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October 8, 2021
An Interview with Motofumi "Poggy" Kogi on Realizing the JIMMY CHOO × ERIC HAZE Collaboration | MEDICOM TOY
MEDICOM TOY
JIMMY CHOO / ERIC HAZE CURATED BY POGGY
A limited-edition collection has arrived from luxury brand Jimmy Choo and artist/designer Eric Haze. The man who made this unexpected pairing a reality was Motofumi “Poggy” Kogi, invited as the guest style curator. The collection, featuring a rich lineup of shoes, bags, and small leather goods, along with BE@RBRICKs, is nothing short of sensational.
Text by SHINNO Kunihiko | Edit by TOMIYAMA Eizaburo
Jimmy Choo and Eric Haze: A Shared Connection Through the "Star"
Sandra Choi, the Creative Director of Jimmy Choo based in London; Eric Haze, the artist/designer based in New York; and Poggy, Japan's leading fashion curator.
These three talented individuals came together to create an innovative collaboration, born from three global cities and three distinct perspectives.
This limited-edition collection merges Jimmy Choo's refined, modern style with Haze's bold, urban aesthetic, offering men's, women's, and unisex shoes, bags, small leather goods, and BE@RBRICKs.
We spoke with Motofumi “Poggy” Kogi, who served as the guest style curator, about this limited-edition collection. We will also share comments from Eric Haze and Sandra Choi.
Motofumi “Poggy” Kogi
Guest Style Curator
A global icon in menswear, bridging streetwear and luxury. He began his fashion career at United Arrows in 1997 and was one of the first buyers to select Jimmy Choo's men's collection. He is now independent, pursuing various activities as a fashion curator.
Why Feature Eric Haze?
— To begin, could you tell us about the inspiration behind this collaboration? We understand you've known Jimmy Choo and Eric Haze for some time.
POGGYI first met Sandra, the Creative Director, about ten years ago when I was a buyer for United Arrows and purchased pieces from the launch of Jimmy Choo's men's collection at their showroom in Milan. Sandra and I are around the same age, and we hit it off immediately, sharing a love for rock music.
I met Eric in the early 2000s when he visited Japan for a solo exhibition organized by a concept shop at SHIPS. Back when I was a vocational school student, I used to wear HAZE T-shirts bought from a local hip-hop store. He's an artist I admire greatly, having created artwork for the Beastie Boys.
Jimmy Choo often uses star studs as an icon. This stems from Sandra's fondness for rock imagery, but Eric also uses stars (classic stars) as his signature motif from a different perspective.
With stars connecting them, and Sandra also being a fan of the Beastie Boys, I felt there were underlying commonalities despite the seemingly disparate nature of the pairing, so I proposed the collaboration. Later, in January of last year, I met Sandra in London, and she immediately visited Eric's studio in New York for a meeting. I was supposed to go afterward, but travel became difficult due to COVID-19, so we proceeded with communication via WhatsApp and other means.
— This collection features a variety of items. As the guest style curator, what aspect did you prioritize the most?
POGGYI believe America represents the pinnacle of casual wear, but Britain has its own distinct charm. There's nowhere else in the world where the pinnacle of gentlemanly culture, exemplified by Savile Row and Jermyn Street, coexists with street culture from areas like Shoreditch and Dalston. I love the blend of American and British influences in music, like Jimi Hendrix, The Rolling Stones, and Big Audio Dynamite, so I wanted to fuse the best of both worlds.
At the same time, I considered the authentic 80s for Eric and the 90s, which influenced both Sandra and me. The 80s were a time when Keith Haring wore sneakers with tuxedos, and in Japan, there were trends like American casual trad loafers and tote bags. I proposed that it would be interesting to mix these atmospheres, and Jimmy Choo handled the final design.
Eric's Idea: "I Want to Make a BE@RBRICK Like a Lamp"
— The inclusion of BE@RBRICK in this limited-edition collection is quite a surprise. Was this also your suggestion?
POGGYYes. For a long time, women have had the desire to own a large closet filled with shoes, haven't they? In recent years, it's become a trend among men overseas to display their favorite art and art toys alongside their collection of trendy sneakers in their closets. This is perhaps more challenging in Japan due to housing constraints.
