Let's Wear and Talk: Watch Conference. Part 2: Moon Phase Edition | FEATURES

From the top left, clockwise: OPENERS Director Hiroyuki Matsumoto, Editor & Creative Director Hiroyu

WATCH & JEWELRY / FEATURES
April 22, 2021

Let's Wear and Talk: Watch Conference. Part 2: Moon Phase Edition | FEATURES

BREGUET
A. LANGE & SÖHNE
OMEGA
HUBLOT
HERMÈS

Moon phases require intellect and refinement to appreciate. That's why they feel so contemporary.

In today's world, where functionality often takes precedence and specialized knowledge is required to enjoy watches, we find ourselves asking: isn't there more to the allure of a timepiece? We want to appreciate watches in a more fundamental way. Thus, we initiated "Clock Meeting," where we discuss our first impressions after wearing watches. For this second installment, our attendees are Creative Director Yoichiro Maeda, Editor & Creative Director Hiroyuki Horikawa, OPENERS Director Hiroyuki Matsumoto, and watch correspondent Takashi Tsuchida.

Talk by MAEDA Yoichiro, HORIKAWA Masaki, MATSUMOTO Hiroyuki, TSUCHIDA Takashi | Text by KOIZUMI Yoko

The Sophisticated Act of Admiring Natural Phenomena on Your Wrist

Takashi TsuchidaToday's topic is "moon phases," something I'm particularly interested in right now. To put it simply, it's a watch that displays the phases of the moon, allowing you to know its shape in the sky tonight.
Today's Agenda
・BREGUET "Classique 7137"
・A. LANGE & SÖHNE "Saxonia Moon Phase"
・HERMÈS "Arceau" Grand Lune"
・HUBLOT "Aerofusion Moonphase Titanium Diamonds"
・OMEGA "Speedmaster Moonphase"
A total of five watches.
Yoichiro MaedaThe greatest joy of a moon phase watch lies in its poetic worldview, doesn't it? In an era where we can easily tell the time, the practical function of knowing the moon's phase is virtually nonexistent. Yet, the very act of artisans pouring their passion into refining and developing this seemingly superfluous function is, I believe, what makes it poetic in today's world.
Takashi TsuchidaExactly. It's a form of sartorial elegance, a余裕 (yoyuu - composure) to appreciate natural phenomena on your wrist. I consider this to be the epitome of sophistication.
Hiroyuki HorikawaWhen I consider why I wear a watch, I see it as akin to a bracelet, a part of my fashion. From that perspective, the decorative aspect of the moon phase is very appealing. I believe the choice of moon phase design can reveal a lot about a person's character.
Takashi TsuchidaWatches are the ultimate accessory for crafting one's persona, after all.
Hiroyuki HorikawaFurthermore, even today, if someone says, "Tonight is a supermoon," we'll look up at the night sky. When I think about ancient poets composing verses while gazing at the same moon a thousand years ago, I feel a romance that transcends time and space.
Hiroyuki MatsumotoMoon phases have a certain chic, almost connoisseur-like appeal among mechanical watches. While it's a standard complication, it conveys a sense of mature sophistication and余裕 (yoyuu - composure).
Yoichiro MaedaConsidering that astronomical observation was once the sole objective source of timekeeping, the moon phase, which continues to display this on our wrists, ultimately brings us back to the theme of romance.
A. Lange & Söhne "Saxonia Moon Phase"
Ref | 384.029
Movement | Automatic (Cal.L086.5)
Moon Phase Accuracy | 1 day error in 122.6 years
Case Material | 18K White Gold
Case Diameter & Thickness | 40mm, 9.8mm
Strap Material | Hand-stitched alligator leather
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | ¥3,795,000 (incl. tax)
Hiroyuki MatsumotoThe "refinement" of a watch is also evident in the details, such as how the moon is depicted in the dial window and the choice of typeface, isn't it?
Hiroyuki HorikawaYou can discern the manufacturer's aesthetic sensibilities.
Yoichiro MaedaI believe moon phase watches are extremely contemporary, and the reason lies in the shift in male values. Historically, a certain rebellious spirit was a key factor in men's fashion, with physical strength and prowess long being the standard of coolness.

