BVLGARI | The Bulgari Watchmaker's Spirit Revealed in the Revival of Diagono

BVLGARI | Bulgari

An Interview with Bulgari's Designer, Fabrizio Bonamassa

Bulgari's Watchmaking Spirit Revealed in the Return of Diagono

Baselworld 2015 saw Bulgari unveil new creations, including the 40th anniversary of the Bulgari Roma, marking a year rich with highlights. Yet, the revival of the Diagono, which served as the foundation for a groundbreaking concept watch with an electronic passport function, was a particularly striking event. This was not merely a reissue; it was an innovation showcasing Bulgari's evolution as a watchmaker. We spoke with Fabrizio Bonamassa, Senior Director of Bulgari Watch Design Centre and the key figure behind the Diagono's return, to reflect on its revival.

Photographs by NAGASHIMA TohruText by KAWADA Akinori

Evolved Design and Materials: The Essence of Bulgari

Bulgari's Watchmaking Spirit Revealed in the Return of Diagono | BVLGARI

—2015 appears to be a special year in Bulgari's history of development. Could you tell us which models should we pay particular attention to?

This year marked a significant milestone: 40 years since Bulgari's watchmaking truly began. Naturally, the memorial models for the pioneering Bulgari Roma play a major part. And we are proud that the "Diagono" possesses an impact no less significant.Diagono Magnesiumis.

—Regarding the "Diagono," one cannot help but be drawn to the concept model.

Of course, it's natural for attention to focus on the concept model, which equipped an automatic movement with an unprecedented electronic passport function. However, the regular model that serves as its base is also an exceptionally accomplished timepiece. Originally, the "Diagono" lineup included the high-spec diver's watch "Diagono Scuba", as well as the "Diagono Aluminium," an avant-garde sports watch using aluminum alloy, a rare material for watches. The "Diagono Magnesium," which is the base for the concept model, is an evolved version of that.

—Did the shift from "Aluminium" to "Magnesium" represent a significant evolution?

Indeed. The case and the colored parts of the dial of this watch are primarily made of magnesium alloy. Magnesium alloy, like the material used for sports car wheels, combines lightness with strength. By combining this magnesium with a robust special resin, PEEK, used for coating F1 engines, we have created an unprecedentedly tough watch material, significantly enhancing its reliability.

—What about the design and colors?

If you examine the details, I believe you'll appreciate the meticulous craftsmanship. The dial features a special lacquer finish that matches the texture of the case. Please look at the indices. This is achieved through an extremely elaborate process: the index parts are applied, then lacquered, and finally polished to reveal the applied parts embedded within the paint.

This makes the indices appear almost submerged, as if they are completely "set in." Furthermore, the black ceramic bezel and the PEEK finish on the case sides are also highly refined.

—It's truly a finish that exemplifies Bulgari's prowess as a watchmaker.

Bulgari's technical expertise as a watchmaker extends to its external components, and we wanted to express our dedication to developing advanced materials and meticulously crafting details. This is evident not only in the "Diagono Magnesium" but also in the sculpted bezel of the "Diagono Scuba," and the subtle differences in the detailing of the hands on the "Octo" and "Bulgari Bulgari," which share the same movement.

—In recent years, not only movements but also external technologies like materials are being scrutinized. This model truly demonstrates Bulgari's capabilities. Could you also share your aspirations for the future?

For 40 years, we have dedicated ourselves sincerely to watchmaking. Now, recognized by many enthusiasts as one of the few manufactures with in-house movements that has consistently pursued watchmaking, we have earned our place. Moving forward, we will continue our unceasing efforts as watchmakers.