Truefitt and Hill | Monitor Report | Masaharu Nabata (Watch Writer) _ Vol. 2
Beauty
May 11, 2015

Truefitt and Hill | Monitor Report | Masaharu Nabata (Watch Writer) _ Vol. 2


Truefitt & Hill Monitor Report


Masahata Seiji (Watch Writer)_Vol.2


A Decadent Gentleman Encounters the "Ultimate Pleasure" (2)


While using Truefitt & Hill's grooming goods, I was suddenly reminded of a men's fashion book I acquired several years ago. That thick volume expounded on the principles of men's fashion, starting with grooming.

Photos and text by Seiji Masahata




Grooming is the Mark of a Gentleman



Here lies a thick book, over 350 pages long. It is "Gentleman Fashion: A Guide to the Gentleman" (by Bernhard Roetzel, translated by Emiko Iizumi, published by Kūnemann). First published in Germany in 1999, with a Japanese edition appearing in 2001, its first chapter (excluding the preface, etc.) is "Beard Care." Next is "Hair." Then it proceeds sequentially to "Underwear," "Dress Shirts," and "Ties," discussing apparel items.

What surprised me most when I first picked up this book was that "Beard Care" was introduced at the very beginning. Furthermore, I was astonished that it meticulously explained the importance and care of a gentleman's beard, with sections like "Home Beard Care," "At the Barber's," and "Mastering Wet Shaving," and concluded the chapter with basic knowledge of fragrances and perfumes from famous brands.

In other words, the author, Mr. Roetzel (a German fashion journalist), argues that a gentleman must first attend to the foundations.

There have been many excellent books on men's fashion. For example, Alan Flusser, an American fashion designer (or perhaps stylist?) whom I admire, wrote "CLOTHES AND THE MAN" (published in 1988; the Japanese title was "Alan Flusser's Orthodox Fashion Theory" but it is out of print). Its first chapter discusses the 1930s style, when men's fashion reached its peak of elegance, and does not specifically dedicate chapters to beard or hair care.

Well, this might be a difference in perspective, but I would like to offer my highest praise for Mr. Roetzel's sensibility. After all, as I mentioned last time, I have been passionate about wet shaving with a classical shaving mug and a straight razor since my university days.

Moreover, I later acquired a reprinted catalog from the late 19th century, published by "KOKEN BARBER'S SUPPLY COMPANY," a US manufacturer of barber supplies from St. Louis, at a used bookstore in Jinbocho. I was captivated by the classical barber chairs and beautifully colored shaving mugs introduced in it. As a barber goods enthusiast, a fashion book that emphasizes beard and hair care is precisely the kind of book I've been looking for.

Therefore, when I held Truefitt & Hill's grooming goods, it goes without saying that I felt an irresistible charm in the presence of the shaving mug and shaving brush, which carry on British tradition.


A beautiful shaving mug featured in the "KOKEN BARBER'S SUPPLY COMPANY" catalog. There is even an association of mug collectors in America.



British Tradition Embodied in the Items



Among Truefitt & Hill's items, what particularly captured my heart was the cologne from "Trafalgar," one of the company's signature scents. Its blue liquid was housed in a small bottle of moist-feeling smoked glass, and I was captivated by the refreshing blue tone reminiscent of the open sea, and the gold accents on the label and cap.

As its name suggests, this scent, "Trafalgar," is named after the "Battle of Trafalgar," where Britain achieved a great victory over the combined fleets of France and Spain. The "Battle of Trafalgar" was a naval engagement fought off Cape Trafalgar, Spain, on October 21, 1805.

It was alongside this fateful victory that "Truefitt & Hill," known as the "world's oldest barber shop," was established in London, and the fragrance "Trafalgar" was created to commemorate this significant event.


"Gentleman Fashion: A Guide to the Gentleman," which introduces the joy of visiting a barber and the method of wet shaving. The Japanese edition is out of print, but the English version can be obtained affordably (available on US Amazon, etc.).



A Refreshing Scent Inspired by "Victory"



When I apply this cologne, the first scent that rises is a spicy citrus aroma. As time passes, it softens and eventually transforms into a slightly sweet herbal scent, such as lavender. Beyond that, it transitions into a calming and clean fragrance centered on sandalwood.

I like this! When people think of men's fragrances, they often associate them with heavy, animalic scents, but I prefer the crispness of "Trafalgar," which also calms my mood. However, this scent is by no means weak, nor does it possess the cheapness of a car air freshener, making it perfect as a fragrance for the mature man.

And, as I mentioned last time, I highly appreciate that not only the cologne but also aftershave balms and other products are available in the same scent.

Is Cohesion the Key to Perfume?


This way, you won't be disappointed by the scent changing every time you apply cologne, cream, or lotion.

Some people say, "A man's fashion should be limited to a maximum of three colors." I do not subscribe to this theory at all. I believe that incorporating as many colors as one likes and styling them is the spirit of a man. However, when it comes to fragrance, I want to maintain as much consistency as possible. In that sense, I strongly support Truefitt & Hill's style and intend to continue using their products for a long time to come.

Truefitt & Hill