However, once a paradigm shift occurs, intellect and creativity are valued over physical strength and prowess. Simultaneously, fashion began to transition from the rugged to the intellectual.

The trend is shifting from the tough and macho to the elegant and poetic. In this context, a moon phase model requires intellect and sensitivity to be fully appreciated. That's why it feels so contemporary.

The Aesthetic Sensibility Encoded in Small Graphics

Yoichiro MaedaLooking at each model's depiction of the moon, A. Lange & Söhne's moon itself is very simple, yet the stars in the night sky are rendered with exquisite detail, capturing even their subtle radiance.

Hermès depicts the stars and moon abstractly, but in a way that feels so fantastical, reminiscent of the illustrations in "The Little Prince."

Breguet's moon has a textured surface, easily suggesting it was painstakingly hammered into shape by artisans. Omega, on the other hand, uses photographic images provided by NASA, conveying a sense of pride as the only brand to have actually been to the moon.
Hublot "Aerofusion Moonphase Titanium Diamonds"
Ref | 517.NX.0170.LR.1104
Movement | Automatic (Cal.HUB1131)
Case Material | Titanium (bezel set with 126 pave diamonds)
Case Diameter | 45mm
Strap Material | Alligator leather and rubber laminate
Water Resistance | 5 bar
Price | ¥2,380,000 (excl. tax)
Takashi TsuchidaIn terms of romance, poetry, and decorative appeal, I believe Hublot has put in a considerable effort. For a men's watch with a moon phase, diamonds, titanium case, and priced at ¥2.38 million, it's quite a good value.
Hiroyuki HorikawaIt's clear how the brand's positioning and identity are conveyed within these small graphics.
Hermès "Arceau" Grand Lune"
Movement | Automatic
Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date display; moon phase at 6 o'clock; moon and day display at 12 o'clock
Case Material | Stainless Steel
Case Diameter | 43mm
Strap Material | Alligator leather
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Estimated Price | ¥681,000 (excl. tax)
Takashi TsuchidaInterestingly, among these five watches, only the Hermès is under ¥1 million at ¥681,000 (excl. tax). The Arceau's stirrup-shaped lugs and the fantastical design of the galloping numerals are a perfect match for the moon phase.
Yoichiro MaedaIt's almost surprising it wasn't conceived sooner.
Hiroyuki HorikawaIn that sense, Hermès is quite charming, isn't it?
Yoichiro MaedaIts very existence is poetic.
Takashi TsuchidaEquestrian equipment is highly practical, yet the fact that it has been developed into such a luxurious brand must stem from a poetic philosophy.

The Romance of the Moon on Your Wrist, Gazing at the Moon

Takashi TsuchidaMr. Maeda, if you had to choose just one from these, which would it be?
Yoichiro MaedaA. Lange & Söhne's "Saxonia Moon Phase." It feels like an embodiment of intellect. It's flawless, elegant, and modern, especially with the black face. The balance is remarkable. I also appreciate its atmosphere, which is surprisingly un-Germanic in the best way.
Takashi TsuchidaIts design was cultivated in Glashütte, in the former East Germany. This aesthetic feels timeless and possesses a profound universality.
Breguet "Classique 7137"
Ref | 7137BR/15/9VU
Movement | Automatic
Case Material | 18K Rose Gold
Case Diameter & Thickness | 39 mm, 8.65mm
Strap Material | Alligator leather
Water Resistance | 30m
Price | ¥4,763,000 (incl. tax)
Hiroyuki HorikawaI find a sense of modernity in Breguet. While it has an authentic appearance, the more you look, the more you realize its flawlessness, distinct from A. Lange & Söhne, and how meticulously it's crafted. I'm astonished by its expressive power, which, despite its meticulous construction, doesn't appear overly assertive at first glance.

