Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Discusses the Appeal of the New Geophysic Collection | JAEGER-LECOULTRE
WATCH NEWS
October 14, 2015

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Discusses the Appeal of the New Geophysic Collection | JAEGER-LECOULTRE


JAEGER-LECOULTRE


First for Jaeger-LeCoultre, on sale from October 1st


Global Launch of New "Geophysic" Collection (1)


Daniel Riedo, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, a prestigious manufacture with one of Switzerland's finest movement development capabilities, visited Japan just before the WATCHES & WONDERS watch fair in Hong Kong, targeting Asia. We spoke with him about new products, Jaeger-LeCoultre's strategy, and the brand's future. We also received significant news regarding the Japanese market.

Photographs by KISHIDA KatsynoriText by KAWADA Akinori




CEO Daniel Riedo, an Engineer by Training


It has been two years since you took office as CEO in 2013. Today, I primarily want to hear about Jaeger-LeCoultre's new products and future, but before that, could you tell us about yourself, Mr. Riedo? What kind of career have you had?

My involvement with the watch industry began when I studied precision mechanical engineering at university. In Switzerland, studying precision mechanical engineering means starting your professional life as an engineer in the watch industry. After graduating, I immediately began my career as an engineer at Rolex. I have a somewhat unusual background; although I studied at a technical university, I also studied finance. This proved useful when I became a manager in production, and it is also beneficial here at Jaeger-LeCoultre.

I understand you also had a considerable career at Rolex. What are the differences in the watches and concepts of the two companies?

Rolex always pursued cutting-edge technology. Jaeger-LeCoultre, on the other hand, is a resident of the world of traditional artistic techniques. Of course, we keep pace with the latest advancements in precision manufacturing technology and material technology for parts, but we place great emphasis on the Métiers d'Art (artisanal crafts) cultivated through history. We pursue artistic elements like enamel and engraving at the highest level.

This is because the savoir-faire, passed down through generations, is maintained within the company. Maintaining traditional techniques is also challenging. Absorbing the savoir-faire of skilled artisans who are nearing retirement is a constant challenge. It is as significant a challenge for Jaeger-LeCoultre as introducing advanced technologies like precision processing machines using lasers.

That explains why Jaeger-LeCoultre's lineup feels so diverse.

Yes, Jaeger-LeCoultre's product range is indeed very wide. Our mission to train people capable of creating everything from simple models to complex models called "Hybris Mechanica" and artistic models called "Hybris Artistica" is a very weighty one. At the same time, we want our customers to "grow" with us.

Geophysic 1958

Geophysic True Second


Customers buying their first mechanical watch often choose a simple model, and from there, we want them to learn about various watchmaking technologies. Then, we hope they will turn their attention to Jaeger-LeCoultre watches and experience the world of the precise "Hybris Mechanica" and "Hybris Artistica."

In that case, it's important to have watches that appeal to entry-level customers, not just the high-end market. For example, are you also planning to strengthen your women's watch offerings?

Broadening the base of customers and watch enthusiasts is always a major objective. Therefore, we are also focusing on women's watches. Rather than "strengthening," it's about "creation." For a watch brand, women's models should not be simply smaller versions of men's watches. We have the technical expertise to develop women's watches from scratch. That's why we want people to experience mechanical women's watches like the "Rendez-vous."

Page02.What is the new "Geophysic" announced at WATCHES & WONDERS?




JAEGER-LECOULTRE


First for Jaeger-LeCoultre, on sale from October 1st


Global Launch of New "Geophysic" Collection (2)




What is the new "Geophysic" announced at WATCHES & WONDERS?


Could you tell us about the new products to be announced at WATCHES & WONDERS?

Currently, Jaeger-LeCoultre has six collections. At this WATCHES & WONDERS, we will be unveiling our seventh collection. While the "Geophysic 1958" was released as a limited edition at SIHH 2015, we are establishing "Geophysic" as a completely new collection.

That's big news. Could you tell us about the features of this new "Geophysic"?



The current lineup has "Hybris Mechanica" and "Hybris Artistica" at the highest tier, followed by the "Duomètre" with its Dual-Wing mechanism, and then the "Master" collection, which can be considered our flagship. This new collection will sit between "Duomètre" and "Master" in terms of mechanism, with a sporty design, targeting a new customer base. We aim to win over those with a strong interest in watch mechanisms with the substance of our watches.

