Series: Wajo Waraku | Vol. 22: Miyagura Ryu, Brewed with Natural Grace
Lounge
May 27, 2015

Series: Wajo Waraku | Vol. 22: Miyagura Ryu, Brewed with Natural Grace


Unfettered by convention, a free spirit?


Brewing with a Natural Touch: "Gasanryu"


This time, we delve into the philosophy behind "Gasanryu," brewed by Shindo Sake Brewery Co., Ltd. in the snow-covered city of Yonezawa, Yamagata Prefecture. It's a story about its spirit, perhaps?


Text by Wajo WarakuPhoto by JAMANDFIX(TOP)




Brewing Sake, Creating Music? An Inseparable Connection



Recently, while in the United States, I received some wonderful news: a gold medal at the National New Sake Appraisals and gold medals in two categories at the International Wine Challenge. This is the second consecutive year of winning, and while we don't necessarily aim for it, it's incredibly gratifying as the head of production to see the brewers' skills recognized.

Actually, I play in a band in my hometown. I've loved music since I was a child, teaching myself piano from elementary school and now even co-owning a band studio. What instruments do I play? Keyboards, bass, saxophone, drums – I play them all! As the bandmaster of a small group, I have to be able to do everything! Isn't that just like a small, local craft sake brewery?!!!



Motivation, Sensitivity, and Learning Are Key



We small, local "craft sake breweries" only brew during the winter months. We simply don't have the capacity to employ many staff year-round. Consequently, the group known as "toji," seasonal migrant workers, has long been valued. However, due to a declining population, many breweries now train their own brewers, or successors are directly involved in production. It makes perfect sense when you think about it. Rather than hiring an external band to perform, you can create your own music by playing with your own band. Sake brewing is the same.

During the winter, I also act as the head of production, doing whatever is necessary. From 7 AM to 3 AM, I handle everything: washing rice, analysis, koji, shubo, moromi, administration, and other miscellaneous tasks. Please, ask me anything. I will instruct you with the utmost precision, drawing on the intuition and experience instilled in me by my grandfather since I was in third grade, when he first brought me into the brewery.

Recently, our company has been hiring one full-time employee each year. They are all fresh graduates, untainted by any particular influence. It's crucial to have people involved in sake production year-round. I intend to shape them myself. Anyone with band experience would understand. No matter how unskilled a band is, if you practice a song hundreds of times together, you can understand what each other wants to do just by looking at their eyes and gestures, and the song won't fall apart, no matter what happens. I always think about making my brewery into just such a place.







Ignite Your Soul!



It is in this spirit that "Gasanryu" is brewed. The "ryu" (style) in Gasanryu comes from the teaching that one should not perceive the myriad things in nature as fixed entities. While mountains appear to be still and rivers to flow, over long periods, mountains move, and rivers can also cease their flow. Sake brewing, too, should not be done by rigidly adhering to a single approach.

Always aiming for sake quality that is two steps ahead and two ranks higher than others, I brew clean, fresh, and diverse styles of sake, much like music. This is my brewing style, and the name "Gasanryu" was chosen to embody this aspiration: to brew sake with an unfettered, free-thinking, and natural approach.

Times move forward, whether we like it or not. Tradition, if preserved passively, will decay. I believe that truly preserving tradition means re-examining and digesting what has been inherited, using it as strength to build new traditions, and passing on something better to the next generation.

Are there still people around you who say, "Our brewery has stubbornly preserved the traditions passed down since the Edo period..."?

So, everyone, a delightful time with sake awaits you today. What kind of Japanese sake will be your partner tonight, igniting your soul to burn with passion? Will it burn hot and intense? Or burn cleanly and beautifully? That is up to your soul.




SAKURA × Chiharu Nagatomi Talk (Part 2) "The Must-See Super Serum"



"Gasanryu" Giveaway



We are giving away a 720mL bottle of Japanese sake, featured in each installment of the "Wajo Waraku SAKE Academy" series on the web magazine OPENERS, to three lucky winners.

If you wish to enter, please apply via the form below.
Winners will be contacted directly.

Application Period: July 1, 2010 (Thursday) - July 30, 2010 (Friday, 12:00 PM)

Application Form
Applications are now closed.
Thank you for your many applications.