The Two Concepts Pursued by Roger Dubuis | ROGER DUBUIS
Watch & Jewelry
November 9, 2015

The Two Concepts Pursued by Roger Dubuis | ROGER DUBUIS


ROGER DUBUIS


“Astral Skeleton” and “Excalibur”


Two Concepts Pursued by Roger Dubuis (1)


In 2015, Roger Dubuis declared “Skeleton Year” as the theme for its collection. In January, at Geneva, under the concept of “Astral Skeleton,” they astonished buyers and journalists by completely shattering the conventional image of “skeleton = classic” in the watchmaking world, led by the double tourbillon of the “Excalibur Spider.” Approximately eight months later, at Watches & Wonders, they further pursued this theme with models including a pocket watch, captivating attendees.

Text by SHIBUYA Yasuhito




Bold Skeleton Design Meets Maison's Pride





Roger Dubuis pushed the boundaries of skeletonization technology, extending it beyond the baseplate to the case, hands, and flange (the frame housing the movement and dial) in the “Excalibur Spider.” This groundbreaking model, symbolizing their technical challenge, was unveiled in Hong Kong. It features the “Quatuor” mechanism, announced in 2013 – the Maison's proprietary mechanism for reducing gravitational errors using two sets of four balance wheels oscillating at four times the speed of a conventional wristwatch – within a skeletonized pocket watch.

In addition to this unique regulating mechanism, which integrates the beats of four balance wheels with five differential gears, this pocket watch is also groundbreaking in its skeletonization. The skeletonization extends to the case, inner bezel, hands, and crown. And of course, it bears the Geneva Seal, meaning its assembly adheres to traditional craftsmanship. This contrast is also fascinating.


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The design of this entire pocket watch, including its stand and chain, is as impactful and revolutionary as its advanced skeletonized mechanism. Including the visible Quatuor movement, which forms part of it, it is perhaps the most avant-garde creation in watchmaking history. It possesses a boldness akin to futuristic Gothic architecture. This timepiece alone is worthy of being highlighted as a topic of the watchmaking world this year.




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Excalibur Spider Pocket Time Instrument
Case | Titanium
Diameter | 60mm
Thickness | 19.6mm
Movement | Manual winding (RD101)
Vibrations | 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power Reserve | Approx. 40 hours
Functions | Quatuor mechanism, power reserve indicator
Limited Edition | 28 pieces
Release Date | Undetermined
Price | ¥58,200,000 (excluding tax)



WATCHES & WONDERS 2015 NEW MODEL



215_2Excalibur Star of Infinity

RDDBEX0512_FrontExcalibur Brocéliande

215_2Excalibur 42 Automatic

dammy



Inquiries


ROGER DUBUIS


Tel. 03-3288-6640


http://www.rogerdubuis.com/







ROGER DUBUIS


“Astral Skeleton” and “Excalibur”


Two Concepts Pursued by Roger Dubuis (2)



Double Tourbillon Meets Diamonds in a New Dimension





The RD01SQ, a skeletonized double flying tourbillon movement that connects two flying tourbillons via a differential mechanism to pursue high precision, is positioned at the pinnacle of Roger Dubuis's numerous movements, both in terms of technology and design, making it one of the Maison's strongest icons. In January in Geneva, the double tourbillon model of the “Spider” equipped with this movement was featured as the flagship of the collection. The new model unveiled at Watches & Wonders this time is an evolution of this piece.


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As the name “Star of Infinity” suggests, a large star set with 34 diamonds, totaling approximately 0.96 carats, shines above the double flying tourbillon. Furthermore, the case is set with 246 baguette-cut diamonds, totaling approximately 12.64 carats, which also emit a brilliant sparkle. The combination of the skeletonized movement's structure and the open space expresses an infinite universe where stars shine. This model embodies Roger Dubuis's new dimension, where function and decoration are fused at an even higher level.

