LOEWE | Jonathan Anderson's "New Loewe"
Fashion
December 29, 2014

LOEWE | Jonathan Anderson's "New Loewe"


LOEWE


CASA LOEWE Omotesando Grand Opens


The New LOEWE by Jonathan Anderson (1)



Founded in 1846 in Madrid, Spain, LOEWE is a luxury brand with a rich heritage. On Thursday, July 17th, its flagship store in Japan, "CASA LOEWE Omotesando," celebrated its grand opening in Tokyo's Omotesando district. We'll bring you the story of the opening reception, attended by new Creative Director Jonathan Anderson, and introduce the "new LOEWE" that will be reborn from the Autumn/Winter 2014 season.

Text by Morito IWANAGA (OPENERS)



The New Store Concept: "CASA LOEWE"



Omotesando, TokyoThis location was chosen as the debut for LOEWE's new store concept, "CASA LOEWE," under the guidance of its new Creative Director, Jonathan Anderson, marking a global first.



1F




2F





"CASA LOEWE Omotesando" has opened its doors within the "ONE Omotesando Building," a structure designed by Kengo Kuma, one of Japan's leading architects. The building itself draws inspiration from the work of visionary architect Javier Carvajal, who significantly contributed to LOEWE's modern identity in the 21st century.

With its diverse use of materials and an ingenious yet open layout, this unprecedented three-floor boutique expresses the Maison's commitment to excellence, innovation, and enduring craftsmanship, reflecting the multifaceted world of LOEWE.













The emerald green canopy, originally designed in 1959 for the Serrano store in Madrid, has been revived using agate stone, creating a radiant ceiling decoration that extends along the street and throughout the interior. Furthermore, the green ceiling and bronze frames combine with Nero Marquina, a black marble imported from Spain, to form a striking cross motif.

Inside, striking accents such as "floating" stone stairs and double-hide curtains made of structured linen enhance the Japanese limestone walls and ceiling, painted in a "Philadelphia cheesecake" hue.

Additionally, meticulously calculated lighting sensually illuminates the space, creating a sense of intimacy, as if one has been invited into a private residence. Particularly captivating are the three large glass lamps, crafted in Murano, Italy, in the mid-20th century. Suspended by the second-floor windows, they cast a warm, soft glow visible from the street at night.

A Collaboration with Hamada Kiln Showcases a Connection with Japanese Culture





To commemorate this opening, ceramic works from "Hamada Kiln," a Mashiko ware pottery studio with three generations of master potters, were also exhibited. Among these, taking center stage are two special pieces, "TIE" and "CUBE," created in collaboration with the third-generation potter Tomoo Hamada, drawing inspiration from LOEWE.

Much like the avant-garde design Javier Carvajal brought to LOEWE, the concept of this new boutique juxtaposes smart and unexpected design elements.





The boutique's furnishings include custom-designed large wooden display tables and select British antiques from the Arts and Crafts movement era. Among these are pieces created for the London department store Liberty and chairs designed by the pioneering artist, designer, and writer William Morris.

Elements that connect to the Maison's past, while asserting contemporary culture. LOEWE's new worldview has taken shape and been expressed for the first time through the store concept "CASA LOEWE."





LOEWE


CASA LOEWE Omotesando Grand Opens


The New LOEWE by Jonathan Anderson (2)



Creative Direction Embracing Tradition and Innovation Simultaneously



Since its founding in 1846, LOEWE has inherited the Maison's core values of craftsmanship, innovation, and unparalleled expertise in leather. Under Jonathan Anderson's creative direction, these brand values are being reborn with a modern sensibility and cultural resonance.

The revitalized LOEWE will present collections for womenswear, menswear, and accessories. Furthermore, embracing the philosophy that "fashion is now a part of culture," the brand plans to launch lifestyle-oriented offerings, including homeware.








To articulate this new vision, the multi-disciplinary design unit M/M (Paris) has taken charge of LOEWE's graphic identity and advertising campaigns.

