Hoshinoya Tokyo's Nippon Cuisine Reaches New Heights with a New Head Chef! | TRAVEL
LOUNGE / TRAVEL
June 12, 2024

Hoshinoya Tokyo's Nippon Cuisine Reaches New Heights with a New Head Chef! | TRAVEL

TRAVEL | HOSHINO RESORTS Tokyo

Stay for the Cuisine: Embracing Gastronomy Over Daily Chores

For those living in or near Tokyo, do you ever book a stay in the city just for a meal? You might think, "Huh? Why, when I can just go home?" But here, there's a menu that can only be experienced by staying overnight. It's the Nippon Cuisine offered by Hoshinoya Tokyo. We want you to immerse yourself in a meal, just as you would while traveling, even within Tokyo. It feels like a message from Hoshinoya. Though located in the heart of Otemachi, stepping inside transports you to the unique world of Hoshinoya. When you dedicate ample time to engage with the "cuisine" here, you'll experience a wondrous sensation, as if embarking on a journey beyond time and space.

Photographs by OHTAKI Kaku | Text by HASEGAWA Aya | Edit by TSUCHIDA Takashi

A Gourmand's Dialogue: Editor Tsuchida and Writer Hasegawa

TsuchidaSo, Hasegawa-san, how was it this time? We revisited Hoshinoya's pinnacle dinner, "Nippon Cuisine," offered in Tokyo.
HasegawaIt's actually been two years since we last experienced "Nippon Cuisine." Since the Hoshinoya Tokyo dining room is a space for overnight guests, it's not often we get the chance to visit, even though it's right in the middle of Tokyo's Otemachi. Time just flew by, didn't it?
The private dining rooms at Hoshinoya Tokyo's restaurant. In addition to six tatami-floored private rooms, there are four table seats and counter seats. As Hoshinoya Tokyo is in a ryokan style, guests can enjoy their meals in their stay-at-home attire.
The entrance to the Hoshinoya Tokyo dining space. The walls resemble geological strata. The dining area is intentionally located on a basement floor without windows, creating a setting designed for complete immersion in the meal.
These are the table seats, offering a semi-private dining experience.
TsuchidaWhat struck me is that this is like an "auberge" in Tokyo. There's meaning in confronting Hoshinoya's meticulously crafted course head-on, and for that, staying overnight is essential, without worrying about going home. The quality of the dishes is so high, unfolding one after another.
HasegawaThe term "destination restaurant" has become quite common in recent years, hasn't it? There are more and more accommodations that function like auberges, centered around their restaurants. Food lovers don't hesitate to travel to remote areas just to visit a specific restaurant or taste a particular chef's cuisine (laughs). After tasting "Nippon Cuisine" again after so long, I'm convinced that Hoshinoya Tokyo is a place worth staying at purely for the dining experience.
Ryosuke Oka, Head Chef at Hoshinoya Tokyo. In 2020, he became Head Chef at Hoshino Resorts Towada, and Chef of the French restaurant "Sonore." He assumed his current position in 2023. Based on French culinary techniques, he creates dishes that bring out the natural flavors of ingredients in ways that belie their simple appearance.
TsuchidaAnd last year, Mr. Oka, who drew many gourmands to Aomori, became the new Head Chef at Hoshinoya Tokyo.
HasegawaHoshino Resorts Towada is the only resort hotel nestled along the Towada River. I was truly surprised when I heard that Ryosuke Oka, who had been showcasing his skills at the hotel's renowned restaurant "Sonore," would become the Head Chef at Hoshinoya Tokyo!
TsuchidaMr. Oka is a star chef representing the Hoshinoya brand. His memorable dishes left a strong impression on me. His dedication to researching not only local ingredients but also traditional cooking methods is remarkable. That's why the dishes, which I've never seen or heard of before, are so delightful.
HasegawaIt's natural to be curious about what kind of cuisine Mr. Oka will create in Tokyo. We've become quite fans of his, haven't we? (laughs)
TsuchidaHoshinoya Tokyo's dinner presents Japanese ingredients using French culinary techniques to introduce them to the world. What Mr. Oka has newly added is the concept of the diverse food culture that converged in Edo, fostered by the "Sankin-kōtai" system. In essence, it's a grand plan to expand the style of discovering regional classical cuisine, cultivated at Towada, to encompass all of Japan!
HasegawaI haven't said the word "Sankin-kōtai" in a while. It's that system where feudal lords traveled between Edo and their domains on a rotating basis (I just Googled it ♡). Along with the lords' movements, the food cultures of various regions gathered in Edo, and conversely, Edo's food culture spread to the regions. To recreate this in present-day Tokyo is truly monumental.
TsuchidaIt seems Mr. Oka is designing the menu with advice from Edo cuisine researchers. The result is the realization of numerous classical dishes that have fallen into disuse today due to their excessive labor. By pursuing these without regard for time efficiency, it's like time-traveling to the Edo period, creating unique dishes unlike any other.

