FASHION /
MEN
May 8, 2015
Calvin Klein Collection | A Special Conversation: Italo Zucchelli x Yoshiyuki Shimazu
Calvin Klein Collection
Special Talk: Italo Zucchelli × Yoshiyuki Shimazu
Calvin Klein Collection has made its debut in Japan with a limited-time capsule collection at Dover Street Market Ginza. To commemorate this occasion, a special talk was held between Mr. Yoshiyuki Shimazu, stylist and fashion director, and Mr. Italo Zucchelli, the brand's Men's Creative Director. Mr. Shimazu, who has followed the brand since the 1980s, delves into its history and creative vision.
Photographs by JAMANDFIXText by IWANAGA Morito (OPENERS)
Yoshiyuki Shimazu on the Past and Present of Calvin Klein
Yoshiyuki Shimazu (hereinafter, Shimazu)) I've been following Calvin Klein collections since the Made in USA era. I still own an MA-1 bomber jacket from that time, similar to the ones featured in this season's collection.
The designers themselves seemed to draw inspiration from military and workwear, and while using classical items, they've consistently built and expressed the brand's image with a sense of modernity, haven't they?
That was an era when fashion incorporating military elements felt very modern. Furthermore, the sizing and other aspects also felt fresh and urban. Having followed the brand's trajectory for a long time, I was surprised that the first line had never been available in Japan until now.
Italo Zucchelli (hereinafter, Italo)Yes. While we offered licensed products and second lines, we haven't been able to deliver the "Calvin Klein Collection" to our Japanese customers for a very long time. I am extremely pleased that we have been able to relaunch it at Dover Street Market Ginza, albeit for a limited time. As the designs have evolved to appeal to a younger audience, I believe it's ideal for the brand's intentions to reintroduce it in such a space.
ShimazuLooking at the 2014-15 Autumn/Winter collection's runway looks, they seemed somewhat oversized, but when I actually tried them on, the sizing felt adaptable even for someone with a Japanese physique. I find that aspect modern, and perhaps it's geared towards a younger demographic in the US as well. Frankly, I thought it was excellent. I hope this relaunch will increase opportunities to acquire Calvin Klein Collection items in Japan. I felt inspired to express this through editorial work.
Thank you. Editorial appeal is a crucial element for fashion brands, so I would be delighted to collaborate with you. In fact, we created an original lookbook specifically for the Japanese market. We commissioned it with the request for young Japanese models and a rising photographer, and I asked a Japanese stylist with whom I have a long-standing relationship.
Calvin Klein Collection | Special Talk: Italo Zucchelli × Yoshiyuki Shimazu 06Calvin Klein Collection | Special Talk: Italo Zucchelli × Yoshiyuki Shimazu 06
ShimazuThis is it, isn't it? I was surprised by the luxurious binding of the book itself.
ItaloI had seen the photographs beforehand, but holding the booklet in my hands, I was once again struck by its opulence. Of course, the visuals are incredibly satisfying, and I felt a refined impression stemming from Japanese creativity.
This lookbook is actually also available at Dover Street Market in New York. While Dover Street Market has stores worldwide, the one in Japan has a particularly distinct Japanese mood. From that perspective as well, it turned out to be a wonderful finish that perfectly matches the retail space.
Understanding the Brand's Identity
ShimazuSpeaking of Calvin Klein, since the 1980s, you've built a unique, stylish image that symbolized the era through monochrome advertising visuals featuring Kate Moss, haven't you? I truly love those photographs. While the impression of underwear packaging might be strong.
It's a rare brand that has succeeded in conveying its image through groundbreaking, unique branding. On the other hand, I find it wonderful that it's also evolving into new styles, as seen in this展開 at Dover Street Market Ginza.
ItaloWe continue to present visuals in monochrome. We ourselves understand that those campaigns were definitive in shaping the brand's image. For the Spring/Summer 2015 collection, we consciously focused on featuring underwear. After all, for Calvin Klein, items like underwear and jeans are indispensable elements in forming the brand's identity.
ShimazuDuring the show, you also presented a style where underwear was layered and visible. That was an interesting approach.
ItaloInitially, I considered showing it at the waist with the brand logo, but it didn't quite work out (laughs). So, we showed it peeking out from the hem with half-pants layered underneath. It's a look I'm quite fond of, in terms of how to incorporate the brand's identity into styling.
ShimazuThat's precisely the kind of style that only Calvin Klein can achieve. I was impressed by how skillfully it was expressed.
By the way, I understand you visit Japan frequently, Italo. What are your impressions?
ItaloI love it. I love the Japanese language. The food culture is also rich, and every time I visit, I discover something new.
ShimazuI'm glad to hear you say that. Regarding cultural aspects, I'm sure you would also appreciate Kyoto.
ItaloActually, I haven't been there yet. I've only been to Tokyo... I never have enough time to linger and always return to New York quickly. I'd like to stay for a longer period and explore more places.
A special men’s capsule from Calvin Klein Collection
Dates | Friday, October 24 - Thursday, November 13
Location | Dover Street Market Ginza
6-9-5 Ginza Komatsu West Building, Chuo-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-6228-5080
CK Service Corporation
Tel. 03-6418-5875
SHIMAZU Yoshiyuki
Stylist / Fashion Director. Born in Kumamoto in 1959. He has styled numerous commercials, talents, and models for magazines and advertising media. He is also active in various fields, including planning fashion shows, selecting music, and undertaking creative direction for magazines.