So, it will feature a new mechanism.

The "Geophysic True Second" is equipped with the entirely new movement Caliber 770. This is an automatic winding movement and features a gold rotor, similar to "Hybris Mechanica." This model is a simple three-hander. Additionally, we are offering the "Geophysic Universal Time" with Caliber 772, a world time complication.


Geophysic Universal Time


Are there any particular new features that stand out?

Firstly, even the three-hand model uses 275 parts, comparable to a chronograph. The balance wheel does not have a balance rim like conventional watches. Instead, it has a bar-shaped style with weights shaped like "JL" at both ends and adjustment screws set within them. This reduces the weight of the balance wheel and air resistance, allowing the entire escapement mechanism to move more freely, improving accuracy and power reserve.

That's a significant innovation. However, requiring as many as 275 parts suggests a rather complex mechanism, doesn't it?

Yes. The seconds hand advances in one-second jumps, a step motion. Other brands call this a "jumping second," but we call it "True Second." This is a mechanism that utilizes a hairspring, with know-how established in the 19th century, which we have updated for the modern era.

Within the movement, there is a separate hairspring mechanism for the "True Second," distinct from the escapement. Furthermore, this model will be simultaneously available at authorized retailers worldwide, including Japan, on October 1st, immediately following its announcement at WATCHES & WONDERS.

Geophysic 1958

Geophysic True Second


That's surprising. I'm also looking forward to seeing it in person. Furthermore, it seems there is great potential for developing other watches based on this, wouldn't you agree?

Yes, it's a movement that holds great promise for the future, and we expect it to serve as a base movement for complications. We are always considering such continuity. For example, the peripheral rotor automatic winding mechanism used in the minute repeater announced in 2014 can be viewed through the see-through case back and allows for a thinner profile, so we are considering its application in tourbillons and other complications.

Page03.Jaeger-LeCoultre's Strategy




JAEGER-LECOULTRE


First for Jaeger-LeCoultre, on sale from October 1st


Global Launch of New "Geophysic" Collection (3)




Jaeger-LeCoultre's Strategy in Japan


I'd like to ask about the future direction as well.

We want to broaden the range of products that are easy for customers to pick up. Not only the development of "Geophysic" with its simple exterior and complex interior, but we are also considering how to make the complex mechanical watches "Hybris Mechanica" and "Hybris Artistica" more accessible models, and we want to expand the share of mechanical watches for women.

Regarding making Jaeger-LeCoultre better known, are you considering any new developments for the Japanese market?

In fact, we are preparing for the opening of our first directly managed boutique in Japan, scheduled for spring 2016. For example, the movement of the "True Second" mechanism in the new "Geophysic" is easier to understand and more appealing to customers when seen in person. We want to create more opportunities in Japan for people to experience our many complications. We aim to make the directly managed boutique a place where the mechanisms and artistry of our watches can be communicated more effectively. We will be able to announce details, such as the opening date, soon.

That's very exciting. I look forward to Jaeger-LeCoultre's world of technology and artistry becoming more accessible. Finally, do you have a message for Japanese watch fans?

Japan has a large number of highly discerning watch fans. We want these customers to experience more of Jaeger-LeCoultre's products. With the new "Geophysic" collection from WATCHES & WONDERS and our directly managed boutique, we will continue to move forward to meet your expectations.

Geophysic True Second



Geophysic True Second
Case | Stainless steel
Diameter | 39.6mm
Thickness | 11.7mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal. 770)
Functions | Date display, True Second mechanism with step motion seconds hand
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 5 bar
Price | ¥1,025,000 (excluding tax)




Geophysic Universal Time



Geophysic Universal Time
Case | 18K pink gold
Diameter | 41.6mm
Thickness | 11.84mm
Movement | Automatic (Cal. 772)
Functions | World time (displays time in 24 time zones). Date display. True Beat mechanism with step motion seconds hand.
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 5 bar
Price | ¥2,850,000 (excluding tax)




Geophysic Universal Time



DANIEL RIEDO
CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Studied precision mechanical engineering and finance at university, then joined Rolex. After building a career at Rolex and Tudor, he moved to Jaeger-LeCoultre as Industrial Manager. Assumed his current position in 2013.




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http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com




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