A Collection of Dishes Unearthed from the Past: Every Bite is a Surprise

TsuchidaHere's a look at the main dishes. Although presented this way, the fact that they are fundamentally French cuisine is astonishing! Plus, there's a hidden menu, making it incredibly satisfying in both quality and quantity. By the way, which dish left the biggest impression on you?
"Nippon Cuisine ~A Gathering of Gastronomy~" Spring 2024 Course

Turnip Sushi (Trout, Turnip, Amazake)
Seared Bonito (Bonito, Garlic, Chives)
Kurozukuri (Squid, Cabbage, Cheese)
Buen Sushi (Rice, Seafood, Seasonal Ingredients)
Seasonal Fish with Kuzu Sauce (Legumes)
Beef with Karashi Renkon (Chives, Lotus Root)
Ginger and Pomelo
Ikinari Dango (Sweet Potato, Mugwort)
Turnip sushi. Using trout, which is in season in spring, marinated and wrapped in turnip, this appetizer is as colorful as the blooming flowers. The dressing, paired with amazake, is light and refreshing.
Buen Sushi. The fragrant rice, carefully cooked in dashi broth, combined with the slightly bitter and refreshing aroma of wild vegetables, fills the mouth. When paired with the accompanying shellfish sauce, the spring-like umami of the dashi gently envelops the bitterness of the mountain vegetables.
HasegawaEach dish was a star in its own right, but "Buen Sushi" was particularly impactful in both appearance and taste. I had never heard of "Buen Sushi" before this. Apparently, the term "buen" (unsalted) implies that the fish is fresh enough to be eaten raw without salting. In an era without refrigeration, eating fish without salting was rare and highly prized. It's a regional dish from Kumamoto, traditionally served at weddings and celebrations. The beauty of Mr. Oka's modern interpretation of "Buen Sushi"... And it doesn't stop at just one serving of "Buen Sushi"!
TsuchidaAlthough called sushi, the rice is presented like a dashi-infused risotto. Its profound flavor, combined with the richness of butter, creates an acrobatic harmony with the fresh seafood.
HasegawaIt transforms into a different dish when paired with the shellfish sauce prepared right in front of the guests. First, you enjoy the "Buen Sushi" on its own, and then at some point, you add the sauce to change the flavor. It's highly entertaining, and both versions are incredibly delicious (laughs).
TsuchidaThe sauce, made with four types of shellfish to fully extract their umami, is truly a "flood of umami." The paired wine was, if I recall, an Assyrtiko from Greece. It possessed umami, salinity, and acidity, transforming into a sauce in the mouth. Just thinking about it makes my mouth water.
HasegawaWaves crashed in my mind, like a "whoosh!"

HasegawaThere were many other interesting wines and exquisite pairings. Starting with an amuse-bouche, a meticulously prepared dish of eel and soba, a classic Edo specialty, reimagined with French culinary techniques. It conveyed Mr. Oka's determination to "express Edo's culture through modern cuisine."
TsuchidaIt's essentially "eel galette wrap." However, the subtle sweetness of the new onions is used masterfully, whetting the appetite. To wash it down, a lightly sparkling wine from Takeda Winery, a long-established producer in Yamagata. Its ancestral method, rather than secondary fermentation in the bottle, is gentle on the stomach lining, hinting at the grand saga about to unfold.
HasegawaFrom the very beginning, such perfectly matched pairings were presented so generously that I felt a sense of awe, wondering "What could possibly come next?" It paired wonderfully with the gentle saltiness of the domestic caviar on top, and I finished it in no time.

