WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH＆BASEL
June 30, 2017
More than just simple, it embodies supreme usability | MORITZ GROSSMANN
MORITZ GROSSMANN
Jumping Date. Excellent Legibility, Anytime
A Masterpiece That Allows Date Correction Without Restricting User Action
Indeed, one cannot grasp its brilliance by merely looking at its face. It masterfully eliminates the "NG conditions" for date correction inherent in mechanical watches, allowing users to operate the crown freely. The hour and minute hands, as well as the bracket-shaped date markers, are finished by hand. The brown-violet color, achieved just before the blue steel tempering, a moment of perfect control, showcases the signature style of Moritz Grossmann.
Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi (OPENERS)
Without the Warmth of Handcraft, a Luxury Watch is Merely a "Machine"
These are the words of Jens Schneider, Chief Designer at Moritz Grossmann. Speaking with him, his gentle demeanor and careful choice of words convey a profound sincerity. His dedication, born from a watch enthusiast's serious contemplation of watches, carries a weight that transcends mere flashiness. It's a revelation, prompting a nod of understanding at such thoughtful evolution.
Chief Designer Jens Schneider.
In the "Atum Date," the indices are brought closer to the center of the dial, with dates up to the 31st of the month marked around their periphery. This system displays the Arabic numerals using bracket-shaped date markers.
The date disc is stationary, while the date marker rotates over the course of the month.
This date marker is of the jumping type. This means that precisely at midnight each day, the date "jumps" forward. Unlike a pointer date, it does not overlap with the hour and minute hands, making the date exceptionally easy to read. Furthermore, being a full circle, it offers the advantage of instantly visualizing whether it's the beginning or middle of the month.
Left: The front of the movement (dial side). Center: The back of the movement. Right: An oblique view of the front of the movement. The bracket-shaped marker visible on the left jumps approximately 11 degrees precisely at midnight to indicate the next date.
Generally, with mechanical watches featuring a date display, manual date adjustment is prohibited for a few hours before and after the date change, typically between 8 PM and 4 AM. This is a fact not widely known, and very few models, even high-end ones, do not have this restriction. This is to prevent damage to the "cam" that advances the date disc or pointer date hand, which rotates once every 24 hours, through manual operation.
In reality, many users unknowingly break the cam by not being aware of this "rule."
Furthermore, this movement allows for bidirectional date adjustment. This means that "reverse date setting," which is also prohibited on conventional mechanical watches, is possible.
Let's look at the specifics. Pulling the crown at the 10 o'clock position to the first stop engages the date adjustment mode, allowing manual advancement of the date marker. At this time, the gears for the time and date are disengaged, even though the movement is running. Consequently, there is no prohibited time zone for date correction, except for a few milliseconds around the date change, and reverse date setting is also possible. Conversely, when setting the time, a stop lever prevents the date marker from moving.
"To ensure no trouble occurs during daily use."
"To be usable for generations to come."
This is the design philosophy of Moritz Grossmann. Truly profound.
Atum Date
Ref. | MG-001266 (left), MG-001267 (right)
Movement | Manual winding (in-house caliber 100.3)
Balance frequency | 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve | Approx. 42 hours from full wind
Functions | Small seconds with stop-seconds, date display, manual winding mechanism with Grossmann pusher
Operation | 2 crowns (for winding / time & date setting), pusher (for restarting the watch)
Case material | 18K RG (left), 18K WG (right)
Case diameter | 41.0mm
Case back | See-through
Strap | Hand-sewn alligator
Price | ¥4,200,000 (left), ¥4,500,000 (right) *Excluding tax for both
Page02.Humans Judge Authenticity by Instinct
MORITZ GROSSMANN
Embodying Jens Schneider's Ideals
A Development Philosophy Beyond Marketing
Humans Judge Authenticity by Instinct
"I wanted to create something that could be adjusted immediately when the user wants to wear it, even if it's been put away in a drawer," says Schneider. This is a perspective thoroughly focused on the user. While lacking ostentation, it appeals to connoisseurs. Or rather, it reflects deep thought and a vision for the future.
