More than just affordable: exploring the potential of Chilean Grand Vins.

LOUNGE EAT｜BARON PHILIPPE DE ROTHSCHILD Baronesa P.

When people hear “Chilean wine,” many in Japan likely think of “value for money.” Thanks to the free trade agreement between Japan and Chile, Chilean wines have gained acceptance as daily wines that can be enjoyed at affordable prices. However, the potential hidden within this country’s terroir far exceeds such a common perception. In fact, prestigious Bordeaux châteaux have taken notice of this land and continued to invest here for many years. What they discovered was soil capable of producing “great wines” comparable to those of the Old World. The culmination of this effort is “Baronesa P.”, crafted by Baron Philippe de Rothschild.

Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi

The Truth Hidden Behind Value

There is a clear strategy behind Chilean wine’s emphasis on value for money in the Japanese market. With the enforcement of the Japan-Chile EPA in 2007, wine tariffs were gradually reduced, and completely eliminated by 2019. To maximize the advantage of zero tariffs, Chile’s wine industry established mass production systems and aimed to expand market share in Japan by leveraging price competitiveness.

As a result, Chilean wine imports have increased dramatically, securing the third-largest position after France and Italy. From daily wines around ¥1,000 found on supermarket shelves to glass wines at izakaya chains, affordable and delicious Chilean wine has become a familiar presence. However, the price for this success has been the formation of a fixed notion that “Chilean wine equals cheap, good wine.” Many Japanese people are only exposed to products in the affordable price range, unaware of Chilean wine’s true potential.

Yet, in reality, this country possesses an exceptional terroir that has captured the attention of the world’s top wineries. A prime example is the Maipo Valley, located near the capital, Santiago. The climate here resembles the Mediterranean climate favored by Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, but that’s not all. During the summer, cold air descends from the Andes mountains, causing significant drops in temperature at night. This diurnal temperature variation is the ideal condition for grape maturation. The daytime sun increases sugar content, while the cool night air preserves acidity and aroma. This exquisite balance creates complex and profound flavors.

Similarly, the diversity of soil types is not to be overlooked. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Syrah thrive in alluvial soil composed of pebbles, gravel, sandy clay, and loam, with bedrock found three meters below the surface. The grape roots absorb nutrients while experiencing moderate stress. Meanwhile, Carménère and Petit Verdot are planted in deep clay soils, imparting a supple and elegant tannic structure to the wines. Selecting the optimal plot for each grape variety and maximizing its individual characteristics—this approach is precisely what top Bordeaux châteaux have strived for over centuries.

Vineyards located on well-drained steep slopes. Bathed in sunlight, they are not prone to accumulating extreme cold from morning frost.

Chile's Potential: A Bet by a Prestigious Bordeaux House

The potential of the Maipo Valley was recognized by Baron Philippe de Rothschild, the owner of Château Mouton Rothschild, one of the First Growths of Bordeaux. The history of this prestigious house is a continuous series of innovation and challenges. In 1978, founder Baron Philippe de Rothschild joined forces with Robert Mondavi of California to establish “Opus One” in Napa Valley. This wine, a fusion of Bordeaux’s traditional techniques and the New World’s terroir, is now known as a leading ultra-premium wine in America.

His daughter, Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, inherited her father’s pioneering spirit. After his passing in 1988, she ended her career as a stage actress and dedicated herself to the family business. Then, in the late 1990s, captivated by Chile’s terroir, she embarked on a new challenge.

In 1999, the Escudo Rojo (“Red Shield,” a reference to the Rothschild coat of arms) brand was born in the Maipo Valley. It was the moment when techniques and knowledge cultivated in Bordeaux were transplanted to Chilean soil. Dedicated oenologists approached winemaking with the same rigor as in France, from meticulous parcel selection to blending. Incorporating cutting-edge technologies like soil electrical conductivity measurements, they repeated the processes of fermentation, observation, analysis, and evaluation. This accumulation of effort would eventually lead to a significant achievement.

A New Horizon Unveiled After 20 Years of Dedication

In 2019, a cuvée that could be called the culmination of 20 years of effort was finally released to the world: “Baronesa P.” This wine was created as a special tribute to Baroness Philippine de Rothschild. The Baroness held the title of Baroness, and this wine, bearing her initial “P” (for Philippine), encapsulates her passion for her venture in Chile.

The selection process, beyond optical sorting, involves rigorous human inspection to determine ripeness. In an industry trend towards automation to reduce labor costs, this traditional meticulousness impacts the final quality of the wine.

Only grapes from the finest plots within their vineyards are used, with vineyard management akin to haute couture. Five varietals are meticulously blended, with Cabernet Sauvignon forming the backbone at 81%. Cabernet Franc (5%), Syrah (5%), Petit Verdot (5%), and Carménère (4%) are added, creating a magnificent harmony of each varietal’s characteristics—Cabernet’s powerful tannins and elegance, Carménère’s rich body, Syrah’s spicy notes, and Petit Verdot’s deep color and structure.

The use of new oak barrels imparts a luxurious bouquet. This is possible due to the exceptional quality of the grapes.

Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels (55% new, 45% one-year-old), the oak aromas fully integrate into the wine as a bouquet. It carries a complex aroma layering notes of blackberry, cassis, and black cherry with hints of black pepper, roasted almond, and mocha. The palate is powerful, rich, and full-bodied, yet supported by a refined structure of elegant tannins. The long finish also hints at significant potential for aging.

The 2020 vintage is a rich, full-bodied wine that simultaneously possesses elegance and finesse. Expressive fruit flavors lend complexity and richness to the mid-palate, fully showcasing the terroir’s character. It can be considered one of the great vintages in the history of Chilean wine.

“Baronesa P.” represents a new benchmark for Chilean wine. It transcends the singular evaluation criterion of “affordability” to reveal the potential of a true grand vin, born from respect for terroir and the fusion of technology. This is not to deny the value of Chilean wine as a daily option. However, this country’s terroir possesses the power to stand alongside the world’s finest wines. This single bottle, refined over more than 20 years by a prestigious Bordeaux house, is the ultimate proof.

We encourage those seeking an experience beyond preconceived notions to reach for “Baronesa P.” The deep ruby-purple liquid poured into the glass reflects the Chilean sun, the Andean chill, and the wisdom of generations of winemaking. Its taste, a masterful blend of New World power and Old World knowledge, is sure to revolutionize your perception of Chilean wine.