From left to right: Takafumi Tsuchida, who covers watches for our magazine; Toru Kitahara, a magazin
WATCH & JEWELRY /
FEATURES
April 2, 2021
Let's Wear and Talk: Watch Conference. Part 1: Dress Watch Edition | FEATURES
PATEK PHILIPPE VACHERON CONSTANTIN BREGUET PIAGET JAEGER LECOULTRE
The Dress Watch: A Compact Expression of Horological Fascination, Today's Most Modern "Traditional"
In a world where technical specifications often take precedence, making watches inaccessible without specialized knowledge, we believe there's more to appreciating timepieces. We want to connect with watches on a more fundamental level. Thus, we're launching "Clock Meeting," a series where we discuss our first impressions after wearing watches. For this inaugural session, we have Creative Director MAEDA Yoichiro, Magazinist KITAHARA Toru, and watch correspondent TSUCHIDA Takashi. The theme: "Dress Watches."
Talk by MAEDA Yoichiro, KITAHARA Toru, TSUCHIDA Takashi | Text by KOIZUMI Yoko
What is the Condensed "Something" Felt from Stripped-Down Design?
TSUCHIDA TakashiToday's theme is "Dress Watches." To briefly recap the definition... well, there isn't a clear-cut one, is there? (Laughs) In the extreme, if it looks elegant, it's okay. That said, top brands are pouring significant effort into this category, resulting in a superb collection of models.
Today's Agenda PATEK PHILIPPE Calatrava 5227 VACHERON CONSTANTIN Traditionnelle Manual-Winding BREGUET Classique 7147 PIAGET Altiplano Ultimate Automatic Watch JAEGER LECOULTRE Master Ultra Thin Date
These five models.
MAEDA YoichiroLooking at them all together, they're all so handsome. Slim, beautiful, and comfortable on the wrist. In terms of fashion brands, I feel they're close to what's sought after by JIL SANDER. A rejection of excessive futurism or functionality... perhaps "meaningful simplicity" is the phrase.JIL SANDERA rejection of excessive futurism or functionality... perhaps "meaningful simplicity" is the phrase.
TSUCHIDA TakashiThe word "simple" is often confused with minimalism, but these aren't just simple; each detail is crafted with clear intent.
MAEDA YoichiroI believe it's a simplicity honed over time, respecting the history and conventions of watchmaking. Such stripped-down designs must be backed by quality; they convey a "condensed essence," as if forged from steel.
KITAHARA ToruFor instance, when JIL SANDER's Chester coat first appeared, the power of its material was immense, which was one of the reasons it captivated so many. However, most brands determine their materials, patterns, and construction based on price. On the other hand, there are brands where the desired product comes first, and price is secondary. When you delve into what makes such brands special, you find superior materials and craftsmanship, which ultimately establish them as luxury brands. I believe these five brands are capable of that kind of manufacturing.
TSUCHIDA TakashiDress watches are often thought to be unchanging, but they are actually a genre that is constantly being modernized.
Patek Philippe "Calatrava 5227"
Movement | Automatic Caliber 324 S C
Case Material | 18K White Gold
Case Diameter & Thickness | 39mm, 9.24mm
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | ¥4,356,000 (incl. tax)
Patek Philippe "Calatrava 5227"
Movement | Automatic Caliber 324 S C
Case Material | 18K White Gold
Case Diameter & Thickness | 39mm, 9.24mm
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | ¥4,356,000 (incl. tax)
Patek Philippe "Calatrava 5227"
Movement | Automatic Caliber 324 S C
Case Material | 18K White Gold
Case Diameter & Thickness | 39mm, 9.24mm
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | ¥4,356,000 (incl. tax)
TSUCHIDA TakashiThe black color scheme of PATEK PHILIPPE's Calatrava is quite avant-garde. This is because black originated from military watches. In the 1920s, when dress watches reached their zenith, formal wear symbolized purity with "white," and white dials were the rule. Thus, black in a dress watch occupies a diametrically opposite position.
Breguet "Classique 7147" Ref | 7147BB/29/9WU Movement | Manual-winding Caliber 502.3SD Case Material | 18K White Gold Case Diameter & Thickness | 40mm, 6.1mm Strap | Alligator Water Resistance | 3 bar Price | ¥2,563,000 (incl. tax)
TSUCHIDA TakashiFurthermore, BREGUET uses Arabic numerals, but from a traditional perspective, Roman numerals would be the standard. Here, the font is rendered classically to achieve a dressy finish, which I believe is a result of pursuing "classicism that fits the times."
