The "Flower" of Basel This Year is the Chronograph | BASELWORLD 2016
WATCH & JEWELRY / SIHH&BASEL
May 24, 2016

The "Flower" of Basel This Year is the Chronograph | BASELWORLD 2016


BASELWORLD


10 Brands to Watch


The "Flower" of Basel This Year is the Chronograph (1)


The world of watches sees an ever-increasing number of new chronographs released by almost every brand, creating a truly vibrant scene. This trend remained strong at Baselworld 2016. While the development race for in-house chronograph movements, spurred by the "2010 problem" that threatened movement supply, may have cooled slightly, the continuous improvement in overall quality, including case design, is ongoing.

Photograph by NAGASHIMA ToruText by KAWADA Akinori




The Daytona Returns with a Black Bezel
ROLEX | Rolex





There's a sense of "finally" about this. In the mid-1960s, a Daytona stainless steel model equipped with a black Plexiglas bezel first appeared and was manufactured for a long time alongside metal bezel models.

However, from the Ref. 16520 released in 1988 onwards, the lineup was unified with metal bezels, and it disappeared from the collection.


ROLEX | Cosmograph Daytona Cerachrom Bezel Ref. 116500LN


In 2013, the 50th anniversary of the Daytona's birth, a platinum case model with a chestnut brown Cerachrom bezel was released. Since then, there has been strong anticipation for the return of the black bezel specification for the stainless steel model as well.

ROLEX | Cosmograph

ROLEX | Cosmograph Daytona Cerachrom Bezel Ref. 116500LN


The Cosmograph Daytona, announced at Baselworld 2016, features a modern chronograph face with a black Cerachrom bezel that evokes the look of the original Plexiglas bezel, giving it a particularly sharp and refined appearance.

The bezel, crafted using a meticulous process where a ceramic ring is engraved with a tachymeter scale and numerals, then coated entirely with platinum, and finally, the surface platinum is removed to leave it only in the grooves of the numerals and scale, boasts a beautiful luster and excellent legibility.

The dial comes in two variations: an active black lacquer dial and a chic white lacquer dial, both available with the Cerachrom bezel model. Both are expected to be well-received as designs that usher in a new era for the Daytona.

ROLEX | Cosmograph Daytona Cerachrom Bezel Ref. 116500LN



ROLEX | Rolex
Cosmograph Daytona
Ref. 116500LN
Case | 904L stainless steel, Cerachrom bezel
Diameter | 40mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. 4130)
Functions | Chronograph (30-minute counter, 12-hour counter)
Bracelet | 904L stainless steel
Water Resistance | 100m
Release | Scheduled for Summer 2016
Estimated Price | ¥1,180,000 (excl. tax)

http://www.rolex.com/ja/




Page02.OMEGA | Master Chronometer with Strong Magnetic Resistance Further Enhanced



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BASELWORLD | Baselworld


10 Brands to Watch


The "Flower" of Basel This Year is the Chronograph (2)



Master Chronometer with Strong Magnetic Resistance Further Enhanced
OMEGA | Omega


Even before Baselworld, Omega had generated anticipation for new models conforming to the "Master Chronometer" standard, a new official watch certification established in 2015.

The Master Chronometer, certified by the Swiss Federal Office of Metrology, not only sets stringent standards for precision and durability but also incorporates exceptional magnetic resistance of over 15,000 gauss, a significant improvement over previous standards. Consequently, Omega has held a unique position, capable of producing watches that meet these standards using its proprietary non-magnetic Nivagauss material for the balance staff.

At Baselworld 2016, the focus was on how far this Master Chronometer standard would expand, and models conforming to it quickly appeared in the Speedmaster line. The "Speedmaster Moonphase Master Chronometer" is one such example.

OMEGA | Speedmaster

Cal. 9904 OMEGA | Speedmaster Moonphase Master Chronometer


It is equipped with the Cal. 9904, an in-house developed chronograph movement featuring the Co-Axial escapement for reduced friction and proven high precision (precious metal case models use Cal. 9905). Naturally, it also boasts magnetic resistance exceeding 15,000 gauss.

A total of eight models in the "Speedmaster Moonphase Master Chronometer" series were unveiled at this year's Baselworld. In addition to two variations in stainless steel, the lineup included combination models, Sedna gold models, and even a top-tier 950 platinum model.

This has established a new high-end line for the Speedmaster, featuring a beautiful moon phase complication, all at once.

OMEGA | Speedmaster Moonphase Master Chronometer



OMEGA | Omega
Speedmaster Moonphase Master Chronometer

Case | Stainless steel
Diameter | 44.25mm
Thickness | 16.85mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. 9904)
Functions | Date display, Moonphase display, Chronograph (co-axial 60-minute counter, 12-hour counter)
Strap | Alligator
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Release | Scheduled for November 2016
Estimated Price | ¥1,130,000 (excl. tax)

http://www.omegawatches.jp/








Grand Seiko Presents Lightweight Cases of Ceramic and Bright Titanium
SEIKO | Seiko


Grand Seiko, launched in 1960 with the ambition to surpass Swiss luxury watches, is Seiko's flagship collection. For many years, it has reigned as the king of Japanese watchmaking, blending the "Seiko Style" design language, born from a unique aesthetic sensibility and multi-faceted construction, with high-precision engineering that surpasses Swiss movements.

