Why is Brioni investing so seriously in artisan training now?
FASHION / NEWS
December 25, 2024

Why is Brioni investing so seriously in artisan training now?

Brioni

As technological advancements accelerate, a paradoxical trend is capturing attention in the fashion world: venerable Maisons are seriously investing in the preservation and transmission of artisanal craftsmanship. Among them, the esteemed Italian house Brioni has established a tailoring school offering a comprehensive curriculum and generous scholarships, with training lasting 1,300 hours annually. In an era of rapid technological progress, the intrinsic value of human skill is being rediscovered.

Text by YAMAGUCHI Koichi

The Value of Human Touch in the Digital Age

In recent years, as digitalization and AI have advanced at an accelerating pace, the concept of "slow living" has regained prominence. This philosophy, which gained traction in the 2000s, was initially seen as a form of counter-argument to modern society's pursuit of efficiency and convenience. Now, this ethos is manifesting in the haute couture world as "slow luxury," a new value system that emphasizes meticulous craftsmanship over time and enduring worth.
Established Maisons like Hermès and Louis Vuitton are strengthening their artisan training programs, while Chanel has been acquiring specialized ateliers to safeguard its craftspeople's skills. The preservation and transmission of traditional artisanal techniques to the next generation are becoming increasingly active pursuits among luxury brands.
 
Amidst this landscape, the venerable Italian Maison Brioni has launched "Scuola di Alta Sartoria Nazareno Fonticoli," a new tailoring school, embarking on a serious endeavor to cultivate the next generation of artisans. With an annual curriculum spanning 1,300 hours, direct instruction from master tailors, and a generous scholarship program to support young talent, these initiatives reveal the company's unwavering commitment to the precision of master craftsmanship and meticulous, handmade production.
"All our endeavors aim to resist the speed of contemporary fashion and to respect and adhere to the Maison's fundamental principles," states Brioni CEO Mehdi Benabaji. His words convey a profound desire to cherish the value generated by artisans' hands, precisely because we live in an era that prioritizes efficiency and convenience.
The inauguration ceremony was attended by the mayor of the local town of Penne, members of the Brioni Foundation's board, and faculty and students of the school.
Indeed, crafting a Brioni bespoke suit requires over 24 hours, and a tuxedo jacket takes 32 hours. Every step, from hand-stitching to the creation of buttonholes using traditional techniques, is executed with precision and care. Certain hand-worked details, involving up to 22 artisans, have been passed down virtually unchanged for 75 years.

Slow Luxury: A New Paradigm of Value

Brioni's philosophy of "slow luxury" transcends mere brand identity, offering a new value system to contemporary society. It is an approach that prioritizes the creation of meticulously crafted objects over time and their cherished use, rather than the pursuit of speed and efficiency.
 
For instance, Brioni suits feature special seam allowances designed to evolve with the wearer. The concept of a "suit for life," adaptable to changes in body shape, can be seen as a sustainable initiative that challenges the culture of disposable consumption.
Altagamma Foundation, which supports the development of Italy's luxury industry, highlights critical challenges facing the sector. According to its General Manager, Stefania Lazzaroni, the luxury industry will require 276,000 skilled professionals in the next five years, with 75,000 of those needed in fashion. However, approximately 50% of companies report difficulties in securing this talent.
 
In light of this situation, all 16 students in Brioni's inaugural class have been awarded scholarships covering 85% of their tuition fees. Furthermore, a comprehensive support system is in place, with full tuition reimbursement for those who pass their exams.

Artisanal Skills Beyond AI and Robots

Precisely because discussions about AI and robots replacing human jobs are so prevalent, investments in training artisans hold significant meaning. Artisanal skill involves not only precision but also the ability to discern materials, tactile sensitivity, and creativity born from years of experience.
 
Brioni's initiative extends beyond mere preservation of traditional techniques. It is also an attempt to evolve elegance in line with contemporary lifestyles and to re-examine the meaning of luxury in a new era.
Perhaps, in an era focused on efficiency and convenience, the value of items crafted with time and care only increases. Brioni's serious investment in artisan training seems to offer a compelling answer for passing the value of human creativity to the future.
Contact

Brioni Client Services
Tel. 0120-200-185
https://www.brioni.com/jp

Photo Gallery