KITAHARA ToruWatches like these possess a certain power. The moment they become yours, they have the effect of elevating you. For example, just as you might decide to wear TOD'S driving shoes because you're driving today, they can bring about a shift in your mindset.TOD'SThey can bring about a shift in your mindset.
Moreover, unlike suits, watches and cars can become uniquely yours. Especially for men, there's a tendency to seek personal standards through possessions, making watches items that can elevate your status. Viewed this way, acquiring such a watch is a sound personal investment.
TSUCHIDA TakashiWatches teach us many things, don't they?
KITAHARA ToruIndeed. Although, they all come with formidable price tags, don't they? (Laughs)
The Paradox of Thin Yet Three-Dimensional
TSUCHIDA TakashiAmong these five models, are there any that catch your eye?
Vacheron Constantin "Traditionnelle Manual-Winding"
Ref | 82172/000R-9382
Movement | Manual-winding Caliber 4400 AS
Case Material | 18K Pink Gold
Case Diameter & Thickness | 38mm, 7.77mm
Strap | Mississippi Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | ¥2,398,000 (incl. tax)
Vacheron Constantin "Traditionnelle Manual-Winding"
Ref | 82172/000R-9382
Movement | Manual-winding Caliber 4400 AS
Case Material | 18K Pink Gold
Case Diameter & Thickness | 38mm, 7.77mm
Strap | Mississippi Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | ¥2,398,000 (incl. tax)
KITAHARA ToruI'd lean towards VACHERON CONSTANTIN. Despite being thin, doesn't it have an incredible sense of depth? Thin and three-dimensional is quite a contradiction, and I was amazed it's been realized.
Also, PIAGET's appearance is quite punk! This model also has a curious three-dimensionality.
Piaget "Altiplano Ultimate Automatic Watch" Ref | G0A43121 Movement | Automatic Caliber 910P Case Material | 18K White Gold Case Diameter & Thickness | 41mm, 4.3mm Strap | Alligator Water Resistance | 2 bar Price | ¥3,586,000 (incl. tax)
TSUCHIDA TakashiThe successor to this model is an astonishingly thin 2mm case, which won a prestigious international award last year.(※)PIAGET continuously challenges the limits of thinness, having introduced numerous world-firsts, and still holds the record for the world's thinnest mechanical wristwatch. You can feel the heritage and ambition.
*In November 2020, the "Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch" received the "Aiguille d’Or" (Golden Hand Award), the highest honor across all categories, at the 20th Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
KITAHARA ToruOn the BREGUET dial, is that a scratch?
TSUCHIDA TakashiThat's BREGUET's signature hidden signature, a mark against counterfeiting.
MAEDA YoichiroSo that's what it is. OMEGA and CARTIER have them too. I'm surprised it's written in such small characters.
KITAHARA Toru(Takes a photo, zooms in on the screen) Wow, it says "Breguet"! That's incredible!!
MAEDA YoichiroSmaller details do add to the elegance, don't they?
TSUCHIDA TakashiAs a reaction against the recent trend of thick, large watches, new models are generally becoming thinner and smaller. This has given rise to the concept of "shared watches" with partners, leading to new ways of using watches.
MAEDA YoichiroIndeed, as long as the strap length can be adjusted, it's perfectly fine for women to wear men's watches.
KITAHARA ToruIf I were to choose one I'd want, it would be the BREGUET. ... It's simply beautiful. I now understand why I'm drawn to BREGUET. I love vintage items found in French flea markets, and BREGUET has that same aura. It resonates with my lifestyle.
MAEDA YoichiroFor me, it's the PATEK PHILIPPE Calatrava. They really outdid themselves on this one. The concept of offsetting the rotor(※)is brilliant, and the smoothness of its movement is astounding... Looking closely, the precision is almost maddening.
*The axis of the automatic winding rotor is intentionally offset from the center. This is one solution for effectively utilizing limited space.
