The TIMEX ATELIER collection's "Marine M1a." ¥176,000 (tax included).
WATCH & JEWELRY /
FEATURES
February 17, 2026
A decade-long endeavor, driven by a passion for watches—Designer Giorgio Galli recounts the journey behind the creation of TIMEX ATELIER.
TIMEX
“I actually check my phone to see the time. But I find myself looking at the watches other people are wearing. How the light hits them, how they appear. I can’t help but notice those things,” Giorgio Galli says with a bashful smile. The designer, who has been at the forefront of watch design for over 30 years, speaks of an impulsive fascination—a deep affection for watches that transcends professionalism.
Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi
TIMEX's Path Diverges from "Million-Dollar Luxury"
Hailed by American Esquire magazine as “one of the coolest watch brands of 2025,” TIMEX saw its new TIMEX ATELIER collection, launched first in the U.S., sell out its initial production run instantly. This success is not merely a victory of pricing strategy; it captures a subtle shift in the watch market.
“A generation is emerging that feels embarrassed to choose a watch simply because it’s expensive or famous. This trend is particularly noticeable in America,” Galli points out.
As Creative Director for the Timex Group, he oversees design for all brands, including Timex. After studying industrial design in Italy and the U.S., he transitioned into watch design via Lucasfilm. In the early 1990s, he served as Director of the Swatch Design Lab, contributing to its popularity. Since then, he has also designed for other watch brands, earning him a reputation as a legend in the industry.
Rising manufacturing costs and currency fluctuations continue to drive up the prices of Swiss-made watches. Meanwhile, attention is turning to the behavior of a generation questioning the daily wear of high-priced timepieces. They seek not status symbols, but an intrinsic understanding of a watch's value.
“For TIMEX, the TIMEX ATELIER collection is a bit pricey. Still, at around 200,000 yen, it’s realistic. We want people to enjoy watches, even if they aren’t million-yen pieces.”
Galli’s concept of a “realistic price” doesn’t simply mean inexpensive. It signifies an accessible price point that pursues the essential appeal of a watch without compromise.
“We’re launching first in America, and customers are truly understanding the new value TIMEX has defined. There’s a response to the inherent quality at an accessible price.”
The balance of price, design, and quality—and the assurance that this value is convincing—the success of TIMEX ATELIER is likely a testament to the brand’s sincere approach being recognized in an era where attitudes toward watches are evolving.
Giorgio Galli's Journey and the Redefinition of TIMEX
Galli describes his entry into the watch industry as a “strange coincidence.” After studying design in Italy and the U.S., he opened his own design office in Milan in 1990. Shortly after, he dove into the world of watch design as the Creative Director for Swatch, during a period when Swatch was aggressively expanding globally.
He continued to work in the watch sector. In 1997, he sold his office to TIMEX Corporation and joined as the Creative Director for the TIMEX Group.
However, the path to the creation of TIMEX ATELIER was, in fact, a long one.
This was because TIMEX, over its 170-year history, had established an image of being casual and affordable. “It’s easy to lower the price range of a brand’s products, but conversely, raising the price range requires a long process to change consumer perception.”
About a decade ago, Galli began a series of experiments aiming for “affordable luxury.” This led to the birth of the S series: “S1,” “S2,” and “S2 Titanium.” These were experimental models to test whether TIMEX could reach a new price point.
The S2, in particular, was well-received, proving that people were willing to pay more for good design. Inheriting the design language of the S2, while capturing the essence of watchmaking with a modern touch, and creating something with the appeal of a watch at a TIMEX-appropriate price point—this was the starting point for the ATELIER collection.
Design to Be Discovered Slowly
When discussing the design of TIMEX ATELIER, Galli repeatedly emphasizes one phrase: “Design to be discovered slowly.”
At first glance, the Marine M1a presents a classical look reminiscent of early diver’s watches. However, upon picking it up, wearing it, and living with it daily, one notices the thoughtful details: the ring-shaped indices, the complex structure of the skeletonized case, the separate crown guard, and the curved sapphire crystal.
Galli wasn't referencing one specific watch. His inspiration came from early diver’s watches of the 1950s in general.
“What was important wasn’t just copying old watches, but capturing the essence, the DNA, the spirit of that era. The adventurousness, the spirit of exploration, and the functional beauty that early diver’s watches possessed. My goal was to reinterpret these elements in a contemporary context.”
Galli describes this style as “New Classic.” It’s the result of designing a classic diver’s watch through a modern lens, rather than simply reissuing an old model.
“The goal isn’t to be cheap, but I consider it a realistic price range. It’s not about compromise; it’s about having appeal without being ostentatious. That’s where the pride, the dedication of a watchmaker, comes in.”
Two Faces: Marine M1a and GMT24 M1a
The first wave of TIMEX ATELIER features two models.
The “Marine M1a” is a classic diver’s watch suitable for daily wear, featuring a 41mm skeletonized stainless steel case, 200-meter water resistance, and a rotating ceramic bezel, ensuring durability. It is powered by a Swiss-made CATENA SA automatic movement. The price is 198,000 yen (tax included) with a stainless steel bracelet, and 176,000 yen (tax included) with an NBR rubber strap.
The “GMT24 M1a” has a slightly more compact 40mm proportion. Its defining feature is the box-shaped sapphire crystal without a bezel. It includes a 24-hour GMT function, with an orange hand indicating the time in a different time zone. It is powered by a Swiss-made Landeron 24 GMT automatic movement. The price is 275,000 yen (tax included) with a stainless steel bracelet, and 253,000 yen (tax included) with an NBR rubber strap.
Common to both models is the systematic naming convention, M1a, which stands for “Model 1 Automatic.” Both also feature bracelets with a new mechanism for tool-free adjustment and are available with premium NBR rubber straps.
“Today, those who choose a mechanical watch are making a conscious decision. It’s not a matter of practicality; it’s a statement of values.”
In the digital age, analog, mechanical, and items incorporating elements of handcraftsmanship hold a special value. Wearing a mechanical watch is an affirmation of those values.
A decade-long endeavor, driven by a pure love for watches, has revealed a smart, natural way to choose irreplaceable value in the age of technology—without pretense.
The story woven by Galli and TIMEX has only just begun.
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