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October 21, 2015
Australia: A Culinary Continent. A Journey Through Food and Wine | Western Australia: Margaret River | Feature
Feature | Journey to Australia's Continent of Gastronomy: A Culinary and Wine Adventure
1. Western Australia: Margaret River
A Legendary Land Producing Australia's Finest Premium Wines
The Australian culinary and wine journey begins in Western Australia. From Japan, I flew Singapore Airlines, connecting in Singapore to reach the gateway city of Perth. It brings back memories of my first trip to Australia, which also involved an Asian transit. Connections are better now, and the flights are certainly more comfortable.
At Perth Airport,Go in Style Luxury Transportmy driver, Peter, was waiting for me. This company offers day tours and transfers between Perth and Margaret River, using a fleet of meticulously maintained luxury vehicles. Peter had arranged a silver V8 XJ Sovereign, a 1998 model, for my use.
The drive from Perth to Margaret River, my destination, takes about three hours. I would be staying for two nights. Emulating the egalitarian Australian spirit, which eschews hierarchical relationships between guests and hosts, I chose to sit in the front passenger seat rather than the back. Peter, with his friendly yet calm demeanor, proved to be an excellent travel companion for the three days until he returned to Perth and departed for his next destination. Our drive began, filled with the simple pleasure of our unhurried conversation.
Margaret River refers to the area stretching along the west coast of Western Australia. Grape cultivation began in the 1970s, leading to the establishment of legendary wineries. It transformed into a legendary land that produces some of Australia's finest premium wines. Today, nearly 200 wineries, large and small, are scattered throughout the region, making winery tours with tastings a popular activity for enthusiasts.
I first visited over 20 years ago. The beautiful forests of Karri, eucalyptus trees (called gum trees in Australia), the gently rolling vineyards, and the stunning turquoise Indian Ocean—while its beauty remains unchanged, the area has evolved into a more sophisticated luxury wine destination with the addition of many refined facilities such as organic cafes, chocolate factories, olive oil farms, and superb resorts.
Of course, in addition to established wineries, there's a growing number of boutique wineries producing organic and craft wines by new young winemakers and entrepreneurs, making it a very exciting region. It's also a popular weekend getaway from Perth, so it's understandable that it gets crowded with traffic on weekends. For those who want to slowly immerse themselves in the surrounding nature and visit accomplished, distinctive wineries, weekdays are recommended.
Accommodation options are plentiful, ranging from luxurious lodge-style retreats to casual motels and holiday apartments with kitchens. This time, although slightly removed from the center of Margaret River, I stayed atPullman Resort Bunker Bay, located in the scenic Bunker Bay. For the second night, I stayed atCape Lodge, renowned as Margaret River's premier luxury lodge. Both offer the resort feel and relaxed atmosphere unique to Margaret River; Pullman is ideal for family stays, while Cape Lodge is perfect for a more romantic getaway.
To fully enjoy the winery tours in Margaret River, a car is essential. Renting a car from Perth is an option, but considering the wine tastings, arranging for a dedicated driver and vehicle is indispensable.
Go in Style Luxury Transport, who assisted with my reporting, is popular among high-end wine enthusiasts for its availability for individuals and groups, and its use of luxury vehicles. I was so impressed with their service that I decided to book them for my next visit with my wine-loving friends.
Beyond gastronomy and wine, the pleasures of Margaret River also lie in experiencing the surrounding nature. Conducting trail walking tours with a naturalist is the specialty ofCape to Cape Explorer Tours. They guide participants along a variety of well-maintained trails, tailored to their fitness level and interests. Margaret River is also one of the world's premier surfing spots, offering the chance to indulge in both wine and surf.
Golfers should definitely visit theMargaret River Golf Club. It's a charmingly serene 18-hole course, famous for the kangaroos that often appear, even featuring in its logo. Visitors are welcome, so you can enjoy a round alongside the regular players.
