Movements That Showcase the Manufacture's Prowess

SIHH, the watch fair where prestigious maisons gather in Geneva, Switzerland, to present their new collections for the year. Brands are meticulously preparing for this major event that dictates the latest trends in wristwatches. As the fair draws near, an increasing number of brands are opting for early previews of their new creations.

Cartier, a key player at SIHH, has taken the lead by releasing a selection of its January novelties in advance. One is a skeleton watch that allows for an aesthetic appreciation of its mechanical movement, and the other is a complex mechanical watch for ladies, imbued with a poetic narrative. Both timepieces are equipped with ambitious in-house movements, serving as testaments to Cartier's expertise as a watch manufacture.

Skeleton Model Debuts for Clé de Cartier

Launched as a new collection in 2015, the "Clé de Cartier" has garnered significant attention with its distinctive crown, reminiscent of a "key" (clé in French), and its classic, elegant oval case. In addition to basic three-hand models, the collection, which also includes tourbillon and mystery hours variations, now welcomes a new skeleton version.

The watch dial appears to be designed with large Roman numerals at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions. However, this is not a dial in the traditional sense. The baseplate of the Caliber 9621MC movement has been etched to resemble a dial. Furthermore, the bridges on the case back have also been thoroughly skeletonized, and the 22K gold rotor features a bold design. At first glance, one might not realize it's an automatic winding watch, even when admiring the movement through the exhibition case back.

The shape, thickness, and weight of the rotor have been meticulously calculated to ensure optimal winding efficiency. This automatic movement masterfully balances superior mechanics with artistic design, resulting in a creation worthy of the term 'masterpiece.' It is a gem that will undoubtedly solidify the popularity of this collection in its second year.

Page02.A Dial That Paints a Poetic Story

A Dial That Paints a Poetic Story

Mechanical watches for ladies are rare, and complication watches are even rarer. Consequently, complex mechanisms for women's timepieces are often refined further, unfolding worlds of poetic charm. The "Panthère et Colibri Watch" is one such complication designed for ladies.

Panthère means panther, and colibri means hummingbird in French. The dial features a panther, crafted from 18K white gold, brilliant-cut diamonds, and black lacquer, with a pear-shaped body, depicted in repose alongside a hummingbird finished in gold.

The time display is discreetly positioned at the 10 o'clock mark on the dial. Combined with the diamond-set case, it exudes a luxurious aura befitting a ladies' model.

However, pressing the crown at 3 o'clock dramatically transforms the dial's appearance. A cub, rendered in gold, emerges from the panther's chest, and as if startled, a hummingbird takes flight towards the 12 o'clock position. In fact, the hummingbird doubles as a power reserve indicator; its movement varies according to the remaining spring tension (the closer to 12 o'clock, the greater the power reserve).

The Caliber 9915MC, which ingeniously integrates the playful interaction of the panther family and the hummingbird like an automaton, showcases an exquisite mechanical movement. It is a poetic and artistic creation that spins a delightful story on the dial.