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Excalibur Star of Infinity
Case | White gold
Diameter | 45mm
Thickness | 15.5mm
Movement | Manual winding (RD01SQ)
Vibrations | 21,600 vibrations/hour x 2
Power Reserve | Approx. 50 hours
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Functions | Double flying tourbillon
Limited Edition | 8 pieces
Release Date | Undetermined
Price | ¥74,800,000 (excluding tax)



WATCHES & WONDERS 2015 NEW MODEL





215_2Excalibur Spider Pocket Time Instrument


RDDBEX0512_FrontExcalibur Brocéliande

215_2Excalibur 42 Automatic

dammy



Inquiries


ROGER DUBUIS


Tel. 03-3288-6640


http://www.rogerdubuis.com/







ROGER DUBUIS


“Astral Skeleton” and “Excalibur”


Two Concepts Pursued by Roger Dubuis (3)



Feminine Skeleton Inspired by the Legend of King Arthur





The “Legend of King Arthur,” set in 5th-century Britain and established as a chivalric romance in the 15th century, is one of the most famous and grand heroic fantasies in the West. Roger Dubuis has previously created watches inspired by this legendary world. Furthermore, the collection name “Excalibur” itself refers to the holy sword wielded by King Arthur, the protagonist of this legend. Thus, this story also forms the basis of the brand's worldview. The model presented at Watches & Wonders this time is the latest addition, a feminine skeleton watch.


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The design motif is the ivy leaf, which symbolizes strong affection, longing, loyalty, and eternal devotion, and remains green in all seasons, found in the mystical Forest of Brocéliande, a significant setting in the legend. Pink and purple semi-precious stones add vibrant colors as autumnal leaves, entwined with the leaf as it integrates with the tree. The bezel is set with 60 baguette-cut diamonds totaling approximately 1.84 carats, the lugs with 48 baguette-cut diamonds (approximately 0.82 carats), and the crown with a single rose-cut diamond (approximately 0.42 carats). Luxuriously set gemstones add splendor to the legendary world.

RDDBEX0512_Front



Excalibur Brocéliande
Case | Rose gold
Diameter | 42mm
Thickness | 11.66mm
Movement | Manual winding (RD01SQ)
Vibrations | 21,600 vibrations/hour x 2
Power Reserve | Approx. 50 hours
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Functions | Flying tourbillon, skeleton
Limited Edition | 3 pieces
Release Date | Undetermined
Price | ¥36,000,000 (excluding tax)



WATCHES & WONDERS 2015 NEW MODEL



215_2Excalibur Spider Pocket Time Instrument

215_2Excalibur Star of Infinity

215_2Excalibur 42 Automatic

dammy



Inquiries


ROGER DUBUIS


Tel. 03-3288-6640


http://www.rogerdubuis.com/







ROGER DUBUIS


“Astral Skeleton” and “Excalibur”


Two Concepts Pursued by Roger Dubuis (4)



Stone Dial Evoking the Legend of King Arthur


Among the new models announced in Hong Kong, this “Excalibur,” the simplest, is also one inspired by the legend of King Arthur. Its distinguishing feature is the stone dial, finished with hand-engraved craftsmanship.

This originates from an episode in the legend, “King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table,” where the magical sword “Excalibur,” the symbol of Arthur's legitimacy to rule Britain, is enshrined within a stone after the king's death, to be passed down to a future British monarch.

The texture of a stone dial is entirely different from other materials. It resembles a historical structure built from stone. For avid readers of the King Arthur legend, it is a timepiece that reveals more depth the longer one gazes at it. It is also a piece that showcases Roger Dubuis's characteristic bold use of materials.

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Excalibur 42 Automatic
Case | Rose gold
Diameter | 42mm
Thickness | 10.18mm
Movement | Automatic winding (RD622)
Vibrations | 28,800 vibrations/hour
Power Reserve | Approx. 52 hours
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Limited Edition | 188 pieces
Release Date | Undetermined
Price | ¥4,220,000 (excluding tax)



WATCHES & WONDERS 2015 NEW MODEL



215_2Excalibur Spider Pocket Time Instrument

215_2Excalibur Star of Infinity

RDDBEX0512_FrontExcalibur Brocéliande

dammy



Inquiries


ROGER DUBUIS


Tel. 03-3288-6640


http://www.rogerdubuis.com/