Go in Style Luxury Transport
http://www.goinstyle.com.au
Pullman Resort Bunker Bay
42 Bunker Bay Road, Naturaliste WA 6281, Australia
http://www.pullmanbunkerbayresort.com.au
Cape Lodge
3341 Caves Road, Yallingup WA 6282, Australia
http://www.capelodge.com.au
Cape to Cape Explorer Tours
http://capetocapetours.com.au/explorer/
Margaret River Golf Club
599 Wallcliffe Road, Margaret River WA 6285, Australia
http://www.margaretrivergolfclub.com.au
Save This: 10 Recommended Spots in Margaret River
Feature | Journey to Australia's Continent of Gastronomy: A Culinary and Wine Adventure
1. Western Australia: Margaret River
10 Recommended Spots in Margaret River
The Goose Beach Bar + Kitchen
As a coffee addict, I was thoroughly satisfied with the exquisite coffee.
Located in the port town of Busselton, just before entering Margaret River, this is a cheerful seaside cafe and restaurant. The Busselton Jetty, famous for its approximately 2-kilometer length, is right next door. I only ordered a café latte for a refreshing break during my drive, but it turned out to be my best coffee of the trip. The balance between the rich, bitter espresso and the creamy milk foam was perfect! It's a spectacular location where I could have happily spent more time gazing at the sea, perhaps with a glass of wine. Peter treated me, so I didn't pay.
The Goose Beach Bar + Kitchen
http://thegoose.com.au/
Other Side of the Moon Restaurant
The main dish, confit of free-range chicken, was incredibly delicious. It was a perfect introduction to the quality of Margaret River's dining scene from the very first night.
This is the main dining room of the Pullman Resort Bunker Bay, where I stayed on my first night. The interior seamlessly blends modern design with a casual ambiance. Outside, there are terrace seats overlooking the pool and eucalyptus forest. Despite it being a weekday, the restaurant was surprisingly lively with local guests, attesting to its popularity.
For dinner that evening, I chose the appetizer: 'Roasted Local Pear' (A$15.50). It was topped with goat cheese, served on a light filo pastry, and drizzled with pomegranate glaze. The interplay of sweet and tart flavors with varied textures was delightful.
I paired it with Deep Woods 'Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2014' from Margaret River. Its crisp acidity complemented the pear beautifully. A glass costs A$9. Next, the main course: 'Confit of Free-Range Chicken' (A$36.50). Accompanied by tomato, olive, and lemon salsa, the accent was provided by Mograbiah, a pearl-shaped semolina grain often used in Lebanese cuisine. The chicken was deeply flavorful and astonishingly delicious. The meat, firm yet tender and juicy, had a crispy exterior. Each bite was rich with flavor, and I couldn't stop eating until it was all gone, even savoring the bone.
Pullman Resort Bunker Bay
42 Bunker Bay Road, Naturaliste WA 6281, Australia
http://www.pullmanresortbunkerbay.com.au
White Elephant Beach Café
The view from the cafe's terrace. The weather was unfortunately poor, but the dramatic ocean view before me was spectacular.
'It's a cheerful cafe converted from an old beach pavilion (changing rooms),' said driver Peter with a smile as he took me there. The White Elephant Cafe is located about a 10-minute drive from the center of Margaret River, overlooking Gnarabup Beach, and is popular with surfers and locals. All seating is outdoors on the terrace. Although it was cloudy and rainy, regular customers were constantly arriving by car to pick up coffee and breakfast takeaways (the Australian term for takeout).
I ordered the 'Big Brekky' (A$21.50). It featured generously piled sautéed large wild mushrooms, scrambled eggs, bacon, and pork sausage on perfectly toasted Italian ciabatta. I knew I couldn't finish it all, but the sheer size was daunting. It's clearly designed for hungry surfers after a session. Peter happily enjoyed his 'Fruit & Nut Loaf with Lemon Ricotta and Honey' (A$9.50) from Augusta Bakery & Cafe in Augusta, Western Australia. Owner Anthony opened the cafe with the aim of supporting local tourism. In addition to breakfast, they also serve lunch, capitalizing on the potential of the beach overlooking the Indian Ocean. In Japan, this prime location would likely have long queues, but the relaxed, laid-back atmosphere is quintessentially Australian. While it's beautiful on a clear day, spending time here in the rain also has its charm. It's a truly wonderful cafe that makes you feel that way.
White Elephant Beach Cafe
http://www.whiteelephantcafe.com.au
Vasse Felix
The tasting counter on the first floor. Open 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM. Reservations are not required.
Vasse Felix is one of the legendary wineries that elevated the reputation of Margaret River wines. Founded in 1967 by Dr. Tom Cullity, who recognized the region's excellent environment, it was the first commercially based winery in Margaret River. His inspiration to start winemaking came from a local newspaper article about Dr. John Gladstones's announcement that 'Margaret River closely resembles Bordeaux.'
