WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH＆BASEL
December 26, 2014
Baselworld 2014 | 41 Must-See Watches Selected by Watch Journalists
Baselworld 2014
This Year's Must-See Watches, Selected by Watch Journalists
Baselworld, the world's largest watch and jewelry trade fair, was held in Switzerland once again this year. From grand complication models by established brands to the latest designer watches, watch journalist Ryuji Fukutome introduces the latest timepieces to watch.
Text by Ryuji Fukutome
New Releases for 2014 Support a Thriving Watch Industry
Baselworld is a watch and jewelry trade fair held annually in Basel, Switzerland, for about a week around March and April. This year, from March 27th to April 3rd, buyers, press, and watch enthusiasts from around the world gathered at Messe Basel. As in previous years, it was a bustling event.
This year, all brands reported strong performance, even more so than in previous years. The new releases, unlike in the past where brands seemed to follow the same direction, felt more distinct in their brand individuality. From a user's perspective, this is a very positive trend, offering a wider range of choices.
Nevertheless, even with individual brands standing out, certain trends always emerge.
Trends that caught my eye include simple three-hand watches and their miniaturization, reissues of original models, all-black models, divers, and NATO military straps. Overall, there's a lack of ostentation (perhaps even a bit understated). It seems brands have judged that users are seeking something more solid and universally appealing, and are reflecting this in their products.
Here, I would like to introduce new models categorized into three groups, reflecting this year's trends.
First is the miniaturization of simple watches, as mentioned earlier. Following several years of larger case sizes, these models feel remarkably fresh. Next are dive watches. While always popular for their practicality, recent designs have become more refined, with new models emerging that can even be paired with dressier attire. Lastly, though not exclusive to this year, is the increasing number of world time watches. A considerable number of new models were unveiled this year, symbolizing our increasingly globalized modern era.
Regarding the products themselves, the quality across all brands has significantly improved. Many brands now offer models with complex mechanisms, and an increasing number are developing their own in-house movements for their flagship models. The development and adoption of new materials are also active.
Furthermore, what has seen remarkable evolution in recent years is the exterior finishing. Improved technology and meticulous craftsmanship have elevated the level of case and bracelet finishing significantly compared to a decade ago. These beautifully polished timepieces exude a magnificent luster.
In essence, the number of recommendable products has multiplied. The question is, how to choose from them? I hope this guide will be of assistance in your selection.
Baselworld 2014
This Year's Must-See Watches, Selected by Watch Journalists
World Time (GMT/Dual Time)
In response to our increasingly globalized society, world time watches have seen a rush of new releases over the past few years. Here, we present seven new items announced this year, from established Swiss brands to domestic manufacturers.
ZENITH
Pilot Type 20 "GMT 1903"
A Classic Pilot's Watch with GMT Functionality
This is a classic pilot's watch, inheriting Zenith's traditional design with its large 48mm case, matte black dial, easily readable Arabic numerals, and large coin-edge crown. Particularly eye-catching is the strap with its leather extension, reminiscent of early 20th-century timepieces, featuring a "ZENITH FLYING INSTRUMENTS" crest on the underside. This model, equipped with a GMT function to display a second time zone, is a tribute to the Wright brothers.
Automatic, Titanium/DLC case, 48mm diameter, 100m water resistance, ¥830,000 (excluding tax)
LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan Zenith
Tel. 03-5524-6420
PATEK PHILIPPE
Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph 5990/1A
Sporty Elegance Made More Practical
This watch, which has featured various complications since its debut in 1976, now presents a more practical model. It incorporates a chronograph for timing and a dual-time mechanism to display two different time zones simultaneously. A distinctive feature is the two hour hands, arranged coaxially, which are identical in shape; the lower hand is skeletonized, allowing for easy reading of both times at a glance. When only one time zone is needed, the hour hands can be aligned.
Automatic, Stainless steel case, 40.5mm diameter (10-4 o'clock direction), 120m water resistance, ¥5,390,000 (excluding tax)
Patek Philippe Japan Information Center
Tel. 03-3255-8109
LOUIS VUITTON
Tambour World Time
A Colorful and Unique World Time Watch
There are no hands on the dial. By aligning the city name at 12 o'clock with the corresponding time inside, you can see the time in various countries at a glance. The 24 cities are represented by discs, each hand-painted by artisans with an image symbolizing the city. A total of 38 colors are used. After coloring, they are dried at 100°C. It takes about a week to complete a single disc. This is a highly unique world timer, crafted with incredibly delicate work.