GRAND SEIKO | Grand Seiko Black Ceramics Limited Collection Spring Drive Chronograph GMT

The 2016 new releases include a limited collection incorporating ceramic. A key feature is the hybrid case with a dual structure combining black materials. The outer case is made of zirconia ceramic, seven times harder than stainless steel, while the inner case uses Bright Titanium for enhanced robustness.

The meticulously polished ceramic case accentuates Grand Seiko's signature multi-faceted form and sharp lines. In addition to a refined black dial, a green dial inspired by the Momiji trees used in the Onbashira festival at Suwa Shrine in Nagano Prefecture, where the watches are manufactured, is also available. These limited models exude a special sense of exclusivity.

GRAND SEIKO | Grand Seiko Black Ceramics Limited Collection Spring Drive Chronograph GMT

GRAND SEIKO | Grand Seiko Black Ceramics Limited Collection Spring Drive Chronograph GMT


The movement is Spring Drive, which fuses the structure of a mechanical watch with the precision control technology of quartz. In addition to a high-quality chronograph function with carefully tuned button feel, it also features a GMT function useful for business executives active worldwide. This is a supreme chronograph that challenges new case materials, showcasing the pinnacle of Japanese watchmaking.

GRAND



SEIKO | Seiko
Grand Seiko Black Ceramics Limited Collection
Spring Drive Chronograph GMT

Case | Zirconia ceramic (outer case), Bright Titanium (inner case)
Diameter | 46.4mm
Movement | Automatic Spring Drive (Cal. 9R96)
Functions | Date display, Chronograph (30-minute counter, 12-hour counter), Dual time zone display, Power reserve display
Strap | Crocodile
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Limited Edition | 500 pieces (SBGC015, black dial), 600 pieces (SBGC017, green dial)
Release | Scheduled for June 10, 2016
Estimated Price | ¥1,400,000 (excl. tax)

http://wwww.seiko-watch.co.jp




Page03.TAG HEUER | "Caliber Heuer 01" Reaches Full Maturity



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BASELWORLD | Baselworld


10 Brands to Watch


The "Flower" of Basel This Year is the Chronograph (3)



"Caliber Heuer 01" Reaches Full Maturity
TAG HEUER | TAG Heuer


The "Caliber Heuer 01" (Cal. HEUER 01), an in-house chronograph movement that evolved from the spirit of the Cal. 1887, was introduced in 2015. It is a meticulously crafted movement with 320 parts, featuring a high-quality column wheel mechanism for its motion transmission. It was named in homage to the founder, Edouard Heuer.

TAG Heuer's 2016 offerings include a large number of new Carrera models equipped with the Caliber Heuer 01. A distinctive feature of the Heuer 01 series is the bold skeletonization of the mainplate on the dial side. This allows for an open-worked dial that reveals the gears and date mechanism. For chronograph enthusiasts, it's captivating to watch the sub-dials operate in conjunction with the chronograph hands. Furthermore, the modular case, composed of 12 parts, allows for various material combinations.

TAG HEUER | TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber Heuer 01 Chronograph

TAG HEUER | TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber Heuer 01 Black Ceramic


The "TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber 01 Chronograph Black Ceramic," which garnered significant attention at Baselworld, is a standout. Alongside the sporty steel models, the grey-based and all-black versions also drew considerable interest.

The black version uses ceramic for the case and bezel. Paired with a perforated rubber strap, its jet-black, sharp appearance is reminiscent of a racing car's interior.

The grey version utilizes ultra-light Grade 2 titanium and features a grey dial. With satin and sandblasted finishes to eliminate glare, it presents a Spartan aesthetic. Aptly nicknamed "Grey Phantom," it projects a powerful, monochrome image.

Both models are designed to be actively and sportily worn, true to TAG Heuer's chronograph heritage, and their arrival in Japan is eagerly awaited.

TAG HEUER | TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber Heuer 01 Chronograph



TAG HEUER | TAG Heuer
Carrera Caliber Heuer 01 Chronograph

Case | Stainless steel, ceramic bezel
Diameter | 45mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. HEUER 01)
Functions | Date display, Chronograph (30-minute counter, 12-hour counter), Tachymeter on bezel
Bracelet | Stainless steel
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Release | Scheduled for July 2016
Estimated Price | ¥610,000 (excl. tax)




TAG HEUER | TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber Heuer 01 Black Ceramic



Carrera Caliber Heuer 01 Black Ceramic
Case | Black ceramic
Diameter | 45mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. HEUER 01)
Functions | Date display, Chronograph (30-minute counter, 12-hour counter), Tachymeter on bezel
Strap | Black rubber
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Release | Scheduled for October 2016
Estimated Price | ¥705,000 (excl. tax)