I've visited here many times, and it has been stylishly renovated again. Personally, I favor Vasse Felix's Chardonnay, but the style of Margaret River Chardonnays, which used to be characterized by strong oak influence, seems to have become more refined, elegant, and complex. The top-range 'Haynesworth Chardonnay 2013,' which had just been released, was truly elegant and reportedly has the potential to age for about five years.
Many wineries in Australia have attached restaurants and cafes, and Vasse Felix was an early adopter, establishing a restaurant focused on local produce. Unfortunately, it was closed for renovations during my visit, but it is known as a highly acclaimed restaurant both domestically and internationally.
Vasse Felix
http://www.vassefelix.com.au
Aravina Estate
Features a gallery of the owner's vintage car collection.
This was formerly Ambersley Estate, a family-run winery founded in 1986. I visited several times and still vividly remember the labels depicting the beautiful eucalyptus forests of Margaret River. In 2010, it was reborn as Aravina Estate under its current owner, Steve Tobin. The 180 acres of vineyards cultivate red varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz, Tempranillo, and Malbec, as well as white varietals like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Chenin Blanc.
It is recognized as a noteworthy winery in Margaret River, having been selected as one of the 'Top 10 New Wineries' for 2014 by renowned Australian wine critic James Halliday.
The cellar door and restaurant, surrounded by gently sloping lawns and meticulously maintained gardens, are among the most luxurious in the area. Adding to its uniqueness is the gallery of vintage cars, part of the owner's collection. The oldest is a 1965 Aston Martin DB5, the newest a 2013 Ferrari 458 Spider, and among them are legendary vehicles like a 1973 Ferrari 365 GTB/4 Daytona 'Competition,' and a 1969 Lamborghini Miura S 'Twiggy's Miura,' once owned by supermodel Twiggy.
Jodie, one of the prominent female winemakers in Margaret River, crafts exceptional wines here. She is a young talent with a passionate dedication to winemaking, tempered by a shy demeanor. Her wines, faithfully capturing the potential of the grape varietals, are elegant and vibrant. The restaurant is also a local favorite. Executive Chef Tony Howell, after a 15-year tenure at the restaurant ofCape Lodge, took on his current role here. His 'Farm to Table' concept cuisine has received high acclaim, including multiple nominations for 'Gold List Best Food' by Condé Nast Traveler magazine.
For me, the chef prepared an appetizer of 'Margaret River Venison Carpaccio with Esperance Scallops' (A$26). For the main course, two dishes were presented, with the chef saying, 'Feel free to leave some; I want you to enjoy it.' One was 'Grilled Pork with Roasted Vegetables and Beetroot Sauce,' and the other was 'Pan-Seared Snapper.' The dishes showcased the chef's excellent sense of balance, utilizing local ingredients. The slightly higher salt content was likely calculated to pair well with wine. This is another dining spot that should not be missed in Margaret River.
Aravina Estate
http://www.aravinaestate.com
Watershed Premium Wines
Many wineries in Australia, not just in Western Australia, boast excellent restaurants. The tasting plate is perfect to enjoy with their signature wines.
Although a relatively new winery with its first release in 2002, its wines have been praised by renowned wine critic James Halliday as exceeding expectations across all three series. It owns a vast 187-acre vineyard and produced 800 tons of wine as of 2012, with plans to expand production to 2000 tons, aiming to become one of Margaret River's largest wineries. Forty-five percent of the vines are red varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Sangiovese, with the remainder being white varietals such as Chardonnay and Viognier. They offer three series: Shades, Senses, and Awakening.
'Awakening Cabernet Sauvignon 2009' is their pinnacle, having won numerous awards. Aged for 18 months in French oak, it features rich aromas of blackcurrant, licorice, and mocha, with velvety smooth tannins. The spacious restaurant, overlooking the beautiful vineyards, is also a highlight. The 'Taste Plate' (A$52), a combination of tomato tartare, Esperance scallops, salmon, and duck confit, is an excellent accompaniment to wine. The 'Rack of Lamb & Ribs' (A$38), featuring local lamb, pairs perfectly with the aforementioned Cabernet Sauvignon.
