ROGER DUBUIS | SIHH 2015 Geneva Salon New Releases | ROGER DUBUIS

ROGER DUBUIS

Celebrating 20 Years: Mastery in Mechanics and Design

An Impressive Constellation Adorns the Sky

Founded in 1995 under its founder's name, Roger Dubuis has carved out an unshakeable position in the Swiss watchmaking world, armed with two strengths: modern, architecturally impactful designs and high-performance movements adhering to traditional Genevan watchmaking techniques. 2015 marks its 20th anniversary. This year, the brand proclaimed "The Year of Skeleton," focusing on the "Excalibur" line, known for its bold, masculine designs. True to its declaration, a host of full-skeleton watches, etched in the shape of stars, emerged, creating a buzz among global media.

Text by KAWADA Akinori

Excalibur Spider
Double Flying Tourbillon Skeleton

Dominating the Scene with Two Interlocking Carriages

The tourbillon, which incorporates an escapement in its carriage to counteract gravity and rotates, is considered highly difficult to engineer in its "flying" form, where the carriage is supported only from below, making it appear to float. This design presents significant structural integrity challenges.

However, this "Excalibur" features a flying tourbillon meticulously crafted by extensively milling the movement's plates and bridges, while simultaneously shaping them into a distinctive star form.

What's more, it incorporates two such carriages, interlinked... This is not merely about striking design; such a mechanism is achievable only through the mature expertise of a manufacture that produces its own movements.

Case: Titanium + Black DLC-coated Titanium + Red Aluminum
Diameter: 47mm
Thickness: 14.95mm
Movement: Manual-winding (Cal. RD01SQ)
Functions: Flying Tourbillon (Two interlocking carriages)
Strap: Rubber
Water Resistance: 50m
Limited Edition: 188 pieces worldwide
Release: Scheduled for this winter
Estimated Price (excl. tax): ¥33,600,000

Excalibur Spider
Flying Tourbillon Skeleton
Gem-set Rubber Bezel

Pushing the Boundaries of Gem Setting

The "Spider" designation for the 2015 Excalibur flying tourbillon models pays homage to the patience required of watchmakers, a quality mirrored in the spider's web-building. It also demands the utmost patience from the technicians working on the case. This model pioneers a world-first technique: setting diamonds into rubber.

Setting diamonds securely into rubber, which is soft and elastic compared to metal, requires specialized techniques and meticulous care from the setters. The diamonds on this watch are not merely decorative; they are a testament to the exceptional skill invested in their placement.

Case: Black DLC-coated titanium, rubber bezel set with 60 diamonds (World First)
Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 13.75mm
Movement: Automatic-winding (Cal. RD505SQ)
Functions: Flying Tourbillon
Strap: Rubber
Water Resistance: 50m
Limited Edition: 88 pieces worldwide
Release: Scheduled for this winter
Estimated Price (excl. tax): ¥22,200,000

Excalibur Automatic Skeleton

Skeletonization Technique Shines in this Basic Model

The brand's concept for its 20th anniversary, "The Year of Skeleton," is applied not only to its highest complications but also to its more basic models.

This simple model, featuring only two hands for hours and minutes, also showcases movement bridges and plates pared down to the extreme. The gears visible behind the five-pointed star are, quite literally, supported by minimal structures. The visual impact of the skeletonization is particularly striking precisely because it is a basic model with fundamental functions.

Furthermore, the automatic winding micro-rotor is positioned on the dial side, offering the unique pleasure of observing the mechanism's operation while wearing the watch.

Case: 18K Rose Gold
Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 11.44mm
Movement: Automatic-winding (Cal. RD820SQ)
Strap: Alligator
Water Resistance: 30m
Release: Scheduled for this winter
Estimated Price (excl. tax): ¥8,860,000

Roger Dubuis
Tel. 03-3288-6640 http://www.rogerdubuis.com/