Automatic, 18K white gold case, 41mm diameter, 30m water resistance, ¥6,910,000 (estimated price, excluding tax)
Louis Vuitton Customer Service
0120-00-1854
FREDERIQUE CONSTANT
Worldtimer Manufacture
The First Bracelet Model in the Series
Based on classical lines, this watch fuses modern elements for a timeless design. As the model name suggests, a key feature of Frederique Constant is its in-house production, from design to assembly. The world timer model's dial depicts a world map and can display the time in 24 cities. This first-ever bracelet watch in the series is a welcome innovation, suitable for changing climates and warmer regions.
Automatic, Stainless steel case, 42mm diameter, 30m water resistance, ¥470,000 (excluding tax)
GM International
Tel. 03-5828-9080
HERMÈS
Dressage L'heure Masquée
A Watch That Reveals Time Only When You Want It To
The dial only shows the minute hand, making the time unreadable. The second time zone, which should be displayed in a sub-dial at 6 o'clock, is only indicated by the letters "GMT," also rendering it unreadable. This groundbreaking model was created with the theme of transcending the concept of time through its hidden time, or "L'heure Masquée." Pressing the push-button integrated with the crown reveals the hour hand, hidden by the minute hand, and displays the current time and second time zone. It's a watch that tells time only when you wish to know it.
Automatic, 18K pink gold case, 40.5mm width x 38.5mm height, 50m water resistance, ¥4,340,000 (excluding tax)
Hermès Japon
Tel. 03-3569-3300
RADO
HyperChrome Ceramic Touch Dual Timer
A Dual Time Watch Operated with a Unique Touch
This is a unique watch where both the main display and the sub-dial at 6 o'clock, showing the second time zone, are adjusted by touching the sides of the case. For example, touching the 10 o'clock position adjusts the main time. Sliding your finger along the left side of the case controls the hour, and the right side controls the minute. Switching between the main and sub displays is also possible with a single touch. The ceramic material does not react to metal detectors, making it convenient as you don't need to remove it during airport security checks.
Quartz, High-tech ceramic case, 42mm diameter, 50m water resistance, ¥270,000 - ¥302,400 (excluding tax)
Swatch Group Japan Rado Division
Tel. 03-6254-7331
CITIZEN
Citizen Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F100
The Most Accurate Travel Watch
The "Eco-Drive Satellite Wave," which corrects time by receiving signals from satellites, has evolved further this year. Firstly, the time required to catch the signal has been reduced, enabling time correction in as little as 3 seconds. Furthermore, it supports all 40 time zones worldwide. This includes 39 official time zones plus an unofficial Australian time zone of Japan minus 15 minutes. This functionality is achieved within a slim 12.5mm case, fitting comfortably on the wrist. The design offers greater freedom and a sharper aesthetic.
Quartz, Titanium case, 45.4mm diameter, 100m water resistance, ¥194,400
Citizen Customer Watch Consultation Service
0120-78-4807
Baselworld 2014
This Year's Must-See Watches, Selected by Watch Journalists
Dive Watches
As a staple in luxury watches, dive watches, combining practicality and design, are among the models gaining popularity in recent years. The emergence of models suitable not only for active pursuits but also for dressier occasions is likely another highlight of this year.
BLANCPAIN
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph
A Stylish and Unique Masterpiece Dive Watch
This is a reinterpretation of the design of a masterpiece released in the late 1950s. The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe was reborn in a modern form last year to mark its 60th anniversary. This is its flyback chronograph model. The movement features a high beat rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour, with a column-wheel chronograph and vertical clutch. The dial has a unique meteor gray finish with a sunburst effect. The indices, composed of straight lines and dots without numerals, are particularly striking.
