By the way, do you like game meat? How about venison? I love it.

I occasionally hear people say, "I don't really like game meat." While personal preference is entirely subjective, I can't help but feel a little sorry for them, thinking they've never had truly delicious game meat. My apologies for the unsolicited concern.

I also like deer as animals. Don't you find animals with long faces endearing? Perhaps it's because I have one at home (a miniature dachshund), which makes me think that way (laughs). And I love venison too. I still remember the deliciousness of that red meat I had at HOSHINOYA Fuji in February 2020, which possessed both wildness and elegance. The experience at that time is described inthis article.

In the autumn of 2022, OPENERS visited HOSHINOYA Fuji again. The executive chef had changed since my last visit, and this time, I was thrilled to meet Masahiro Takiguchi, a veteran hunter with over 40 years of experience, from whom HOSHINOYA Fuji sources most of its game meat, including venison. With a mix of excitement and anticipation, I made my way to HOSHINOYA Fuji.

HOSHINOYA Fuji, which opened in October 2015 with "glamping" as its central theme even before the term became widely known, is situated on a slope between 830m and 930m above sea level. The approximately 100m elevation difference across the grounds accommodates various facilities, including guest rooms, dining areas, and the Cloud Terrace.

The cabin-style rooms, all with views of Lake Kawaguchiko, are indeed wonderful! The minimalist design, based on white, enhances the scenery outside the window. A distinctive feature is that a significant portion of the cabin space (estimated to be about one-third to one-quarter) is dedicated to the terrace.

The dinner, the highlight of glamping, is served in the outdoor space "Forest Kitchen," surrounded by trees. I chose the "Game Meat Dinner" again, as I did two years ago, but the direction was quite different this time. While the concept of guests finishing the preparation at their table remained, the impression was that it had become even more luxurious.

The menu we had this time was as follows. The menu on the day only listed the ingredients, but I'll add the details here for clarity.

Amuse-bouche: Wild Boar and Mushroom Tart
Cold Appetizer: Charcuterie Smoked on the Spot with Fruit Salad
Soup: Bear Meatball and Mushroom Soup
Main Course: Venison Stewed in Blueberry Sauce
Rice: Matsutake Mushroom Rice with Braised Venison
Dessert: Apple and Sweet Potato Tart

Isn't the amuse-bouche cute? It's so refined that it wouldn't be out of place at a French restaurant in Nishi-Azabu. Wild boar pancetta is placed on top of the tart, with edible maple leaves as a garnish!

The legendary hunter mentioned earlier, Mr. Takiguchi, apparently also forages for mushrooms when he goes into the mountains. He says this allows him to truly experience the "now" of the forest. The "Game Meat Dinner" menu is designed to follow this hunter's lifestyle, actively incorporating ingredients that the game animals might eat, such as acorns and wild grapes.

Now, let me introduce Masahiro Sugawa, who became the executive chef of HOSHINOYA Fuji in December 2020. Mr. Sugawa, who had been involved in cooking at the facility since its opening, analyzes the current state of glamping resorts: "When we first opened, there were only a handful of glamping facilities, but recently, the number has increased significantly."

Amidst this trend, Mr. Sugawa and his staff reconsidered what guests seek from HOSHINOYA Fuji in this era.

"When people hear 'glamping,' many imagine dome tents or barbecues. However, we felt that at HOSHINOYA Fuji, there should be a more luxurious glamping experience that can only be found here. Therefore, we have re-evaluated our approach to make it more like a glamping resort and to pursue more gourmet elements in our cuisine."

Let's return to the course.

The next dish was a cold appetizer of charcuterie. While the contents vary depending on the season and availability, we were served venison pastrami and a ham called "bierschinken," made with wild boar and venison. The pastrami, I was told, is smoked on the spot.

Adorned with autumn fruits like persimmons and pione grapes, the presentation was as captivating as an Impressionist painting. The vibrant red sauce, made with beets, beautifully represented autumn leaves. The natural sweetness of the fruits gently complemented the saltiness of the charcuterie.

The soup was also incredibly delicious (laughs). "The consommé base uses parts not typically used in cooking, such as deer bones, out of respect for using the entire animal," says Mr. Sugawa.

At the table, we heated the "soup of life" and, once it was simmering, added meatballs made from a mixture of wild boar and bear. The mushrooms—maitake, king oyster, wood ear, and shimeji—were not mere garnishes. While feeling the grand scale of the land's essence, the sexy and profound flavor brought tears to my eyes.

And now, the moment we've been waiting for: the main course, venison. Needless to say, this local delicacy was the highlight of our trip. Similar to last time, it was pre-prepared and finished at the table by reheating.

After a while, a staff member instructed, "Please add the sauce to the Dutch oven." The sauce, made from stewed pione and blueberries, retained its fruity texture and was rich and juicy. The venison, a beautiful cut of red meat that I hesitated to touch, was as delicious as expected. And why does it cook so lusciously?

"Venison loin is mostly lean meat. If cooked normally, it becomes dry, so we cook it slowly at a low temperature and then sear the surface at the end. More importantly, the quality of game meat, especially venison, depends on the hunter's skill. That's why building relationships with reliable hunters is crucial," says Mr. Sugawa.

The rice dish was Matsutake mushroom rice, cooked in game meat consommé and enriched with butter for depth.

First, we enjoyed it as is, and then, at the end, we topped it with braised venison and poured broth over it for an ochazuke-style finish. Such entertaining flavor variations are truly a delight.

The dessert, an apple and sweet potato tart, was described as "a reinterpretation using apple pie ingredients. When you put it in your mouth, it becomes apple pie (laughs)." Ah, I see! I thoroughly enjoyed this stylish, glamping-style apple pie.

"There are still many things we want to do. Our facility is blessed with outdoor space, so we want to utilize it more, and we also want to develop dishes centered around bonfires. We aim to further pursue sustainability and the theme of cherishing life," said Mr. Sugawa, speaking of endless possibilities. Perhaps it was because my stomach and heart were full, and I was in a bit of a dreamlike state, that I saw him as a forest spirit.

Or perhaps I was completely enchanted by the magic of the forest. I could even hear the calls of deer from somewhere.

"This forest is particularly beautiful as we head into winter. The crisp air, the silent night sky filled with twinkling stars, and especially the faint outline of Mt. Fuji – it was truly moving." As I listened to Mr. Sugawa's words, filled with a sense of happiness, the night deepened.

*Images of hunting scenes will follow on the next page. Please be advised.