Beauty
May 11, 2015
Truefitt and Hill | Monitor Report | Kaori Nakano (Fashion Historian, Project Professor at Meiji University) _ Vol. 2
Truefitt and Hill Monitor Report
Kaori Nakano (Fashion Historian, Professor at Meiji University)_Vol.2
A Discussion of the Scents of 'WEST INDIAN LIMES' and 'GRAFTON'
This second installment of the Truefitt and Hill fragrance monitor report features 'WEST INDIAN LIMES' and 'GRAFTON'. Once again, I will discuss the world of gentlemen that unfolds in my mind, thanks to the effects of Truefitt and Hill's fragrances.
Text and Photos by Kaori Nakano
WEST INDIAN LIMES
One of my go-to summer fragrances is 'Mediterraneo' by Carthusia, a brand that evokes the scent of 'Mediterranean sea breeze and lemon' (coincidentally, it was also featured in OPENERS!). To be perfectly honest, I almost wish it hadn't become so well-known, as it was my secret weapon. My initial impression of this fragrance was that it belonged to the same family. It's a scent with a high refreshing effect, like tightly squeezed limes and lemons carried on a sea breeze. However, with 'West Indian Lime', the sharp initial aroma eventually blends subtly with oakmoss, leaving a lingering, sophisticated freshness. It evokes a man who effortlessly maintains his youthful spirit despite his age, or a young man who possesses a striking, composed demeanor. It's a fragrance for a man who embodies both youth and maturity.
The name 'West Indian Lime' apparently commemorates the coronation of Queen Victoria as 'Empress of India' in 1876. Ah, I see, so the image is Disraeli, then. A prime minister of Jewish descent who was also a novelist, and a politician favored by Queen Victoria for his charismatic flair. It was none other than Benjamin Disraeli who conceived the grand event of the 'Coronation Durbar' to console, flatter, and encourage the Queen, who was in prolonged mourning after the loss of her husband, Albert, and bring her back into the public eye.
A romantic yet pragmatic, a masterful flatterer yet a shrewd gambler. For instance, when acquiring Suez Canal shares, he navigated the situation with the audacity of a gambler. In 1875, while dining at the home of the Rothschilds, with whom he shared a bond as fellow Jews, Disraeli learned that the sale of Egyptian Suez Canal shares was being considered by France. France had not yet responded. Disraeli immediately decided to purchase them, but the British Parliament was in recess, and he could not secure approval for the £4 million needed. So, he approached Rothschild for a loan. The collateral? None other than 'the British Empire'. This might be a major issue today, but he ultimately won this gamble, making a significant contribution to the prosperity of the British Empire. How cool is that?
Such was Disraeli's charm that he was also a ladies' man, particularly with older, more established women. Queen Victoria was one, and his beloved wife was 12 years his senior (and a wealthy widow with a strong personality). Hmm, I imagine women like that would indeed be drawn to a younger man who combines youth and maturity, recklessness and shrewdness. 'West Indian Lime' might lend a subtle power to men hoping to get closer to older, more accomplished women (no guarantees, of course).


GRAFTON
A quintessential macho scent. Testosterone, rich and potent. It's a 'manly' fragrance with no room for feminine intrusion. Lavender takes center stage, followed by a gentle, incense-like aroma that evokes the inner calm of a middle-aged man who battles fiercely in the outside world.
Grafton refers to 'HMS Grafton', a British naval warship that has been in service since the 17th century. This fragrance, created in 1983, seems to have been inspired by a suggestion from an officer of this warship, who was a customer of Truefitt and Hill. I can understand how it appeals to men who inhabit a world without women. My immediate image was, for some reason, the 'Iron Lady', former British Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher. If she were a man, she would surely have worn a scent like this.
For a truly authentic man, the image that comes to mind is perhaps Gladstone. William Ewart Gladstone. He served as Prime Minister four times, for a total of 15 years, during the Victorian era. He worked energetically, sleeping only 3-4 hours a day, and displayed brilliant political acumen, but he was also famously fond of prostitutes and meticulously recorded the names of those he negotiated with in his diary... In any case, he was a man of immense energy, who seemed to expend it generously (or perhaps not?) in both his public and private life. Incidentally, the large travel bag that opens wide on both sides is named the 'Gladstone bag' after this politician. Men who pride themselves on having a large capacity for life might find a good match with this kind of fragrance.


Next time,We will discuss the scents of 'SPANISH LEATHER', 'FRESHMAN', and 'CLUBMAN'(Scheduled for release on June 2nd)