Automatic, Ceramic case, 50-hour power reserve, 43.6mm diameter, 300m water resistance, ¥1,600,000 (excluding tax)
Blancpain Boutique Ginza
Tel. 03-6254-7233
OMEGA
Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial
A Beautiful Reissue Equipped with the Latest Technology
An attractive reissue model has been released. The original of this model dates back to 1957. It features a slim unidirectional rotating bezel and distinctive indices. The blue of the dial and bezel has a somewhat faded hue, and the combination with the luminous indices and hands creates a vintage feel rarely seen today, which is quite appealing. However, the internals are state-of-the-art. The movement is the latest Master Co-Axial, which solves the long-standing industry challenge of magnetic resistance, capable of withstanding magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss. It is truly modern.
Automatic, Titanium case, 41mm diameter, 300m water resistance, ¥860,000 (excluding tax)
Omega Customer Center
Tel. 03-5952-4400
TISSOT
Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80
Enhanced with a New Movement
The Seastar 1000, highly regarded by professional divers, has been released with an updated movement. The new automatic "Powermatic 80" movement ensures stability and accuracy while achieving an impressive 80-hour power reserve. This extended power reserve will surely provide peace of mind for divers. The ceramic bezel is beautifully crafted, and despite its robust 1000-foot water resistance, it is finished to look stylish even in urban settings.
Automatic, Stainless steel case, 42mm diameter, 300m water resistance, ¥90,000 (excluding tax)
Swatch Group Japan Tissot Division
Tel. 03-6254-7361
BREITLING
Superocean Chronograph Blacksteel
Introducing the New All-Black Model
This is an all-black version of the diver's chronograph. The case and bezel feature a DLC coating, and it is offered exclusively with a black rubber strap, with even the emblem rendered in black. Despite being all black, the hands and indices are highly legible, offering excellent visibility. Equipped with a COSC-certified automatic chronograph movement, it is a highly practical model, true to Breitling's identity as an instrument for professionals. Limited to 1000 pieces worldwide.
Automatic, Stainless steel case, 44mm diameter, 500m water resistance, ¥750,000 (excluding tax)
Breitling Japan
Tel. 03-3436-0011
CARL F. BUCHERER
Patravi ScubaTec
The Brand's First Full-Fledged Dive Watch
With a robust 500m water resistance and a helium escape valve, this watch boasts impressive specifications. It features a unidirectional rotating bezel, a highly legible dial, thick and easy-to-read hands, and is a certified chronometer by COSC, offering substantial practicality. The vibrant blue used on the first 15 minutes of the bezel scale, the lines engraved on the crown, and the luminous indices truly evoke the sea. It is an impressive and highly accomplished sports watch.
Automatic, Stainless steel case, 44.6mm diameter, 500m water resistance, ¥750,000 (excluding tax)
Bucherer Japan
Tel. 03-6226-4650
HAMILTON
Jazzmaster Seaview Day Date
A Simple Sports Watch for Versatile Use
This is a beautifully crafted model that masterfully blends Hamilton's two signature styles: dressy and military. While its form and bezel are characteristic of a classic sports watch, the indices and markers are very simple, resembling a dress watch. Striking a balance between ruggedness and excessive delicacy, this watch, whether in black or blue dial, is versatile enough for both business and leisure.
Quartz, Stainless steel case, 42mm diameter, 100m water resistance, ¥74,000 (excluding tax), scheduled for November release
Hamilton / Swatch Group Japan
Tel. 03-6254-7371
CASIO
G-SHOCK Gulfmaster
Introducing a Feature-Packed, Tough Watch
While not strictly a dive watch, this is a watch for the sea, equipped with functions useful at sea, such as barometric pressure measurement to predict weather changes and a tide graph for tidal information. Furthermore, it is a radio-controlled watch that receives accurate time signals from atomic clocks and includes a world time function, making it a model packed with features. Operation is simplified by "Smart Access," which allows intuitive control of its high functionality. It is a tough watch with shock resistance and 200m water resistance.
Quartz, Resin case, 55.8mm diameter, 200m water resistance, ¥57,000 (excluding tax)
Casio Computer Ltd. Customer Consultation Service
Tel. 03-5334-4869
Baselworld 2014
This Year's Must-See Watches, Selected by Watch Journalists
Small-Sized Watches (Under 40mm)
Finally, we turn to small-sized watches. Focusing on items with case diameters of 40mm or less, we present solid models with universal appeal. With the trend towards oversized watches having subsided, why not rediscover the inherent functional beauty of timepieces?
