WATCH & JEWELRY /
WATCH NEWS
April 21, 2020
Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887 | BREGUET
BREGUET
A sporty complication watch inheriting the legacy of the tourbillon invented by Breguet.
The "Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887" combines the bold, sporty design that has always characterized the "Marine" collection with a highly complex movement and exquisite hand-finished decoration. This timepiece is also characterized by its mechanisms and design, based on three legacies derived from Breguet's history.
Text by OZAKI Sayaka｜Edit by TSUCHIDA Takashi
A fusion of bold, sporty design and complex mechanics
The first is the legacy of the tourbillon, invented by founder Abraham-Louis Breguet and patented in 1801. The tourbillon is important as an unparalleled heritage in the field of complex watches, but this timepiece is equipped not only with a new generation tourbillon but also with a perpetual calendar and an equation of time display. While housing these complex mechanisms together, it has been crafted into a timepiece that evokes the appointment of founder Abraham-Louis Breguet as Royal Horologer to the Kingdom, or official watchmaker to the French Navy, by King Louis XVIII in 1815.
The connection between the "Marine" collection and the sea is emphasized by the guilloché wave pattern at the center of the dial. The case back is engraved with the image of the "Royal Louis," a former flagship of the French Navy, across the movement bridges. The full view of the ship spans four bridges, with delicate details unfolding from one bridge to the next.
Extremely precise work is required to arrange the elements of the image so that they align perfectly when the movement is assembled. The barrel cover is not only hand-engraved with a compass rose motif, but the platinum peripheral rotor also features Breguet's traditional guilloché, allowing the artwork of the movement to be admired without obstruction from corner to corner.
At the center of the movement is a sapphire crystal disc that faithfully reproduces the cycle of the equation of time, completing one revolution per year. This transparent disc is marked with a 12-month scale around its periphery, allowing a view of the tourbillon mechanism beneath it.
The movement powering this grand complication is derived from the ultra-thin automatic tourbillon caliber 581. The basic design concept of the tourbillon continues to follow the principle patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet: a carriage housing the balance wheel, hairspring, and escapement that regulate the watch's rate, which rotates once per minute to counteract errors caused by gravity. At the same time, the tourbillon's design incorporates modern technologies such as a titanium carriage and balance wheel, and a silicon escapement.
Furthermore, the tourbillon mechanism itself has been redesigned, with the carriage driven by a peripheral gear, creating an appearance as if the entire tourbillon and its components are floating in mid-air. Simultaneously, Breguet's designers pursued a reduction in thickness, making improvements such as adding a new groove around the barrel and using this groove to support the barrel with three bearing assemblies from the outside, resulting in a 25% reduction in thickness. This model, with its enhanced precision and aesthetic appeal through the ingenuity of Breguet's watchmakers and artisans, is scheduled to be available in Japan from April 2020.
Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887
Ref.｜5887BR/G2/9WV
Movement｜Self-winding (Caliber 581DPE)
Power Reserve｜80 hours
Case Material｜18KRG
Case Diameter｜43.9mm
Strap Material｜Alligator leather
Water Resistance｜10 bar
Price｜¥23,280,000 (excluding tax)
