Let's Wear and Talk: Watch Conference. Part 4: Boys' Size Edition

AUDEMARS PIGUET
HUBLOT
JAEGER-LECOULTRE
IWC
BREITLING

Learn from Gainsbourg and Hemingway. Smaller watches appear more intelligent. And single-functionality is pure elegance!

While examining advanced functions is worthwhile, there's so much more to discover in a wristwatch. This is "Clock Meeting," where we discuss those "other" aspects. For the fourth installment of this series, we've convened Creative Director Yoichiro Maeda, Magazinist Toru Kitahara, Editor & Creative Director Masaaki Horikawa, and Watch Editor Takashi Tsuchida.

Talk by MAEDA Yoichiro, KITAHARA Toru, HORIKAWA Masaaki, TSUCHIDA Takashi｜Text by KOIZUMI Yoko

The Case for "Mini-Velo Watches" (Formerly Boys' Size)

Takashi TsuchidaThis time, we've gathered watches with the theme of "boys' size." However, it's interesting that no manufacturer actually markets watches as "boys' size."

So, where did the term come from? I believe it originated in the vintage market. Consequently, there's no precise definition for the size, but we generally consider case diameters around 36mm, 37mm, or 38mm.

Let's Wear and Talk: Watch Conference. Part 3: Boys' Size Edition | FEATURE

Today's Agenda
From left to right:
・BREITLING "Navitimer Automatic 38"
・AUDEMARS PIGUET "Royal Oak Chronograph"
・IWC "Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase 36"
・HUBLOT "Classic Fusion Titanium Racing Grey"
・JAEGER-LECOULTRE "Reverso Classic Medium Slim"

A total of five watches.

Toru KitaharaI always thought ROLEX was the one that called them boys' size.

Takashi TsuchidaROLEX excels in this size range, but Rolex itself never uses the term. Furthermore, until around the 1960s-70s, watches were much smaller than they are today. In the 1990s and 2000s, the trend for larger, thicker watches emerged, partly due to the development of larger movements, leading to an increase in watch sizes.

Yoichiro MaedaI once heard from a veteran watch dealer that there were two main reasons for the increase in movement size: one was to withstand mass production, and the other was to accommodate increased functionality.

Generally, when adding multiple functions to a watch, it's common to start with a simple movement and then add mechanisms like chronographs. However, it's difficult to incorporate functions without a larger base movement. Therefore, as functionality increased, movements had to become larger.

Toru KitaharaI see, I see.

Yoichiro MaedaCoincidentally, it was discovered that models over 40mm sold better in the Nordic, Russian, and American markets. At that point, the case size itself became important, not just the movement's size, eventually leading to models exceeding 50mm.

However, as a reaction against this trend, voices in Europe began to argue that excessively large watches were not elegant. The industry responded by gradually, gradually reducing sizes... or so I've heard.

Takashi TsuchidaWhile it might be subjective, I think slightly smaller watches have an effect of making the wearer appear more intelligent. In that sense, they are gaining attention now. It's like the vibe of someone skillfully riding a compact bicycle through the city.

Yoichiro MaedaI was involved in a magazine project once where we explored how simply reducing watch size could add an air of sophistication to the wrist. The inspirations for that feature were Serge Gainsbourg (※1) and Ernest Hemingway (※2). Looking at their photos, their watches were small and exuded a certain allure. Back then, all the stylish men wore small watches. Of course, to be precise, one should say, "Only small watches were available back then," but when you look at them now, they are incredibly cool.

※1 Serge Gainsbourg (1928-1991): French composer, lyricist, singer, film director, and actor.
※2 Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961): American novelist, poet, and journalist.

Toru KitaharaIsn't the first time most people get a watch around the time they start junior high school? That's about when you first encounter watches.

Masaaki HorikawaThat's right.

Toru KitaharaThat's why I assumed the category of "boys' size" existed. A 12-year-old boy is still developing, with a slender wrist, so a smaller watch would naturally be necessary. Regardless of whether "boys'" is the correct term, wasn't there a need for smaller men's models?

Masaaki HorikawaIn Japan, watches from the same brand are often displayed together in a showcase. However, when you visit a watch shop in Milan, you'll find watches from various brands arranged in a single case. This diverse display of brands actually highlights their individual characters, making them appear fresh and new.

You might be surprised, thinking, "This model can look like this too." Therefore, perhaps in this era, we don't need to strictly categorize watches into men's and women's, including boys' sizes. It would be interesting if, when buying a watch, you could simply ask, "Could I have a longer strap, please?"

Toru KitaharaIf they offered straps with extra holes or suggested, "This can be shared by a couple," or if a store said, "We can swap it for a longer strap" even for a women's model, it would greatly expand the possibilities for choosing a watch.

Yoichiro MaedaI also love smaller watches, like Toru Kitahara. I believe smaller sizes enhance elegance, and as you learn more about watches, your interest in the movement naturally grows. I'm particularly fond of seeing the intricate mechanics packed tightly within a watch case. Therefore, the appeal of a smaller watch lies in its size being a result of pushing the limits, rather than being enlarged for aesthetic or functional reasons.

Takashi TsuchidaI get that! That's probably why they look so intelligent.

Yoichiro MaedaMoreover, smaller watches can't really accommodate multiple functions, can they? They achieve their compact size by sacrificing the potential for added complexity.

Takashi TsuchidaThat sense of "I can only do this much" is precisely what makes it so pure and elegant.

Yoichiro MaedaIt's about understated confidence rather than trying to appear larger than life.

