The world of watches, where technical explanations often take precedence, has become difficult to enjoy without specialized knowledge. But the appeal of watches isn't limited to that. We want to appreciate watches more primitively! So, we started a "Watch Meeting" where we actually wear watches and discuss our first impressions. The attendees for the third installment of this series are Toru Kitahara (Magazinist), Masaaki Horikawa (Editor & Creative Director), Koichi Yamaguchi (OPENERS' Automotive Editor), and Takashi Tsuchida (OPENERS' Watch Editor).

Takashi TsuchidaI've been in this industry for 25 years, but I've never actually done a watch feature focused on price. The reason is that watches cannot be judged by price alone. Timepieces have stories and romance in their background, and their appeal is unique to each.

However, the reason I've gathered watches under ¥500,000 this time is, in part, to convey that there are still wonderful models available in this price range, even as watch prices trend upwards. Of course, expensive watches have their reasons for being expensive. When you compare a ¥1,000,000 watch with a ¥500,000 watch, it's natural for the ¥1,000,000 watch to look more expensive.

But I believe there are people who love cars and don't want to spend too much on watches. I want to tell them that there are still options available. Therefore, this isn't about compromise, but about selecting only items that are on par with what one would cherish as their best attire, even if they cost under ¥500,000.

Koichi YamaguchiIn car terms, it's not like someone who owns a Ferrari also has an Abarth as a second car, but rather that this is their primary choice?

Takashi TsuchidaYes, all five watches I've prepared this time are ones I would personally wear as my primary choice.

Today's Agenda

From left:
Bell & Ross "BR V2-94 BLACK STEEL" ¥506,000 (incl. tax)
CARTIER "Tank Solo" ¥412,500 (incl. tax)
BVLGARI "Bulgari Bulgari Watch" ¥500,500 (incl. tax)
GRAND SEIKO "Heritage Collection SBGR309" ¥528,000 (incl. tax)
TUDOR "Black Bay Fifty-Eight 'Navy Blue'" ¥365,200 (incl. tax)

Masaaki HorikawaWhat's the reason for setting the limit at ¥500,000?

Takashi TsuchidaIt's related to the customary gift for a bride's return gift. The ¥500,000 mark is often a benchmark for such gifts, and I've heard that needs change depending on whether one crosses this line. Also, even when buying for myself, ¥500,000 feels like a psychological border.

Toru KitaharaUltimately, it's about whether you can judge it as "lovely" by your own standards. It's about being one and only for yourself. Looking at it that way, this TUDOR with its navy dial is indeed lovely.

Its vividness, the fact that it feels unique, and the distinctive impression it gives are valuable in themselves. It would also go well with denim, and its slightly smaller size is a plus!

Masaaki HorikawaNot everyone has thick wrists like people overseas, so the balance with the wrist circumference is good.

Koichi YamaguchiTUDOR's 'older brother' brand is ROLEX, right? But TUDOR seems more relaxed now, with a good sense of ease.

Masaaki HorikawaROLEX has a classic appeal, but TUDOR offers the enjoyment of contemporary novelties.

Toru KitaharaAlso, among the five, the casual feel of the strap is distinctive and catches the eye.

Takashi TsuchidaThis one is made of fabric. Originally from military watches, TUDOR pioneered the use of fabric straps on premium models. It's made by a workshop in the Saint-Étienne region of France that has been in operation for over a century. While there are leather straps and bracelets available in the same series, I'd recommend choosing the fabric for TUDOR.

Masaaki HorikawaSo, even the strap itself is unique?

Takashi TsuchidaCompared to other manufacturers, the weave is tighter. You mentioned earlier that it goes well with denim; this strap, like denim, develops a patina over time.

And functionally, it's a first-class diver's watch with 200m water resistance.

Toru KitaharaThis CARTIER is also nice.

Takashi TsuchidaThis is a model from the TANK collection. The first TANK appeared on the market in 1919. It was inspired by tanks, and the emphasized vertical lines on the case sides represent the tank treads.

Toru KitaharaAh, so that's why it's called TANK.

Koichi YamaguchiCARTIER has a long history and is a pioneer in watchmaking. Yet, at this price point, you can acquire that story, and the satisfaction level, including the design, is very high.

Takashi TsuchidaIn an era when elegant gentlemen wore watches, creating a dress watch with a tank motif was the height of avant-garde.

Masaaki HorikawaI feel it's the most symbolic. Even someone unfamiliar with watches would think, "They're wearing a stylish watch." It has that power.

Toru KitaharaAnd the craftsmanship in the fine details is also amazing. This is my first time seeing it up close, but the way the case back is screwed on is cool.

Masaaki HorikawaA sense of mechanics, perhaps.

Toru KitaharaCARTIER has an atmosphere akin to a BENTLEY, if we're using car analogies. It has a Jeep-like quality, and a DEFENDER-like feel, befitting the name TANK.

Takashi TsuchidaRegardless of the price range, CARTIER has consistently used blue steel hands and Roman numeral indices (though Arabic numerals have appeared in some recent models), giving it a powerful iconic presence.

Koichi YamaguchiThis BVLGARI strap is also well-made. It's rubber with a woven-like embossed pattern. When placed side-by-side, BVLGARI's approach to design feels distinctly different from the others.

Toru KitaharaThis is something that looks like a watch, isn't it? (laughs) I sense a context from accessories, and I can picture luxurious settings like terraces or poolside.

Koichi YamaguchiPerhaps while drinking champagne at dusk? (laughs) It's incredibly premium, but in terms of design... it seems to present itself as if it's doing nothing.