Jaeger-LeCoultre "Master Ultra Thin Date"
Ref | 1238420
Movement | Automatic Caliber 899/1
Case Material | Stainless Steel
Case Diameter & Thickness | 39mm, 7.8mm
Strap | Leather
Water Resistance | 5 bar
Price | ¥880,000 (incl. tax)
Jaeger-LeCoultre "Master Ultra Thin Date"
Ref | 1238420
Movement | Automatic Caliber 899/1
Case Material | Stainless Steel
Case Diameter & Thickness | 39mm, 7.8mm
Strap | Leather
Water Resistance | 5 bar
Price | ¥880,000 (incl. tax)
Jaeger-LeCoultre "Master Ultra Thin Date"
Ref | 1238420
Movement | Automatic Caliber 899/1
Case Material | Stainless Steel
Case Diameter & Thickness | 39mm, 7.8mm
Strap | Leather
Water Resistance | 5 bar
Price | ¥880,000 (incl. tax)
TSUCHIDA TakashiAmong these, the JAEGER LECOULTRE is the most accessible at ¥880,000, primarily because it's stainless steel. The collection underwent a full model change two years ago, and it represents the brand's vision of the most modern dress watch today.
KITAHARA ToruIts cost-performance is so high it might sway your decision, but perhaps its design performance is truly the highest. It's like the answer you'd get if you asked someone to create the ultimate Oxford button-down shirt that stays within the bounds of tradition.
It's both conservative and progressive.
MAEDA YoichiroJAEGER LECOULTRE has a personality that isn't afraid to discard things it deems outdated. In the past, the Reverso Squadra (square case model), introduced in 2006, was abruptly discontinued because "a Reverso must be a Reverso." Perhaps that decisiveness is reflected in their designs.
TSUCHIDA TakashiJAEGER LECOULTRE is unique in that it develops new movements for its new models. While it's common for brands to use existing movements across different models, this company does things differently.
They have the capability, so don't judge them solely on price.
KITAHARA Toruthe first WalkmanIt reminds me of the first Walkman. Younger readers might not realize, but it wasn't the iPod that first made music portable outdoors; it was the Walkman.
I imagine the developers created the mechanism first and then designed the exterior around it. The resulting "lunchbox" design was the epitome of functional beauty, and I still consider it one of Sony's finest achievements.
MAEDA YoichiroI agree.
Watches Over Air Jordans
KITAHARA ToruHow would one style these dress watches?
MAEDA YoichiroAs I've mentioned JIL SANDER multiple times, pairing them with simple, minimalist fashion works well. The choice of footwear can be tricky... but I think simple black shoes, rather than dad sneakers, would be elegant.
TSUCHIDA TakashiUNIQLO's "+J" collection would also be a good match.
KITAHARA ToruIt works if the brand consistently produces orthodox pieces, but there are few such brands nowadays.
In that case, vintage clothing might be the way to go. If paired with a worn-out Champion letterman jacket and Levi's 501 Big E jeans, I'd think, "Impressive." After all, acquiring those two items requires both time and money, making it the ultimate luxury style today. It would surely resonate with those who understand.
TSUCHIDA TakashiA single watch can complete a sophisticated style; they have significant impact. While dress watches might seem similar and simple to some, they are a profound genre with vastly different concepts and expressions. I truly hope people will pay attention to them.
KITAHARA ToruI hear the prices for "Air Jordans" are soaring again, reaching ¥600,000 or even ¥1,000,000. To that, I emphatically say: don't spend more than ¥30,000 on Air Jordans! (Laughs) Young people, if you're going to spend money, this is undoubtedly the way to go!
While the models introduced today are quite high-end, there are many excellent watches in the ¥600,000 to ¥1,000,000 range, similar to Air Jordans. I want people to discover the appeal of good watches.
MAEDA YoichiroIn that case, I'm interested in automata, a genre that's often overlooked in the watch world. Van Cleef & Arpels' "Poetic Complications" series, like the "Midnight Pont des Amoureux Watch",Midnight Pont des Amoureux Watchis truly fascinating. However, these models are produced in very limited quantities, making it difficult to even see them in person, let alone try them on. So, they might not fit the purpose of this "Wear and Talk" meeting (laughs).
TSUCHIDA TakashiMoonphase watches also have a romantic appeal, don't they?
MAEDA YoichiroRomantic watches are certainly appealing. But the market valuation for this genre isn't quite there, is it? It's a shame, considering they represent the pinnacle of human ingenuity.
TSUCHIDA TakashiThen, in our next meeting, let's discuss moonphase watches!
Ref | 7147BB/29/9WU
Movement | Manual-winding Caliber 502.3SD
Case Material | 18K White Gold
Case Diameter & Thickness | 40mm, 6.1mm
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | ¥2,563,000 (incl. tax)