoichiro MaedaBut the "Santos" is nice. It goes well with jeans and a knit sweater.

Hiroyuki MatsumotoPersonally, I think the "Santos" would suit artists like BTS or Twice. It feels like the most unisex model. However, the story behind the watch or the brand might not be necessary for that.

Yoichiro MaedaI'd actually be happy if younger generations, without knowing the story, simply said, "It's cool," or "I like it."

Hiroyuki MatsumotoThese five models formed the core, and they laid the groundwork for the resurgence of mechanical watches from the quartz era to the present. They taught us about watch functions, history, and the stories behind brands and models, so they are fundamentally important to us.

Koichi YamaguchiThey taught us everything, and we learned from them.

Yoichiro MaedaThese models have also led the way in how to wear watches as fashion. It's safe to say they are representative models that have supported the value of mechanical watches amidst the significant societal shifts that have engaged everyone from young people to adults.

Takashi TsuchidaAnd the approachability, the feeling that you might be able to afford it with a little stretch, is also appealing. Although prices have risen compared to the past, the products have been refined, and their quality is high. I believe long-selling models possess star quality.

Inquiries

Officine Panerai
Tel.0120-18-7110
http://www.panerai.com/

Inquiries

LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan TAG Heuer
Tel.03-5635-7054
https://www.tagheuer.com/jp/ja/

Inquiries

Omega Customer Service Center
Tel.03-5952-4400
https://www.omegawatches.jp

Inquiries

Breitling Japan
Tel.0120-105-707
https://www.breitling.com/jp-ja

Inquiries

Cartier Customer Service Center
Tel.0120-301-757
http://www.cartier.jp

Photo Gallery Photo Gallery

OPENERS

Unwavering craftsmanship and powerful stories. The 'all-stars of the watch world' are, after all, our foundation | FEATURE

PANERAI
TAG HEUER
OMEGA
BREITLING
CARTIER

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Designs Born from Functionality: The "Logical Beauty" to Admire

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PANERAITAG HEUEROMEGABREITLINGCARTIER

Let's Talk Watches: The All-Stars Edition

Designs Born from Functionality: The "Logical Beauty" to Admire

PANERAI
TAG HEUER
OMEGA
BREITLING
CARTIER