All negative aspects of existing divers watches are eliminated. This is why it was chosen for the GPHG! In-depth review of the Pelagos FXD

TUDOR

TUDOR's new "Pelagos FXD" (released in late 2021) has once again ranked in the GPHG "Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève," the Oscars of the watch world. In 2022, it was chosen for the Divers' Watch category. Why did this model garner such attention? Takaishi Tsuchida, who covers watches for OPENERS, offers his own, highly personal take on the brand's unique charm.

Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi

Lightness is Right: Comfort and Unmistakable Individuality

The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, the most prestigious awards ceremony in the watchmaking world, selects outstanding models each year. This year, all the winning models were unveiled on November 10th.https://www.gphg.org/horlogerie/enThe full list of winners can be found

here.hereIt's a parade of niche models that would impress any enthusiast. It's immediately clear how much the watch world has evolved and diversified. This is the culmination of mechanical watches' steady accumulation of value since recovering from the quartz crisis of the 1970s, but I have a slight reservation.

They're fine as heirlooms, but not really meant for everyday wear...

It's like comparing them to a First Growth Bordeaux from the Haut-Médoc region – wines that you buy now but can't drink for years. They're too precious to wear casually. Of course, they're also too expensive for the average office worker. While I don't oppose the bifurcation of the watch market, what I'm interested in are wines that are delicious to drink right now, and watches that can be enjoyed immediately.

From that perspective, as I looked again at the award-winning models, the TUDOR "Pelagos FXD" (winner in the Divers' Watch category for 2022) truly shone in my eyes.

What is the "Pelagos FXD"?

All negative aspects of existing divers watches are eliminated. This is why it was chosen for the GPHG! In-depth review of the Pelagos FXD | TUDOR

The lug design is distinctive. The name FXD comes from the fact that the spring bars are fixed, providing a clean structure for attaching the strap.

The case back bears the French Navy's "M.N." initials and the year of manufacture. Please refer to the linked article for this episode. What I want you to notice in this image is the thickness of the bezel, which slightly overhangs the side of the case. The bezel's frame is thicker to facilitate operation of the bidirectional rotating bezel. Did you realize that this bezel thickness contributes to its strong initial impression?

TUDOR was founded in 1926 by the founder of Rolex, with a philosophy of robustness comparable to Rolex. They even shared some parts in the past. Although it now stands as an independent brand, its manufacturing is backed by Rolex, ensuring high reliability. Furthermore, its cost performance is outstanding. Since 2015, it has boasted its own in-house movements, achieving high precision certified as chronometers.

While there's a solid manufacturing background that commands respect, the "Pelagos FXD" is particularly well-executed! First, when you put it on your wrist, it's incredibly light. Diver's watches are built for robustness, so they tend to have thick cases and large diameters. Consequently, a stainless steel model feels heavy on the wrist. With a stainless steel bracelet, the weight doubles – it's practically a wrist workout.

Of course, that's part of the diver's watch aesthetic, so it's not necessarily a negative, but the era of "fashion is suffering" is long gone. It's better to wear something comfortable. That's why titanium divers' watches are actually very practical. Oh, you think there are plenty of titanium divers' watches out there? Think again – they're surprisingly rare among premium brands.

The Pelagos's fabric strap features a navy blue with a single gray stripe. While sporty, its beautiful sheen lends it a refined quality that prevents it from being overly casual.

It fastens with Velcro, making it easy to put on.

This is the included rubber strap. Its textured surface resembles woven fabric. The buckle features the brand's logo. *The actual color is closer to blue.

Moreover, the "Pelagos FXD" strap is made of fabric, making it even lighter. Additionally, its less formal feel compared to a leather strap gives it a more contemporary vibe. It's lighter than a metal bracelet, more relaxed than leather, and more refined than rubber. This is likely due to the exquisite sheen of the woven fabric's textured surface. It's sporty yet not overly casual. Incidentally, this model cannot be fitted with a metal bracelet, which is also a deliberate choice.

I was once taught that one should wear something with a higher degree of formality to avoid offending others in business settings. However, I now feel that being slightly more humble than the other person, without being disrespectful, shows greater consideration. It's not about using honorific language, but rather humble language. The TUDOR fabric strap strikes that perfect balance. The navy color that comes as standard is surely suitable for all occasions.

The indices with Luminova are crisp white. While TUDOR's standard diver's "Black Bay" series features round indices, the Pelagos has square ones. These are functional details befitting a 'tactic watch'.

The bezel is conically beveled, making it comfortable to operate by placing a finger on top. This allows for quick countdown measurements.

The navy blue dial is also clean and appealing. Just as navy bags are versatile with both black and brown shoes in business attire, this watch works with various styles. Moreover, the Pelagos's navy blue has a vibrant hue. The crisp white square indices stand out prominently.

Furthermore, it has the compelling French Navy story that appeals to watch enthusiasts (refer to the linked article for details), and its movement is a chronometer-certified in-house caliber. Indeed, TUDOR perfectly meets the demands of the modern era.

Although it has a titanium case, it features sharp edges similar to the stainless steel series. However, the top of the crown guard and the corners of the lugs are carefully chamfered and polished to prevent injury.

It's not too classic, not too sporty. Its impression is neither too stern nor too casual. It's an excellent student, yet understated. While adhering to the context of classic watches, it possesses a unique narrative. Its distinct brilliance, different from Rolex, appears sophisticated. Consequently, it's highly popular, and in fact, it remains scarce in stores...

As someone who prefers watches that don't scream 'look at me,' I consider it a truly excellent item.