WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH&BASEL
June 12, 2019
The Overseas Collection's First Tourbillon | Vacheron Constantin
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
The Bold Decision to House a Tourbillon in a Steel Case
Witnessing the Astonishing Depth of a Historic Maison!
Reimagined in 2016 with a fresh interpretation, the "Overseas" collection has continued to expand, offering a lineup of captivating models. This year, a new creation has arrived, featuring one of the pinnacles of complex mechanisms: the tourbillon. And the material chosen for its case? Stainless steel.
Text by KOIZUMI Yoko
A Peripheral Rotor to Showcase the Tourbillon
A tourbillon is a mechanism designed to counteract the inaccuracies in timekeeping caused by variations in the balance spring's eccentricity due to the watch's position. Positional variance refers to the 'difference' that arises because the balance spring is pulled from various angles by gravity when the watch is worn on the wrist. Instead of calculating these differences individually, Abraham-Louis Breguet conceived the tourbillon by offsetting this effect through the rotation of the balance spring (or more accurately, the balance wheel to which the balance spring is attached). He devised a method where the escapement (balance wheel, balance spring, and escape wheel) was housed in a rotating carriage that completed one revolution per minute.
Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted a patent for the tourbillon in 1801, meaning it is a technology over 200 years old. Yet, why do modern enthusiasts still marvel at this venerable mechanism? To borrow from a popular Japanese character, it's because 'it moves!' For men, 'moving things' are a particular delight, and a watch equipped with moving mechanics offers double the enjoyment. It's a tourbillon that makes you forget time as you gaze at it. Furthermore, this mechanism is exceptionally expensive. While more affordable models have emerged in recent years, a watch equipped with one typically costs well into the millions. In simple terms, it's a 'symbol of wealth.'
For a watchmaker, the artistry of a tourbillon lies in making its core component, the carriage, appear as beautiful and elegant as possible. Vacheron Constantin incorporates the brand's identity, the Maltese cross, into the design of this carriage. The Maltese cross logo, used since 1880, is a profoundly important icon for them. A moving Maltese cross stirs our excitement and makes our hearts race. The color contrast between the silver Maltese cross and the 22K gold index-set balance wheel is also exquisite, and the balance of the components is superb. It's a masterpiece of quality that captivates even when the tourbillon is stationary.
Another characteristic of this model is that it fully showcases the tourbillon carriage, and remarkably, it is an automatic winding watch.
Generally, automatic watches require a rotating rotor to wind the mainspring.
However, with a tourbillon, the desire is to display the mechanism through a transparent case back. If the rotor obstructs the view of the carriage, it becomes nothing more than a nuisance.
But this model's Caliber 2160 employs a peripheral rotor. This type of rotor does not have a central axis; instead, it moves along a circular rail on the outer edge, allowing it to rotate. Consequently, the rotor does not interfere with the tourbillon carriage's aperture. In fact, it allows the watch's gear train to be clearly visible. The peripheral rotor and the tourbillon complement each other perfectly, enhancing the latter's appeal.
Another distinctive feature is the stainless steel case. A tourbillon model represents the pinnacle of complex watchmaking. Given the difficulty involved, it is common practice to pair such a watch with precious materials like platinum or gold to enhance its elegance.
However, this model takes the opposite approach. The "Overseas" collection is characterized by its pursuit of casual elegance and practicality. From this perspective, even with a tourbillon, choosing stainless steel for its practicality is a valid decision.
Even a historic and accomplished maison, founded in 1755, continuously strives to challenge conventions.—This model truly showcases the spirit and philosophy of such a watchmaker.
Overseas Tourbillon
Ref | 6000V/110A-B544
Movement | Automatic (Cal. 2160)
Functions | 80-hour power reserve
Case Material | SS
Case Diameter, Thickness | 42.5mm, 10.39mm
Strap Material | Easily interchangeable bracelet (stainless steel, blue alligator, blue rubber)
Water Resistance | 5 bar
Price | Price on application (as of March 2019, ¥11,900,000 excluding tax)
Release | Scheduled for October 2019 release