Another aspect that demonstrates this approach is the handcraftsmanship that this brand cherishes. Moritz Grossmann is a manufacture, and it also produces its key components in-house. It is particularly renowned for its hand-finished hands.
Jens Schneider, Chief Designer at Moritz Grossmann, states:
"Handwork, such as engraving on the hands or the balance cock, may not be immediately apparent at a glance, but its charm emerges with repeated viewing.
Industrial products gain warmth through human touch, becoming unique to the user. I believe this element is essential in modern timepieces."
A high-end mechanical watch appeals to our emotions. For simply telling time, we have mobile phones, radio-controlled watches, and connected watches. However, these might be akin to displaying reproductions. While convenient, humans judge authenticity by instinct. We can discern the lack of soul in the perfection of mass-produced items.
Atum Enamel
Limited edition of 25 pieces worldwide each, featuring Grand Feu enamel dials from Donzé Cadran.
Ref. | MG-001264 (left), MG-001265 (right)
Movement | Manual winding (in-house caliber 100.1)
Balance frequency | 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve | Approx. 42 hours from full wind
Functions | Small seconds with stop-seconds, manual winding mechanism with Grossmann pusher
Operation | 1 crown (for winding / time setting), pusher (for restarting the watch)
Case material | 18K RG (left), 18K WG (right)
Case diameter | 41.0mm
Case back | See-through
Strap | Hand-sewn alligator
Price | ¥4,100,000 (left), ¥4,400,000 (right) *Excluding tax for both
Page03.Winding the Mainspring with a Twist
MORITZ GROSSMANN
A Development Philosophy Beyond Marketing
Creates User-Friendly Functions and Mechanisms
Winding the Mainspring with a Twist
Moritz Grossmann's further highlight for 2017 is a new method of winding the mainspring. For women, especially those with beautifully long fingernails, the act of winding the crown poses a risk of damaging their nails. In response to this issue, Moritz Grossmann has developed a new winding mechanism: a newly developed strap winding system.
The pillar at the 6 o'clock position of the case, serving as a lug, becomes the winding stem for the movement. Rotating the strap approximately 6 times, as shown in the photo on the left, achieves a full wind.
Currently, the power reserve is approximately 48 hours, but the plan is to increase it to around 72 hours in the future.
The model is named "Tephnut Twist." While appearing as a concept model this season, three dial designs have already been announced, boasting a vibrant lineup.
It can also be ordered with a crown without cabochon decoration. This is a noble model recommended for men who prefer a more delicate style.
Although the position of the winding stem differs, the movement, like existing calibers, possesses exquisite beauty.
Tephnut Twist "Classic Gent"
Ref. | MG-001167 (left), MG-001231 (right)
Movement | Manual winding (in-house caliber 102.2)
Case material | 18K RG (left), 18K WG (right)
Case diameter | 36mm
Case back | See-through
Price | ¥3,300,000 (left), ¥3,400,000 (right) *Estimated price, excluding tax for both
Tephnut Twist "Classic"
Ref. | MG-000951 (left), MG-001233 (right)
Movement | Manual winding (in-house caliber 102.2)
Case material | 18K RG (left), 18K WG (right)
Case diameter | 36mm
Case back | See-through
Price | ¥3,300,000 (left), ¥3,400,000 (right) *Estimated price, excluding tax for both
Tephnut Twist "Fancy"
Ref. | MG- 001165 (left), MG-001232 (right)
Movement | Manual winding (in-house caliber 102.2)
Case material | 18K RG (left), 18K WG (right)
Case diameter | 36mm
Case back | See-through
Dial | MOP, 128 brilliant-cut diamonds
Price | ¥3,700,000 (left), ¥3,800,000 (right) *Estimated price, excluding tax for both