Toru KitaharaPerhaps the appeal of boys' sizes lies in their lack of multiple functions. Their simplicity is what makes them look so good. Indeed, the ones I used to think of as boys' sizes were all single-function, minimalist designs.

Takashi TsuchidaAmong these five watches, IWC is the only one marketed as a women's model. While the IWC strap is noticeably shorter, wearing the 36mm case on the wrist feels surprisingly comfortable. In fact, the slim strap reminds me of the vintage aesthetic associated with Gainsbourg.

Toru KitaharaIt's curious how it's labeled as women's. It seems like simply changing the strap length would resolve the issue.

Masaaki HorikawaLately, many models come with three or more straps, or feature quick-release systems for easy strap changes.

Toru KitaharaIf they came with straps of different lengths, they'd be perfect for sharing between partners.

HUBLOT "Classic Fusion Titanium Racing Grey"
Ref.｜565.NX.7071.LR
Movement｜Automatic (Cal. HUB1110)
Case Material｜Satin-finished and polished titanium
Case Diameter｜38mm
Strap Material｜Grey alligator with black rubber (lined)
Water Resistance｜5 bar
Price｜¥847,000 (incl. tax)

Takashi TsuchidaThe standard-sized "Classic Fusion" has a considerable presence, but in 38mm, it creates an intriguing sense of "Huh? Was it this small?" which makes it feel fresh.

Yoichiro MaedaThis strap is likely intentionally sized this way. I feel like men in Asian markets could wear this quite naturally. Since the birth of the "Big Bang" collection in 2005, HUBLOT has relentlessly pursued a massive aesthetic, becoming a globally competitive watch brand in a short period.

Smaller models stand in direct contrast to that identity, yet the design feels more condensed and balanced.

Takashi TsuchidaI prefer the larger "Big Bang," but for the "Classic Fusion," I think this size is just right.

Toru KitaharaIt has a design that looks like it was made in a small workshop.

Masaaki HorikawaMachikouba?

Toru KitaharaYou can really feel the dedication to meticulous craftsmanship, the desire to build something solid and robust. It resonates with me. While the others lean towards watch design, this one has a distinctly industrial design feel.

Yoichiro MaedaI see, that might actually be the case.

Toru KitaharaThere's a strong sense of precision – the need for perfect circles, for exact right angles – and the visible screws complement that aesthetic.

Takashi TsuchidaBreitling originally had the Navitimer model, and by removing the chronograph function, they achieved a smaller size. However, since Breitling is primarily known for its chronographs, I was initially surprised when this model was released, thinking, "Breitling removing the chronograph?" But it felt very elegant, perhaps representing how a sports watch brand approaches dressier styles.

Toru KitaharaThat's an interesting perspective. This is my favorite model in terms of color. The red accents against the silver dial are beautiful, and the fact that it's only on the tip of the second hand adds to its elegance. This is definitely a design I admire.

Takashi TsuchidaToru Kitahara, you tend to prefer classic watch styles, don't you?

Toru KitaharaIn that regard, I also favor the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso.

Yoichiro MaedaRectangular watches are wonderful, aren't they?

Masaaki HorikawaThe back of the reversible case can be engraved with initials. When flipped over, it also resembles a bracelet, which is quite interesting. The Reverso is truly an aspirational piece.

Takashi TsuchidaHmm? Why is it aspirational?

Masaaki HorikawaThe human body is fundamentally curved, and watches are often round. Within those curves, a square shape creates a pleasing sense of contrast. I believe this contrast lends it a certain sexiness or allure. And among these five watches, despite being particularly small, it commands a presence that I find admirable.

Toru KitaharaIt's a perfect design. However, wearing it with the case back facing outwards would be quite a challenging feat.

Yoichiro MaedaThe first model was born in 1931, so it's celebrating its 90th anniversary! That's a testament to its high level of perfection.

Masaaki HorikawaIt's not just a classic; it continues to be a leading presence in the watch world, which is remarkable.

AUDEMARS PIGUET "Royal Oak Chronograph"
Ref.｜26315OR.ZZ.1256OR.01
Movement｜Automatic (Caliber 2385)
Case and Bracelet Material｜18K Pink Gold
Gemstones｜40 brilliant-cut diamonds on the bezel (approx. 0.92 carats)
Case Diameter, Thickness｜38mm, 11mm
Water Resistance｜50m
Price｜¥7,260,000 (incl. tax)

Yoichiro MaedaAmong the five watches today, the "Royal Oak" has the next longest history. Who was the designer again?

Takashi TsuchidaMr. Gérald Genta (※3).

※3 Gérald Genta (Charles Gerald Genta, 1931-2011): Watch designer. He designed Audemars Piguet's "Royal Oak," Patek Philippe's "Nautilus," Bulgari's "Bulgari Bulgari," and also worked with Cartier, IWC, Omega, Universal Genève, and Seiko.

Yoichiro MaedaLike the Hublot, the "Royal Oak" feels more condensed in its 38mm version. The bracelet's width and overall proportions are designed for men, and it almost seems intentionally positioned as a boys' size.

Takashi TsuchidaI think the "Royal Oak" is wonderful. There's also the ultra-thin model, and the more casual "Offshore." The "Royal Oak" family is quite extensive. Among them, the 38mm collection, with its light impression, certainly deserves to be popular.

Given the high regard for classic pieces like the "Reverso" and "Royal Oak" this time, perhaps for our next discussion, we should gather models that have consistently maintained their classic designs.

Masaaki HorikawaLike the "Avengers" of the watch world?

Yoichiro MaedaThings whose value is absolutely unwavering.

Takashi TsuchidaThen, the topic for our next meeting will be "All-Stars."