Approaching our 130th anniversary next year, we're updating our expression | CARL F. BUCHERER

CARL F. BUCHERER

This year, it's all about color. And with an edge.
Contemporary Chic! (1)

Last year at Baselworld, Carl F. Bucherer showcased its technical prowess as a manufacture with the unveiling of a new caliber. This year, however, the brand, known for its substance and solidity, presented a dazzling display of color contrast. With the significant milestone of its 130th anniversary approaching next year, an update to its expression was in order.

Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi (OPENERS)

A Hymn to Lucerne's Pride and Freedom
This Year, It's All About Polished Looks

Who would have imagined this brand releasing such vibrant, colorful models? Carl F. Bucherer has long impressed watch connoisseurs as a serious manufacture that wins on substance. Yet this year, the company is captivating with its 'color strategy.' And it's not just a subtle change; it's a bold departure for a first foray into color variations. The combination of a blue-grey dial with a grey strap is also a superb choice.

A New Designer? NO!
A New Product Developer? NO!
A New Strategy? Also NO!

Kurt Allemann, Vice President of Product Development, explains, "This year's new releases are still within Carl F. Bucherer's established lines." While previously the brand focused on orthodox aesthetics to appeal to discerning watch enthusiasts, it has now intentionally incorporated playful color accents to attract a younger audience and those with a keen sense of fashion. However, this doesn't mean a compromise on mechanical excellence; the playfulness with color is purely an extension of their core values.

The pairing of a rose gold case with a champagne-colored dial is also exceptionally refined. This subtle elegance evokes a vintage feel, creating a contemporary, sophisticated aesthetic. The color contrast between champagne and rose gold is perfectly balanced, appearing almost as a standard combination, which is a testament to the strength of the base design. It's a 'gleaming vintage' look – a curious phrase, perhaps, but it captures a key trend in the watch world this season.

Perhaps the combination of a black dial with rose gold appears understated simply because these three watches are displayed together. The dial design, skillfully employing sunray and satin finishes, complements the vintage details of the wedge-shaped hour markers beautifully.

Manero Flyback
Manero Flyback

Movement | Automatic (Manufactured by La Joux-Perret for Carl F. Bucherer)
Chronograph | Flyback function (A special feature allowing the reset button to be pressed without stopping the chronograph hand)
Sub-dials | Small seconds (left), 30-minute counter (right)
Case Material | Stainless Steel (left), 18K Rose Gold (center, right)
Case Diameter | 43mm
Case Back | See-through
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 3 bar
Price | ¥1,030,000 (left), ¥2,520,000 (center, right) *All prices are pre-tax estimates.

Page02.Lucerne's Lake Blue, Lucerne's Forest Green

CARL F. BUCHERER

This year, it's all about color. And with an edge.
Contemporary Chic! (2)

Lucerne's Lake Blue, Lucerne's Forest Green

The new dial colors for the "Manero Power Reserve," which features a manufacture movement, are these two shades: a vibrant blue and a rich green. The sunray finish on the dials enhances their luster, creating an intriguing silky impression. Both the blue and green are colors that fit within business attire, making them perfectly suitable for weekday wear. In fact, pairing them with a similarly colored tie would accentuate a stylish look. Enhancing a classical dial with vivid colors is another example of modern playfulness.

The manufacture movement "CFB1011," featuring modern design on its bridges. This is an advanced automatic caliber with the rotor positioned on the periphery.

And the straps are in matching colors, made of glossy calfskin. The meticulous attention to detail, such as using tone-on-tone stitching that blends seamlessly with the leather, is remarkable. The depth of their commitment is what defines Carl F. Bucherer.

Carl F. Bucherer will celebrate its 130th anniversary next year, counting from the establishment of its predecessor, Bucherer. However, it has only been 15 years since the brand was revamped and renamed Carl F. Bucherer. Considering this, not much time has passed since its renewal. Therefore, as Kurt Allemann states, "We have no intention of changing our stance, nor is it the right time to do so." The tradition of this little-known brand, born in Lucerne, lies in cherishing its products and crafting them with care, even in small batches, rather than pursuing aggressive business expansion.

Kurt Allemann shared the following anecdote.

"Lucerne is the birthplace of Switzerland, and its citizens take great pride in that.

This is why Lucerne citizens have such a strong independent spirit. And the Bucherer family, who have lived here for generations, and Carl F. Bucherer, which has built its history in this environment, strongly embody the free spirit of the people of Lucerne."

The brand remains focused on items that adhere to the traditions of watchmaking, unswayed by marketing trends. This philosophy, of continuing traditional watchmaking for the next generation, seems to perfectly mirror Kurt Allemann's own life philosophy.

Kurt Allemann, Executive Vice President Product
Kurt Allemann, Vice President of Product Development

He moved to Lucerne at the age of 22 and joined Bucherer as a watchmaker. He has been involved in product development since the era of the former Bucherer watch company. In March 2017, he celebrated his 40th anniversary with the company. The new colors and their combinations introduced this year were all projects led by Mr. Allemann.