TsuchidaThe pairing of bonito with Nebbiolo was also superb. The combination of red-fleshed fish and red wine is often suggested these days, but by downplaying it with a casual DOC from Piedmont, it provided a well-balanced start to the course.

Sommelier Yoshida-san previously worked at "Yucawatan" in Karuizawa until last year. Yoshida-san's pairings were truly impressive. Pairings can multiply the culinary experience several times over depending on the sommelier's skill, and at Hoshinoya Tokyo, you should definitely opt for the pairings. Furthermore, Mr. Yoshida is reportedly planning to offer a selection of cheeses, primarily Japanese ones, in the future! The excitement never ends (laughs).
Beef with Karashi Renkon. Slow-cooked over charcoal to lock in the umami, the flavor intensifies with each bite. Accompanying this is a lotus root cake inspired by Kumamoto's regional dish, "Karashi Renkon."
HasegawaYes, while marveling at the exquisite pairings, it was also enjoyable to hear the stories behind each one. As I might have mentioned before, I consider high-quality pairings to be a form of live entertainment. And Mr. Yoshida is even considering offering a selection of Japanese cheeses in the future! The anticipation is endless (laughs).
TsuchidaIf it were just about serving expensive wines, it would simply be a matter of price. But Mr. Yoshida's brilliance lies in his ability to incorporate global trends early on. He presents wines from obscure regions and unexpected combinations, which would surely satisfy even the most discerning wine connoisseurs.
On this particular day, to complement the main beef dish, there was even a horizontal tasting of Premier Cru vineyards from Morey-Saint-Denis (a renowned appellation in Burgundy, France)! They certainly cover the fundamentals and don't disappoint. However, due to the nature of fine sourcing, the specific vintages offered may vary.
TsuchidaMoreover, the pricing for Hoshinoya's pairings is, to put it mildly, a bargain. The current option offers 8 pairings for 13,200 yen. For 4 pairings, it's 9,075 yen (prices include tax and service charge). These are prices that wine lovers would weep with joy over.
HasegawaIt's well-known among us that Hoshinoya's alcohol pricing is modest (laughs). Even the drinks in the refrigerator at other facilities are reasonably priced, suggesting they don't focus on profiting from alcohol. It's a blessing for us who enjoy drinking (laughs). Therefore, if you enjoy alcohol, you should definitely order the pairings. And the fact that they offer a 4-pairing option, not just 8, is excellent!
Ikinari Dango. A regional sweet from Kumamoto, reimagined in the style of the traditional French pastry Baba au Rhum. Dried sweet potato, cooked and then wrapped in gyuhi infused with amazake, is baked within a baba dough. You can enjoy a layered flavor profile with the aroma of liquor, the bitterness of mugwort, and the mellow sweetness of the dried sweet potato.

The breakfast the next morning was equally delicious! A supreme menu to awaken your senses.

Awakening Breakfast

Small Bowls: Mozuku Seaweed in Vinegar Dressing,
Goshiki Ganmodoki with Ankake Sauce, Tomato and Myoga with Spicy Dressing,
Cucumber and Citrus in Vinegar Dressing, Winter Melon and Shrimp Simmered Dish

Nine-Piece Assortment: Takuan Pickles, Ami Tsukudani (simmered whitebait), Beef Shigureni,
Wasabi Pickles, Flaked Salmon, Nori Tsukudani (simmered seaweed),
Umeboshi (pickled plum), Winter Melon in Light Pickle, Sweet Simmered Kintoki Beans

Grilled Dish: Salt-Grilled Beltfish

Steamed Dish: Dashimaki Tamago (rolled omelet)