Watershed Premium Wines
http://www.watershedwines.com.au
Bahen & Co. Chocolate
Josh and Jack, crafting exquisite chocolate in their small factory.
This is arguably the most notable artisan-style chocolate company embodying the 'bean-to-bar' philosophy. It is not yet available in Japan. Located in a small barn beyond the vineyards, this is their factory. Founded by father and son duo Josh and Jack Bahen, they have lovingly restored a vintage 1930s cocoa roaster and a 1910s chocolate-making machine. They meticulously handle every step of the process by hand: selecting, roasting, crushing, grinding, conching, aging the cocoa beans, and finally foiling and packaging the finished chocolate.
They use only cocoa beans and organic cane sugar. To eliminate unnecessary intermediaries and margins, they practice fair trade, purchasing high-quality cocoa directly from producers at fair prices. This honest business ethos is reflected in their rich and solid chocolates, which express the inherent character and flavor of the cocoa beans directly. Their chocolate offerings include dark varieties such as 70% or 80% Madagascan, Papua New Guinean, or Brazilian cocoa, as well as a house blend. They also offer intense flavors like Chili & Salt and Almond Sea Salt. These pair wonderfully with Margaret River's robust Cabernet or a strong espresso. As they do not sell directly at the factory, purchases can be made at the Margaret River Farmers Market on Saturdays or at select winery shops.
Bahen & Co. Chocolate
http://www.bahenchocolate.com
Olio Bello
Outside the tasting room, there's a relaxing terrace surrounded by olive trees.
Excellent wine requires a favorable environment. Margaret River, like Europe's renowned wine regions, possesses a Mediterranean-like climate and soil that provides just the right amount of stress to the vines, resulting in superb grapes. This environment also yields a bounty of other fruits, including olives. Olio Bello cultivates 14 different varieties of olives on its 320-acre property, producing handmade Australian organic extra virgin olive oil.
Entering the tasting room, surrounded by olive trees, one is struck by the array of bottles. All of the more than 20 varieties of olive oil are available for tasting or sampling. From full-bodied, rich oils to light and smooth ones, each has its own distinct character. They also offer infused oils with flavors like Parmesan, Chili & Garlic, Vanilla, Lime, and Asian Sensation. Between April and June, visitors can observe the oil extraction process and taste the freshly pressed oil. An 'Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil' (50ml) costs A$9.95.
Olio Bello
http://www.oliobello.com
Margaret River Chocolate Company
A wide variety of truffles are also available.
This is a popular chocolate factory that attracts many tourists visiting Margaret River. Founded in 1999, it has factories in Margaret River and the Swan Valley (another wine region in Western Australia), as well as a concept shop in Perth. Upon entering, you are enveloped in a sweet aroma, and the sheer volume of chocolates displayed in the spacious shop is astonishing. They offer everything from handmade truffles and chocolate bars to rocky road chunks, chocolate-coated sweets, fudges, sauces, and even sugar-free options.
The counter features a free tasting area, where both children and adults can freely enjoy chocolate chips – a truly Australian experience. I recommend the Macadamia Clusters, one of about 20 varieties of truffles. Macadamia nuts are native to Australia, so be sure to try this authentic macadamia chocolate with crunchy, fragrant macadamia nuts.
Margaret River Chocolate Company
http://www.chocolatefactory.com.au
Margaret River Providore
Their convenient mix packs for easy home baking are very popular.
I was truly disappointed that my visit was in the late afternoon and the weather wasn't great. The terracotta building, olive trees, and vegetable gardens created a charming atmosphere reminiscent of Provence in southern France. In the past, before refrigerators, European homes always had orchards, and fruits like olives, grapes, apricots, and citrus were harvested seasonally, preserved, and used to add color to meals. This shop recreates that concept for the modern day. Wines, olive oils, jams, sauces, spice mixes, and dressings are displayed inside.
Everything is handmade in the small workshop out back. They offer many convenient packs for home baking, such as the 'Vanilla, Cranberry & White Chocolate Muffin Pack' (A$18.95) and the 'Lime & Vanilla Pancake Pack' (A$18.95). Their coffee liqueur, 'Sambarino,' available in flavors like Dark Chocolate, After Dinner Mint, and Macchiato, is a popular item priced at A$24.95 and up.
Margaret River Providore
http://www.providore.com.au