Medicom Toy has a history of supporting artists from the street art scene, and Eric and I had previously collaborated on one-off pieces and 100% BE@RBRICKs. I thought it would be great to create 400% and 1000% versions at this time. Sandra was also familiar with BE@RBRICK, so the idea to create them was met with enthusiasm.
Eric proposed the idea, saying, "I want to make a BE@RBRICK like a lamp." He thought it would be nice to have something that could be displayed in a closet. Therefore, the 1000% version can be continuously lit via USB connection, rather than batteries.
Not only does it illuminate, but the lamp is shaped like a classic star, and the transparent parts feature a glossy finish on Eric's artwork. This was born from discussions about incorporating "glamour," a keyword that Sandra cherishes for Jimmy Choo, into the BE@RBRICK. The process of applying this finish and printing was quite challenging.
Sandra, Eric, and everyone involved are extremely satisfied with the finished BE@RBRICK.
The Unique Techniques of Women's Collections Are Intriguing
— With this collection as a catalyst, what kind of expansion are you hoping for?
POGGYAmong luxury brands, Jimmy Choo is perhaps on the more conservative side. I hope this collection serves as an opportunity for people to become interested in things beyond just shoes.
Personally, I'm fond of the tote bags. I'd highly recommend them to OPENERS readers. While Jimmy Choo is a strong women's brand, and at first glance, you might not recognize Eric Haze's artwork, it's actually expressed through techniques unique to women's collections, such as embroidery or slightly raised puff prints. The sneakers also have a subtle glitter mixed into the soles. I found the incorporation of women's techniques particularly interesting, as a men's collection might lean towards a more conservative approach.
The reason I initially liked Jimmy Choo's men's collection was their approach of incorporating glamorous elements into basic items like plain-toe oxfords and Chelsea boots. Many of HAZE's clothing designs from the 90s also featured his artwork on basic items, so I aimed for an updated version of that. It felt like my involvement was to bring it closer to what's essential for men's fashion.
Jimmy Choo is also UK-based, so they have a deep respect for the fundamentals. Jimmy Choo himself, Sandra's uncle, was a shoemaker and apparently said, "Plain-toe oxfords are crucial for men's footwear." Sandra also mentioned, "Men's plain-toe oxfords are the ultimate party shoes," and I agree. Shoes are indeed essential when attending parties that verge on formal occasions. I feel this sensibility is uniquely London.
ERIC HAZE
Artist & Graphic Designer
A global artist based in NY. Often mentioned alongside Keith Haring and Basquiat, his art, deeply rooted in street and hip-hop culture, is highly popular worldwide, especially in Tokyo.
I'm Very Happy with the BE@RBRICK – I Love It
— What is the meaning behind the "star" motif?
ERICI've used stars as my graphic identity for a long time. Whether writing my name or drawing abstract images, I've naturally incorporated stars. For the past decade or so, I've intentionally differentiated between the star as a graphic icon and the star in my brand logo.
Stars are both my personal icon and a tool for artistic expression.
— What are your thoughts on BE@RBRICK, and what do you appreciate about it?
ERICI think BE@RBRICK is remarkable for elevating toys into art objects. Medicom Toy has significantly increased the market value of art collaborations. I've collaborated with them several times before, and I'm honored to work with them again.
— What was your focus when designing this BE@RBRICK?
ERICThis is my third collaboration with BE@RBRICK. The previous two were with my own brand. This is the first time it's a three-way collaboration, including Jimmy Choo, and the design process was more democratic, involving Sandra and Poggy.
Released February 2005
BE@RBRICK WORLD WIDE TOUR
Included in BE@RBRICK 10 PC SET (B)
Not for sale
Released December 2010
BE@RBRICK SERIES 21 (Closed Type)
Not for sale
© ERIC HAZE
BE@RBRICK TM & © 2001-2021 MEDICOM TOY CORPORATION. All rights reserved.
— What are your thoughts on the finished BE@RBRICK?
ERICI think it's very cool, and I love it. This is the first model where we were able to add internal lighting. The exterior artwork resembles abstract paintings, while the interior graphically represents the star icon's identity.