Meal: Pot-Cooked Rice, Miso Soup
(Carrot, Asparagus, Atsuage Tofu, Zucchini, Eggplant)
TsuchidaSpeaking of which, since Mr. Oka took over as head chef, the breakfast has also been revamped. It's called "Awakening Breakfast." Previously, it was only served in rooms, but now it's also available in the B1F dining room, the same as dinner. And it's magnificent! It was the most dazzling breakfast of my life.
Hasegawa"Awakening Breakfast" to harmonize mind and body! It was incredible. Just like dinner, it immediately ranked high in my "Breakfast Worth Traveling For Championship"!
TsuchidaThe sheer number of dishes is astounding. What truly impressed me was that none of them seemed to be pre-prepared.
HasegawaI found myself hesitating over which dish to eat next for the first time in a while. And I was so overwhelmed by the number of dishes and the deliciousness of each one that I was speechless.
TsuchidaAs you eat the pot-cooked rice, you finish with ochazuke (rice with tea or broth). What a luxury.
HasegawaEven the condiments were delicious, each one individually. Just like dinner, nothing was half-hearted; everything was done with full commitment.
TsuchidaGiven this spread, I imagine some people might want to have a drink in the morning.
HasegawaIf you're staying for multiple nights, it would be wonderful to have a drink with this breakfast and then go back for a leisurely nap.
TsuchidaThat's the true pleasure of staying overnight. Fully engaging with the "cuisine" and then resting your stomach in your room.
The hot springs are, of course, exclusive to guests. This means they are generally not crowded, allowing for a relaxing bath.
HasegawaHoshinoya Tokyo's slogan is "A Japanese Ryokan in a Tower." And yes, there are hot springs too!
TsuchidaAh, that's right! Enjoying an open-air bath while gazing at the sky in the middle of the city is incredibly refreshing. While the bath in the room is nice, I personally prefer the large public bath.

HasegawaThe "Ochanoma Lounge" on each floor is also not to be missed. Since you can only use the lounge on your designated floor, there are fewer people, allowing you to relax in a calm and tranquil environment. Since the pandemic, staff will brew tea for you during certain hours.
TsuchidaIt's remarkably quiet here. You can use it as an extension of your own room, enjoying the best of both private and public spaces. The original concept of Hoshinoya Tokyo seems to have truly returned after the pandemic.
HasegawaLooking down from the window, it's undeniably the Otemachi business district, yet the sense of being in a different world is overwhelming. Combined with Mr. Oka's cuisine this time, I even felt a sense of transcending time (laughs).
TsuchidaHoshino Resorts' concepts are wonderful across all their facilities, but "Hoshinoya Tokyo" is particularly groundbreaking. It would be a shame to reserve this ultimate experience only for international visitors.
HasegawaAbsolutely! Being able to journey through time in 21st-century Tokyo is exciting for us Tokyo residents too. I believe it's an auberge worth staying at just for the food, and one of Tokyo's finest Japanese ryokans.
The first-floor entrance of Hoshinoya Tokyo. Once you take off your shoes here, you'll be barefoot from then on.
This is a standard room. The area behind the partition on the left houses the bathroom facilities.
"Nippon Cuisine ~A Gathering of Gastronomy~" Spring Menu Overview
Price | 33,880 yen per person (includes tax and service charge, accommodation fee separate)
Location | Hoshinoya Tokyo Dining
Reservations | Required. Accepted until the day before via the official website (https://hoshinoresorts.com/ja/hotels/hoshinoyatokyo/).
Target Audience | Hoshinoya Tokyo Guests
Notes | Menu content and ingredients may change depending on the situation.
"Awakening Breakfast" Overview
Capacity | 10 groups per day
Price | 9,680 yen per person (includes tax and service charge, accommodation fee separate)
Location | Hoshinoya Tokyo Dining
Reservations | Required. Accepted until the day before via the official website ([https://hoshinoresorts.com/ja/hotels/hoshinoyatokyo/).
Target Audience | Hoshinoya Tokyo Guests
Notes | Menu content and ingredients may change depending on the situation.
HOSHINO RESORTS
Address | 1-9-1 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Phone | 050-3134-8091 (Hoshino Resorts Reservation Center)
Number of Rooms | 84
Check-in / Check-out | 15:00 / 12:00
Rates | From 112,000 yen per night (per room, includes tax and service charge, meals separate)
Access | 10-minute walk from the North Exit of Tokyo Station Marunouchi. 2-minute walk from Otemachi Station (Tokyo Metro) A1, C2c exits.
Contact Information

Hoshino Resorts Reservation Center
Tel. 050-3134-8091
https://hoshinoresorts.com/ja/brands/hoshinoya/

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