Masaaki HorikawaLike unglazed pottery.

Toru KitaharaYes, it's very intriguing. But the way it draws you in is different from the other models; it feels like it's calling out, "Hey, hey." Like it's saying, "What do you think of me?" If it were a woman, it'd be like, "Why don't you stop by?" (laughs)

It feels like a mysterious call, different from just making a statement.

Koichi YamaguchiAn older editor once told me that when he was in the passenger seat of a new model on a Ferrari test track, the test driver kept exclaiming "Bella macchina!" (beautiful machine). It wasn't about the performance, but simply about saying, "Isn't it beautiful!" (laughs) With BVLGARI, I feel the Italian national character.

Takashi TsuchidaAnd now, Toru Kitahara is holding our pride and joy, GRAND SEIKO.

Toru KitaharaThe expression of this watch has felt strangely captivating to me. I feel like I'm looking at a jewel.

Takashi TsuchidaIt's quite dazzling, isn't it? The intricate, multi-faceted cutting of the hands and indices causes them to sparkle with even the slightest light.

Toru KitaharaIt feels like looking at a diamond with many cuts.

Takashi TsuchidaIt aims to express beauty underpinned by the function of visibility, including the control of light. The design is standard, but it's a "deeply carved standard," with a face that's unforgettable once seen.

Koichi YamaguchiIt's as if light itself is being designed, and this is intentionally orchestrated. I feel a decorative quality that transcends functional beauty.

Takashi TsuchidaThe stoicism of the Japanese, evident even in the meticulous finishing of a single hairline. I believe this dedication surpasses that of Swiss manufacturers.

Now, the TUDOR, CARTIER, BVLGARI, and GRAND SEIKO introduced so far all feature in-house movements. Even in this price range, you can get models equipped with manufacture movements.

Masaaki HorikawaBVLGARI's recent advancements in movement development have been remarkable. With each new release, they achieve "world's thinnest." Their technological innovation is astounding, and they've won numerous prestigious watch awards. While the "Bulgari Bulgari" motif is classic, the brand's appeal lies in the addition of technical backing to this heritage.

Takashi TsuchidaAnd GRAND SEIKO's movements are incredibly focused on precision. COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) standards allow for a daily deviation of -4 to +6 seconds, but GRAND SEIKO achieves a deviation of -3 to +5 seconds.

Koichi YamaguchiSo, GRAND SEIKO has its own unique precision standards?

Takashi TsuchidaYes. For all mechanical models, they achieve precision that is 2 seconds tighter than COSC standards. This also reflects Japanese pride.

Takashi TsuchidaOur final watch is from Bell & Ross. Founded in 1994, it's a young brand that has garnered attention in fashion scenes worldwide. This Vintage series is a continuation of their debut model and represents the brand's origin.

Masaaki HorikawaI associate them more with their square case designs.

Takashi TsuchidaThis model uses a generic movement, which can tend to make the case thicker. However, Bell & Ross excels by embracing the vintage aesthetic, transforming the case thickness into a positive attribute.

Koichi YamaguchiSo, they're framing it within the context of its era and design inevitability.

Takashi TsuchidaExactly. At the time, this thickness was standard, and in that sense, it represents a timeless form.

Masaaki HorikawaIt gives the impression of a compact, densely packed face.

Toru KitaharaThis one probably appeals most to a boyish sense of wonder. With its mechanical feel and a dial full of seemingly complex details (laughs).

Koichi YamaguchiIt's the most classic, the most orthodox.

Masaaki HorikawaIt strongly evokes the image of a military watch that many people imagine. Including the size, which is neither too big nor too small.

Toru KitaharaIt's impressive how it doesn't feel large.

Takashi TsuchidaFurthermore, using a generic movement keeps maintenance costs down, making it a practical choice. This brand's designs are by French individuals who are very stylish and fashion-conscious. When people like that create something, it shows in the watch. It pairs well with contemporary clothing.

Masaaki HorikawaThe black bezel might also contribute to its compact appearance.

Takashi TsuchidaThe choice of aluminum for the bezel was also deliberate, I believe. Aluminum scratches easily, but that adds to the vintage feel.

Toru KitaharaYes, I understand completely.

Masaaki HorikawaIt's impressive how they've managed to integrate so many elements so harmoniously.

Toru KitaharaWhat I felt today is the saying, "God is in the details." Like the issue of light we discussed earlier, in reality, they've gone to extraordinary lengths with the minute details.

Masaaki HorikawaThere are lines all over the place, and the finishing is incredible.

Koichi YamaguchiThis meticulous attention to detail in every aspect supports the idea behind selecting these watches: they are not compromises, but rather statement pieces.

Takashi TsuchidaThese are watches that can be worn from day to night, suitable for various situations, from formal suits to outdoor activities.

Masaaki HorikawaThere's a strong sense of reality in this lineup. It's not about admiring expensive watches and keeping them in a display case, but about the tangible feeling of being able to wear them daily.

Toru KitaharaI've been reminded that watches, at their core, are about each individual finding their own satisfaction. Even if no one else understands, as long as there are hidden "special details" that only the wearer appreciates, that's enough. The satisfaction from CARTIER, the satisfaction from BVLGARI... each model offered its own unique sense of fulfillment.

Takashi TsuchidaSo, what will be the topic for our next meeting?

Toru KitaharaHow about "Boy Size"?

Masaaki HorikawaThere are more smaller models appearing these days, and wearing them makes one look intelligent.

Takashi TsuchidaThen, I'll prepare some masterpieces in "Boy Size"!