I also notice a difference in the pastoral depiction of the moon phase compared to other models. In addition to the moon's texture, the stars are rendered in vibrant colors. For me, I'd like to wear it as an everyday watch, perhaps with a slightly rolled-up sleeve on a t-shirt, much like wearing a G-Shock. I want to integrate it into my daily life.
Yoichiro MaedaAs I listen to you, I'm reminded that when wearing Breguet or A. Lange & Söhne, I'd want to wear nice shoes. On the other hand, Omega and Hublot feel more casual, suited for leather sneakers. Hermès sits somewhere in between, pairing well with both dress shoes and leather sneakers.
Hiroyuki MatsumotoBreguet would look particularly striking on someone with a strong sense of fashion. The contrast is appealing.
Hiroyuki HorikawaI agree.
Yoichiro MaedaSomeone wearing Comme des Garçons with a Breguet would look incredibly cool.
Takashi TsuchidaHow do you all approach Omega's timeless classic, the Speedmaster, from a fashion perspective?
Hiroyuki HorikawaFor us, it's been an object of admiration since our student days. We'd see our seniors wearing it and think how cool it was, how much we wanted one. However, there's a world of difference between the Speedmaster of that era and the modern models. It has a bold, youthful energy.
Hiroyuki MatsumotoPrecisely! Personally, I'm still drawn to Hermès. It has a charm that watch brands lack.
Takashi TsuchidaIt has a relaxed quality, doesn't it? Not overly rigid.
Hiroyuki MatsumotoThe asymmetrical design is excellent. And the dynamic feel of the numeral indices is superb.
Yoichiro MaedaIt's not the typical approach of a watchmaker. This design couldn't be achieved solely by pursuing legibility.
Hiroyuki MatsumotoExactly. I'd love to wear it with a navy corduroy suit, a yellow high-gauge turtleneck, and the Hermès on my wrist.
Yoichiro MaedaAnd then go to an izakaya in Shimokitazawa.
Hiroyuki MatsumotoOr perhaps a pachinko parlor (laughs). In spring, maybe a set of fine-gauge cotton pique...
Yoichiro MaedaLike Charvet fine gauge?
Hiroyuki MatsumotoYes, and a pique tie in a similar color, finished with Hermès.
Yoichiro MaedaThat sounds stylish. But then you'd end up wandering aimlessly, wouldn't you? (laughs)
Hiroyuki MatsumotoIdeally, I'd want to DJ in that style.
Hiroyuki HorikawaThat would be fantastic! So stylish.
Takashi TsuchidaI'd want to go out to a stylish bar wearing Hublot!
Yoichiro MaedaI'd put on the "Saxonia," retreat to a yet-unseen villa, and on a moonlit night, sit on the terrace with coffee, reading "In Praise of Shadows"!
Takashi TsuchidaWhat is that? (laughs)
Hiroyuki HorikawaIsn't that a bit too perfectly curated? The keywords, I mean (laughs).
Yoichiro MaedaThat's the kind of person I aspire to be. Because it's a cool watch. So I want to be cool, right? Hmm, wait a minute. Should I read "In Praise of Shadows" while listening to Debussy?
Takashi TsuchidaWow, you're still trying to improve your image (laughs). And so, for our next meeting, the topic will be "Value for Money Watches"!
Contact Information

Breguet Boutique Ginza
Tel. 03-6254-7211
https://www.breguet.com/jp

Contact Information

A. Lange & Söhne
Tel. 0120-23-1845
http://www.alange-soehne.com/

Contact Information

Hermès Japon
Tel. 03-3569-3300
www.hermes.com

Contact Information

LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan - Hublot
Tel. 03-5635-7055
http://www.hublot.com/

Contact Information

Omega Customer Center
Tel. 03-5952-4400
https://www.omegawatches.jp​​​

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