BREGUET
Classique 9068
A Harmonious Blend of Glamour and Chic
At 33.5mm, this watch falls into the ultra-small category for contemporary men's watches. While its unisex design makes it suitable for women, this was once the standard size for men's dress watches. This model, with its delicate design, long Breguet hands, and gracefully extended straight lugs, conveys a masculine impression. Even with diamonds adorning the bezel and lugs for an elegant touch, its chic ambiance is a testament to Breguet's unique design prowess.
Automatic, 18K white gold case, 33.5mm diameter, ¥2,740,000 (estimated price, excluding tax)
Breguet Boutique Ginza
Tel. 03-6254-7211
CHANEL
J12-365
The J12 Appears in a New Case Size for the First Time
Since its debut in 2000, the J12 has revolutionized the concept of watches and produced numerous captivating models. This model marks the J12's first new case size. It is an elegant timepiece with a smaller, streamlined dial design. The sporty yet elegant construction is supported by a solid base design, offering exceptional versatility. The contrast between the unique BEIGE GOLD used on the bezel and crown and the base black is striking.
Automatic, High-tech ceramic case, 36.5mm diameter, ¥1,162,500 (excluding tax)
Chanel (Watches)
0120-159-559
GIRARD-PERREGAUX
Girard Perregaux 1966
A Classic Dress Watch with a Beautiful Blue Dial
The Girard Perregaux 1966, a traditional and simple round-cased dress watch, now includes a smaller 38mm size this year. The beautiful blue dial further enhances its refined appearance, making it a perfectly suited size for this classic design. The movement is the brand's core in-house "GP3300," a reliable caliber also supplied to other brands within the Kering Group. This is a highly reliable movement.
Automatic, 18K pink gold case, 38mm diameter, ¥1,380,000 (excluding tax)
Sowind Japan
Tel. 03-5211-1791
TAG HEUER
Carrera Calibre 5
An Elegant Sports Watch
A three-hand model has been added to the Carrera line, which originated as a chronograph model and has since evolved. While retaining its sporty character, this model adds an elegant and sophisticated touch, boasting high completeness and versatility for any occasion. It serves as a reminder of the exceptional design capabilities of the Carrera series. The hand-finished faceted indices, hands, and date window are truly beautiful.
Automatic, Stainless steel case, 39mm diameter, 100m water resistance, ¥290,000 (excluding tax)
LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan TAG Heuer Division
Tel. 03-3613-3921
GUCCI
Gucci Handmaster
An Elegant, Small Rectangular Watch
This rectangular case model is equipped with the "GP2700," the flagship movement from Sowind, which owns the esteemed Swiss brand Girard-Perregaux. It features a refined face with uniquely elongated lugs on the upper side. The dial's center and the rotor visible through the case back showcase the Diamante pattern, while the crown is engraved with the letter "G," embodying Gucci's signature style. A medium-sized model with the "GP3300" movement is also available.
Automatic, Stainless steel case, 26.5 x 27.5mm, 50m water resistance, ¥920,000 (excluding tax)
Luxury Timepieces Japan / Gucci
Tel. 03-5766-2030
BVLGARI
Octo Solotempo
Smaller Size, Unwavering Bold Character
The Bulgari Octo, with its striking fusion of an octagonal case and a circular bezel, debuted in 2012. The "Solotempo," added to its lineup this year, features a slightly smaller 38mm case diameter, making it a perfect fit for many individuals in Asia. Despite the reduced size, the watch retains its powerful character. It is powered by the in-house developed Caliber Solotempo, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour with a 42-hour power reserve.
Automatic, Stainless steel case, 38mm diameter, 100m water resistance, ¥720,000 (excluding tax)
Bulgari Japan
Tel. 03-6362-0100
LONGINES
Conquest Heritage 1954-2014
Striking Mid-Century Design
Created to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the collection, this model faithfully reproduces the first "Conquest" model that appeared in 1954. It features a silver dial with a sunburst finish and indices, just like the original. The "Conquest" name in script is also accurately depicted. Naturally, the size remains 35mm, as it was back then, which feels refreshingly contemporary. The case is available in stainless steel, yellow gold, and rose gold.
Automatic, Stainless steel case, 35mm diameter, ¥181,000 (excluding tax)
Swatch Group Japan Longines Division
Tel. 03-6254-7351