Beauty
May 11, 2015
Truefitt and Hill | Monitor Report | Kaori Nakano (Fashion Historian, Project Professor at Meiji University) _ Vol. 3
Truefitt and Hill Monitor Report
Kaori Nakano (Fashion Historian, Professor at Meiji University)_Vol.3
Discussing the Scents of 'SPANISH LEATHER', 'FRESHMAN', and 'CLUBMAN'
This third and final installment of the Truefitt and Hill fragrance monitor report features 'SPANISH LEATHER', 'FRESHMAN', and 'CLUBMAN'. Once again, I will delve into the world of gentlemen conjured by Truefitt and Hill's fragrances.
Text and photos by Kaori Nakano
SPANISH LEATHER
Among the seven fragrances, this is the most nocturnal, Latin, and overtly sensual, a rich and opulent masculine scent. It is said to recreate the spirit of old Castile and Granada. While Spanish cordovan leather (derived from the hindquarters of a horse) is often imagined as more festive and sweeter, more spicy than its English counterpart, this 'Spanish Leather' seems to perfectly capture that image. In fact, it's downright erotic. The immediate image that comes to mind is Clark Gable in his 'Gone with the Wind' era, hair slicked back with pomade.
Speaking of Castile, it brings 'Carmen' to mind, but this fragrance seems suited for a man with a high Latin blood count, brimming with confidence, ready to meet the bold and passionate challenge of a Carmen-esque woman. Alternatively, if this intensely animalic scent were to subtly emanate from a man who appears outwardly calm and reserved, many women might be captivated by the unexpected contrast. In any case, a certain level of physical and mental fortitude is surely required to match the scent's strong personality.


FRESHMAN
It struck me as similar to a past blockbuster perfume... CK One? Eternity? But 'Freshman' was composed in 1805, so it's the original. The fact that fragrances with a similar tone have appeared repeatedly suggests that this is a scent profile that is deeply cherished. Citrus notes like lemon and bergamot are warmly embraced by sage and jasmine, finally melting into woods and musk for a smooth, settled finish. True to its name, 'Freshman' evokes a young man visiting the exclusive world of a gentleman's club for the first time, desperately trying to fit in, yet striving not to show his effort. If Prince Harry, the younger son of the British royal family, smelled like this, I'd be delighted. Curiously, this was the fragrance that diminished the fastest during the monitoring period. I discovered why when my eldest son, a 17-year-old high school student, became completely enamored with it and used it liberally every day (laughs).


CLUBMAN
The name 'Clubman' apparently originates from the members of an exclusive gentlemen's club in the 1850s. With a punchy blend of citrus and mint, it's floral yet woody... It possesses a complex depth that defies easy categorization, yet it harmonizes into a clean, warm, and sophisticated urban scent. My mind conjured David Niven, a man unparalleled in portraying the quintessential gentleman. In 'Around the World in 80 Days', David Niven boasts in his gentlemen's club that he can circumnavigate the globe in 80 days, wagers his entire fortune, and embarks on a daring adventure with his valet, Passepartout. He navigates the ensuing mishaps with unwavering gentlemanly composure and returns to the club with style, ultimately aided by luck. Boldness and planning, composure and generosity, execution and good fortune. Isn't an exclusive clubman someone who effortlessly embodies all these qualities? It evokes such a man of impeccable breeding.
Incidentally, at a certain gentlemen's club in the 19th century, when a new member applied for admission, all existing members would vote with white balls (for acceptance) or black balls (for rejection) to decide whether to admit the newcomer. Even a single black ball meant rejection. This 'Clubman' scent, in a way, seems to repel black balls – that is, it doesn't evoke feelings of jealousy, envy, or contempt in others. It's the fragrance of an 'elite' – the chosen few.


Concluding the Truefitt and Hill Monitor Report...
The seven fragrances from Truefitt and Hill, each with its distinct personality, vividly evoked seven archetypes of the classic gentleman. The reason gentlemen have remained an enduring ideal for men over centuries is that the definition of a gentleman has been reinterpreted with the times. While the 'hardware' – social and economic status – may remain constant, the somewhat ambiguous 'software' adapts flexibly to each era. This core of steadfast resilience is the secret to a gentleman's strength.
Truefitt and Hill itself has reportedly made subtle adjustments to its fragrance compositions and bottle designs over the years. While steadfastly preserving the fundamentals, they have flexibly adapted where necessary to suit the times. By sensitively responding to the changing eras, they have managed to remain consistently trusted and beloved, neither becoming 'dated' nor being treated as disposable 'fads'. Truly a fragrance befitting a gentleman.
