Authentic Materials, No Compromises

Kobayashi explains, "I've been researching Chanel suits, personally supervised by Coco Chanel herself and manufactured between 1955 and 1971, as a personal hobby."

From France, he selected the 160-year-old textile manufacturer "Turlin." Based in Lyon, Turlin is a venerable company indispensable to discussions of French basics, traditionally producing French Navy pea coat melton and marine stripe T-shirts. They have a deep relationship with Chanel, creating numerous tweed textiles with distinctive yarns each season. For this collaboration, they used a fabric (NAVY×RED) chosen to evoke the American flag, "The Star & Stripes."

Based on Milan's Via Montenapoleone, the Italian firm "Guandini" is an essential presence in the European haute couture industry. Their exceptional weaving techniques are among Italy's finest. For this project, they provided a fabric (BLACK×WHITE) featuring a checkerboard motif, recreated using wool material intended for haute couture.

In the UK, "Linton" supplied textiles when Coco Chanel first expanded her creations from hats to apparel in the 1930s. The two-tone white material used here, a mix of whites with differing yarn textures, offers a substantial impression despite its simple appearance, a hallmark of this esteemed house. It pairs exceptionally well with pearls.

Available in 15 Sizes for All Genders

Kobayashi states the aim of this "Chanel Tweed" and Vans collaboration was "to elevate normcore into a hardcore visual by matching Vans, an icon of youth culture, with the pinnacle of European couture materials." He adds, "The Vans team readily agreed to this experimental presentation, and they were able to realize my vision using techniques they had never tried before."

The Vans last used is a silhouette close to current American models, with a substantial width reminiscent of the early 70s. The curb chain around the heel is a vintage detail, inspired by the weights sewn into the hem of Chanel suits to maintain their shape.

The custom box features a graphic created by designer Kobayashi himself, from a photograph of a 100-year-old crocodile travel trunk. The interior is lined with fur. Available in 15 sizes, from 22.5 to 29.5 cm, they are also unisex, a welcome feature.

We look forward to seeing this remarkable concept and challenge of transplanting the essence of deep French vintage directly onto Vans.