The daring "G.F.J." model, featuring rare metal tantalum as its case material.

ZENITH | G.F.J.

At Watches and Wonders 2026 in Geneva, ZENITH unveiled a new limited edition of its legendary chronometer, the "G.F.J." The case is crafted from tantalum, making this a rare and exquisite timepiece.

Text by Kosaku Waseda

Beneath a Historic Facade, the Maison's Unrelenting Pursuit

ZENITH has overcome these challenges, transforming the material's inherent strength and unique presence into a compelling design.

The 39mm case retains the "G.F.J.'s" characteristic stepped bezel and sculpted lugs, while the distinctive blue-grey hue of tantalum lends it a new character. Its subtle luster and deep texture create a quiet strength, resulting in a compact yet substantial feel.

The dial's composition further embodies the Maison's profound understanding of materials and form. At its center, a mirror-polished black onyx provides a liquid-smooth surface. The small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock features mother-of-pearl (white mother-of-pearl set on a grey/black base plate), adding a delicate nuance to the serene monochrome aesthetic.

The flange is adorned with a brick-pattern guilloché, inspired by the facade of the ZENITH manufacture, creating a dynamic rhythm. Eleven baguette-cut diamonds are arranged in a linear fashion, expressing the Maison's vision of luxury. Slim white gold hour and minute hands accentuate the individual elements while maintaining a sophisticated silhouette and balanced proportions.

The movement is a modern reinterpretation of the Caliber 135, originally developed in the late 1940s for observatory chronometer competitions. The competition-specific "135-O" variant alone garnered 235 chronometry awards and set a record by achieving the top position at the Neuchâtel Observatory for five consecutive years from 1950 to 1954.

The modern Caliber 135 retains the original's 30mm diameter (13 lignes) and 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) frequency, while offering a power reserve of approximately 72 hours. Its large balance wheel is paired with a regulating screw and a Breguet overcoil, allowing for precise adjustments via a unique double-arrow regulating system. A hacking seconds mechanism further enhances time-setting accuracy.

Through the sapphire crystal case back, one can admire the Côtes de Genève decoration, chamfered bridges, and the deep tones of a dark rhodium finish. These details echo the tantalum case's color, bringing architectural coherence to the entire timepiece.

This model, which tackles the challenging material of tantalum and continues the lineage of the Caliber 135, is far more than a mere re-edition of an archival piece. It is a testament to ZENITH's profound passion for watchmaking.

G.F.J.

Case Material | Tantalum

Case Size | 39mm diameter

Dial | Onyx, mother-of-pearl subdial, brick-motif guilloché with diamond indices

Movement | Caliber 135 Mechanical Hand-Wound

Power Reserve | 72 hours

Water Resistance | 5 ATM

Strap | Comes with a blue nubuck alligator leather strap, a black alligator leather strap, and a grey calfskin strap

Limited Edition | 20 pieces

Price | ¥11,220,000 (incl. tax)

Inquiries

LVMH Watch & Jewelry Japan ZENITH
Tel. 03-3575-5861
https://www.zenith-watches.com/ja_jp

Frequently Asked Questions About ZENITH Watches

Q. What kind of brand is ZENITH?

It began in 1865 when Georges Favre-Jacot built a spacious, light-filled workshop, bringing together watchmakers from all disciplines and establishing the concept of the manufacture. Founded in Le Locle, Switzerland, the company garnered numerous awards at domestic and international observatory competitions. In 1900, the name "ZENITH" was awarded a gold medal for a pocket watch movement exhibited at the Paris Exposition Universelle. In 1911, "ZENITH" was officially adopted as the company name. In 1969, ZENITH introduced the "El Primero," the world's first automatic chronograph movement boasting a high frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. Having weathered the quartz crisis, the company is now highly regarded as a manufacture of exceptional technical prowess and innovation under the LVMH Group.

Q. What is the meaning behind the collection name "G.F.J."

The "G.F.J." derives its name from the initials of ZENITH founder Georges Favre-Jacot, symbolizing the Maison's rich history. At its heart lies the Caliber 135, a chronometer movement with one of the most decorated track records in watchmaking history. This collection represents an experimental endeavor, blending heritage design with contemporary materials and technology. G.F.J. honors the vision of ZENITH's founder, and the Caliber 135 it houses embodies the Maison's decades-long aspiration for the "perfect watch," symbolizing its relentless pursuit of precision, beauty, and excellence.

Q. Why was tantalum chosen for this model?

Tantalum, the rare metal used in this model, is notoriously difficult to work with as a watchmaking material. While it offers high density, exceptional corrosion resistance, and biocompatibility, its hardness demands advanced machining techniques, requiring specialized tools and meticulous process control for a refined finish. ZENITH has overcome these challenges, transforming the material's inherent strength and unique presence into a compelling design. The case measures 39mm in diameter, and the dial features an onyx and mother-of-pearl subdial, brick-motif guilloché, and eleven baguette-cut diamonds, all within a limited edition of 20 pieces.