WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH＆BASEL
July 16, 2015
Cartier | SIHH 2015 Geneva Salon Report | CARTIER
Eric Maillet © Cartier
CARTIER
Pursuing the Perfection of Style and Technique
Introducing Cartier's New Collection (1)
The biggest news from Cartier at SIHH was undoubtedly the unveiling of a new collection that will serve as a fresh pillar for the brand. It is named the "Clé de Cartier." This marks its debut as the fourth core collection, following the iconic "Santos," "Tank," and "Ballon Bleu de Cartier." Infused with the passion of watchmakers for complications, this creation represents a pursuit of unparalleled precision in its design and craftsmanship, reaching a new level of mechanical perfection.
Text by KAWADA Akinori
Eric Maillet © Cartier
A New Collection, the Brand's New "Key"
Clé de Cartier
Unveiled in 2015, the entirely new collection is the "Clé de Cartier." The model name "Clé" means "key" in French. Inspired by the rounded square-style crown set with a blue cabochon, the act of pulling out this crown to adjust the time and then clicking it back into place evokes the opening and closing of a key. The case, full of curves and dimensionality, is reminiscent of architectural structures. The new in-house movement, Cal.1847 MC, is a masterpiece of extreme simplicity, combining precision and aesthetic beauty. Following the legendary timepieces "Santos," "Tank," and "Ballon Bleu de Cartier," this watch serves as a "key" to the brand's continued advancement.
Case | 18K pink gold
Diameter | 40mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal.1847 MC)
Functions | Date display
Strap | Alligator
Release Date | Scheduled for April 18
Estimated Price (excl. tax) | ¥1,930,000
Laziz Hamani © Cartier
Featuring Multiple High Complications
Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication Watch
A watch that incorporates multiple high complications such as a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater is sometimes referred to as a "grand complication." This watch is Cartier's "grand complication," housing all three of these complex mechanisms in one timepiece. Furthermore, it's not merely about packing in complex functions; the dial and case back are made see-through, intentionally showcasing the intricate mechanisms and various decorations. The movement itself is a mere 5.49mm thick. Despite being self-winding, it incorporates innovations like a two-layer micro-rotor to enhance winding efficiency. This is a high-level mechanism for a debut piece, demonstrating Cartier's exceptional technical prowess.
Case | 950 platinum
Diameter | 45mm
Thickness | 12.6mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal.9406 MC)
Functions | Flying tourbillon, perpetual calendar, minute repeater
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | Daily life water resistance
Release Date | Scheduled for November
Estimated Price (excl. tax) | ¥75,000,000
Laziz Hamani © Cartier
Its Uniqueness is Already Mythical
Crash Skeleton Watch
One might feel compelled to insist that this watch is not broken. And the fact that an original exists makes it even more astonishing. In 1967, the manager of Cartier London was captivated by a watch brought in for repair after an accident, and incorporated the damaged case's form into the design. Thus, the "Crash Watch" was produced in very limited numbers in the '70s and has been passed down as a mythical object. This watch is a modern revival of that "Crash Watch." To achieve this shape, the manual-winding Cal.9618 MC was specially designed, and the unique layout of its mechanism can be constantly observed through the see-through case back. Its revived, distinctive form is already legendary.
Case | 950 platinum
Dimensions | 45.3mm (length) x 28.1mm (width)
Thickness | 9.6mm
Movement | Manual-winding (Cal.9618 MC)
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | Daily life water resistance
Release Date | Scheduled for April
Estimated Price (excl. tax) | ¥8,100,000
Cartier Customer Service Center
0120-301-757
http://www.cartier.jp
CARTIER
Pursuing the Perfection of Style and Technique
Introducing Cartier's New Collection (2)
Laziz Hamani © Cartier
A Microcosm Unfolding Within the Watch
Rotonde de Cartier Astro Tourbillon Skeleton Watch
The tourbillon, which houses the escapement in a rotating cage, is among the most difficult mechanical watch complications to manufacture due to the miniaturization of its parts. This watch features an ultimate tourbillon where the carriage itself rotates. Within the completely skeletonized interior of the watch, the tourbillon carriage rotates on its own axis while also revolving around the center of the watch. Using a strong, transparent advanced material, carbon crystal, the mechanism is supported as if floating within the watch, connected to the baseplate where only the Roman numerals XII and VI faintly remain. The internal structure, where the carriage orbits the center like a planet revolving around a star, is truly a microcosm.
Case | 18K white gold case
Diameter | 47mm
Thickness | 15.8mm
Movement | Manual-winding (Cal.9461 MC)
Functions | Tourbillon
Strap | Alligator
Limited Edition | 100 pieces worldwide
Release Date | Scheduled for April
Estimated Price (excl. tax) | ¥19,100,000
Laziz Hamani © Cartier
Technical Innovation in Diamond Setting
Ballon Bleu de Cartier Sertie Vibrante
Cartier's history as an excellent watchmaking manufacture is also the history of a highly specialized and exceptional jeweler. This new "Ballon Bleu de Cartier" is not simply a watch with diamonds set on it. It revives and refines the "trembling setting" technique, which emerged in the late 19th century, allowing the diamonds on the dial to gently sway with the movement of the wrist and watch. This technique currently has three patents pending and is a feat only possible for Cartier, which possesses both watchmaking manufacture and jewelry expertise. This precious timepiece, equipped with a slim movement, brings a revolutionary innovation to watchmaking elegance.
Case | 18K white gold with diamonds
Diameter | 42mm
Thickness | 14.05mm
Movement | Manual-winding (Cal.430 MC)
Strap | 18K white gold with diamonds
Water Resistance | Daily life water resistance
Limited Edition | 20 pieces worldwide
Release Date | Scheduled for April
Estimated Price (excl. tax) | ¥30,300,000
Laziz Hamani © Cartier
Rêves de Panthère Watch
Poetically Expressing Day and Night
The fascination of watches lies not only in their hands pointing to indices but also in their ability to artistically express time. This watch embodies that fascination. Time is indicated by a disc with a painted image at the lower part of the dial. Half of the dial is an aperture, with 12-hour indices arranged around the perimeter. At 6 AM, an image of the sun appears in this aperture, and as time passes, the sky transitions to blue, with the sun's position changing accordingly. At 6 PM, the sun sets, and the moon appears, transforming the sky into a night scene. Three panthers gaze dreamily at this poetic spectacle of the sun and moon alternately appearing and disappearing to mark the time. The scene depicts nature with a poetic sensibility.
Case | 18K white gold with diamonds
Diameter | 42.7mm
Thickness | 11.75mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal.9916 MC)
Functions | Time display via rotating disc
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | Daily life water resistance
Release Date | Scheduled for April
Estimated Price (excl. tax) | ¥19,800,000
Cartier Customer Service Center
0120-301-757
http://www.cartier.jp