I also appreciate that the overall design is kept in monochrome.
My previous BE@RBRICKs used pop colors, but this one is elegantly finished. It faithfully reproduces the high-end "street luxury" that the JIMMY CHOO / ERIC HAZE CURATED BY POGGY collection embodies, while also expressing the individuality of the three of us.
This process was a truly creative collaboration from the start. We have mutual respect for each other, so it all came together very naturally in the end.
— Where would you like to place it?
ERICIt depends on the size. The 100% is suitable for small display spaces, and the 400% is perfect for a regular shelf. Of course, the 1000% can simply be placed on the floor in a room if it's clean, or it would look great on a table or a larger display stand.
The 1000% I hand-painted for the first "BE@RBRICK WORLD WIDE TOUR" is still displayed in my showroom, along with many other 3D objects and design projects I've worked on.
SANDRA CHOI
Creative Director at JIMMY CHOO
She began her career at the brand in her teens, training under her uncle, Jimmy Choo, and mastering the know-how required for couture shoemaking. Since the establishment of JIMMY CHOO in 1996, she has served as Creative Director.
The Theme of This Collection Was "Chasing Star"
— What is the meaning behind the "star" motif?
SANDRAThe star is one of the brand's emblems and is linked to jewelry, giving the design multiple facets.
When I first discussed the collection's artwork with Eric, he mentioned that his signature style involved stars, which became the backbone of the project. Using stars in the design felt like it perfectly unified all our ideas.
With the theme of this collection being "Chasing Star," the star motif truly ties everything together.
— What are your thoughts on BE@RBRICK, and what do you appreciate about it?
SANDRAI see BE@RBRICK as an iconic collector's item, an art object, and something everyone desires to own. This project has added another layer to that, strengthening the bond between the three of us.
— What was your focus when designing this BE@RBRICK?
SANDRAI wanted it to have a transparency that reflects light, much like the crystals Jimmy Choo cherishes. It shimmers with iridescent colors, and inside, there's a light-emitting asteroid. It's as if you're looking into a jewel to see the twinkle of a star.
— What are your thoughts on the finished BE@RBRICK?
SANDRAI'm so glad I could work on this with Eric and Poggy to bring it to life! I'm also very pleased with the wonderful outcome.
— Where would you like to place this BE@RBRICK?
SANDRAI plan to display it at home. I own quite a few art pieces, and I intend to place it between Rob Pruitt's angel and devil minaudieres and Jeff Koons' pink metallic monkey and rabbit piggy banks.
The collection (excluding the BE@RBRICK) is scheduled to be released starting October 11th at Jimmy Choo boutiques nationwide (excluding some stores) and the official online boutique, as well as at 2G and KITH TOKYO.
BE@RBRICK JIMMY CHOO 100% & 400% / 1000%
Size | Approx. 70mm / 280mm / 700mm tall each
Price | [100% & 400%] ¥29,700 (tax included) / [1000%] ¥132,000 (tax included)
Release Date | Limited quantities available from October 16th at the official Jimmy Choo online boutique, 2G, and others.
BE@RBRICK TM & ©︎ 2001-2021 MEDICOM TOY CORPORATION. All rights reserved.
2G TOKYO
Address | Shibuya PARCO 2F, 15-1 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Business Hours | 11:00 - 20:00
Business hours may be shortened for the time being to prevent the spread of COVID-19.
Regular Holidays | Irregular
TEL | 03-6452-5003
2G OSAKA
Address | Shinsaibashi PARCO 2F, 1-8-3 Shinsaibashisuji, Chuo-ku, Osaka
Business Hours | 10:00 - 20:00
Business hours may be shortened for the time being to prevent the spread of COVID-19.
Regular Holidays | Irregular
TEL | 06-4256-3997
How to Purchase from the Official JIMMY CHOO Online Boutique
1. Please add the official JIMMY CHOO LINE account as a friend.
2. Access the special signup page URL provided in the welcome message and complete your registration.
3. JIMMY CHOO will send an email with a URL for the special purchase page to those who have registered.
4. Access the special purchase page and complete your order.
Official JIMMY CHOO LINE Account QR Code
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