The original "Anagram" logo, an icon of the Maison, was designed in 1970 by Spanish painter Vicente Vela. It has been simplified to better reflect its original form as a stamp for embossing leather.

Even the product packaging has been redesigned with a smoky white hue reminiscent of academic books, meticulously curated down to the smallest detail.


A notable highlight is the new advertising campaign with photographer Steven Meisel. His 1997 fashion story for Italian Vogue, "An Interpretation," serves as the key element for the campaign visuals.

This approach, which freely interprets the Maison's history and incorporates diverse elements in line with the brand's reconstruction, is particularly inspired by Jonathan Anderson's unique editorial featuring contemporary models based on the paintings of American artist Alex Katz.










Meisel combined his iconic past works with newly shot images. The result is a reinterpretation of masterpieces for contemporary visual culture.

Intertwining Past, Present, and Future



Displayed alongside the campaign visuals are the new LOEWE products. The updated "Amazona" bag, a brand icon, has been modified to return to the timeless appeal of its original trapezoidal form. The new "Flamenco" bag, with its soft texture and fluid lines, is captivatingly presented in the Maison's signature "Oro" color. All elements of the campaign connect with a historical spirit, expressing LOEWE's identity from multiple perspectives.




This approach of showcasing products as objects reflects the belief that "when the boundaries between art and business are removed, fashion shifts into culture." The elements that constitute LOEWE's new collection are not only modern and twisted pieces but are also beautiful enough to be appreciated as works of art.

This marks the beginning of a new phase for the 168-year-old Maison. All of these elements connect the past, present, and future through a new, fashion-centric approach, conveying LOEWE's unique stance.








LOEWE


CASA LOEWE Omotesando Grand Opens


The New LOEWE by Jonathan Anderson (3)



Men's Spring Summer 2015 Presentation Recreating the Paris Collection



The presentation, held at "CASA LOEWE Omotesando" the day before its grand opening, recreated the atmosphere of the presentation held at LOEWE's Saint-Sulpice boutique in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Paris. Models were arranged across the floors from the basement to the second floor, showcasing 30 looks.

The collection, comprising a diverse range of items including ready-to-wear, bags, wallets, shoes, and silk scarves, embodies LOEWE's new worldview. The repeated use of stripes and LOEWE's signature "Oro" color within the collection serves to contextualize and carry forward the brand's history.










Jonathan Anderson describesthe Men's Spring Summer 2015 collectionas a "hyper-normal stylein other words, realistic, functional, and incredibly appealing." Each item reflects a unique and original perspective, with careful consideration and sometimes unexpected detailing.

By assembling blocks of modern attire, items like jackets, jeans, and T-shirts emphasize a natural and confident way of life. Classic designs such as biker jackets and trench coats are reinterpreted to maximize their beauty and functionality.













Throughout the collection, high-grade materials meeting LOEWE's stringent standards are combined with innovative techniques. Furthermore, cutting-edge materials are mixed with traditional napa leather, known for its exceptional softness, ensuring quality that withstands years of heavy use.

Establishing a New Standard for Luxury



In a world of fleeting trends, Jonathan Anderson proposes fashion designed for longevity, while resolutely asserting "modernity." This is culturally conscious clothing that sets a new standard for luxury.It is a unique style that is both timeless and never ordinary, present yet effortless, classic yet contemporary.

We asked Jonathan Anderson, who was in Japan for the presentation, about his vision for LOEWE.



"I wanted to bring LOEWE back to its roots. To give the entire brand image a more relaxed, easy, and cool feel. And I wanted to strengthen the connection between LOEWE and culture.

For example, the furniture in the boutique includes pieces selected from around the world and collaborations with various artists. I want to showcase the essence of LOEWE, which has consistently presented freshness for over 160 years, from all perspectives, not just fashion.

Personally, there haven't been major changes; I'm essentially taking the same approach as with the brands I've designed for previously. This means I'm approaching creation with great excitement."

CASA LOEWE Omotesando
3-5-29 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-5771-4811
http://www.loewe.com/jp_ja/



Jonathan Anderson