TAG HEUER | TAG Heuer Carrera Caliber Heuer 01 Chronograph Grey Phantom



Carrera Caliber Heuer 01 Chronograph
Grey Phantom

Case | Titanium
Diameter | 45mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. HEUER 01)
Functions | Date display, Chronograph (30-minute counter, 12-hour counter), Tachymeter on bezel
Bracelet | Titanium
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Release | Scheduled for October 2016
Estimated Price | ¥665,000 (excl. tax)

http://www.tagheuer.com/








Expressing the World of Classic Car Racing with New El Primero Models
ZENITH | Zenith


Chronographs, with their focus on precise timekeeping, have a strong affinity with motorsports and aviation, and were originally developed as instruments for these fields. In recent years, Zenith has increasingly aligned its brand identity with these domains, centering on its chronographs with their exceptional high-beat movements.

The Pilot series evokes connections to early 20th-century aviation timepieces, such as those used by Louis Blériot, while Zenith's association with classic car races like the Tour Auto and the HERO Cup further enhances the appeal of its chronographs.

zenith-edit

The new "El Primero 36,000 VpH Classic Cars" model features Zenith's iconic automatic chronograph movement, the El Primero (Cal. 400B), presented in a classic style.

Examining the details of the new model, the anthracite-colored dial features a striped engine-turned finish, reminiscent of classic car interiors. The sub-dials have a different color arrangement compared to the standard "El Primero 36,000 VpH," emphasizing its special nature, while the red hands amplify the instrument-like aesthetic.

ZENITH | El Primero 36,000 VpH Classic Cars

ZENITH | El Primero 36,000 VpH Classic Cars


The calfskin strap has a vintage finish and is perforated, evoking the leather used for steering wheels or gloves. This exquisite piece, skillfully blending the ambiance of vintage cars with the El Primero, is also appealing for its accessible price point.

ZENITH | El Primero 36,000 VpH Classic Cars



ZENITH | Zenith
El Primero 36,000 VpH Classic Cars

Case | Stainless steel
Diameter | 42mm
Thickness | 12.75mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. 400B)
Functions | Chronograph (30-minute counter, 12-hour counter), Date display
Strap | Calfskin
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Release | Scheduled for September 2016
Estimated Price | ¥800,000 (excl. tax)

http://www.zenith-watches.com/jp_jp




Page04.HUBLOT | Celebrating 10 Years of All Black: The Big Bang Unico



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BASELWORLD | Baselworld


10 Brands to Watch


The "Flower" of Basel This Year is the Chronograph (4)



Celebrating 10 Years of All Black: The Big Bang Unico
HUBLOT | Hublot


Hublot introduced the "Big Bang" in 2005 under the concept of "Fusion." Beyond the fusion of materials, in 2006, they unveiled an "All Black" version, dyeing the case, strap, and even the indices on the dial into a uniform jet black. This established a unique dial style of "visible invisibility" and led the trend for all-black models in the watch industry.

In 2016, marking the 10th anniversary of the All Black's debut, a commemorative model was released. The "Big Bang Unico Sapphire All Black," powered by the in-house chronograph movement "Unico," graces this milestone year.

HUBLOT | Big Bang Unico Sapphire All Black

HUBLOT | Big Bang Unico Sapphire All Black


The material is black yet translucent. It's a black that seems to absorb light, yet it's astonishing to see the intricate workings of the Unico movement through it. The entire watch is enveloped in "visible invisibility."

The material is sapphire crystal. While familiar as the material for watch crystals and transparent case backs, it boasts exceptional hardness second only to diamond, making it an attractive choice for case construction. However, shaping such a hard material into a case presents significant challenges, making its rarity noteworthy.

This sapphire crystal has been smoke-treated to achieve a color that is both jet black and translucent. The strap is also made of black, translucent skeleton silicone, maintaining the theme throughout.

HUBLOT | Big Bang

HUBLOT | Big Bang Unico Sapphire


The completely transparent "Big Bang Unico Sapphire," the counterpart to this watch, was announced before Baselworld. As the model name suggests, its case is also made of sapphire crystal. Both are limited to 500 pieces.

HUBLOT | Big Bang Unico Sapphire All Black



HUBLOT | Hublot
Big Bang Unico Sapphire All Black

Case | Black smoked sapphire crystal
Diameter | 45mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. HUB1242 UNICO)
Functions | Chronograph (60-minute counter)
Strap | Black smoked skeleton silicone
Water Resistance | 5 bar
Limited Edition | 500 pieces
Release | Scheduled for August 2016
Estimated Price | ¥6,690,000 (excl. tax)




HUBLOT | Big Bang Unico Sapphire



Big Bang Unico Sapphire
Case | Sapphire crystal
Diameter | 45mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. HUB1242 UNICO)
Functions | Chronograph (60-minute counter)
Strap | Skeleton silicone
Water Resistance | 5 bar
Limited Edition | 500 pieces
Release | Scheduled for July 2016
Estimated Price | ¥6,130,000 (excl. tax)

http://www.hublot.com/








Introducing the All-Black DLC Specification: Octo Ultranero
BVLGARI | Bulgari


Since declaring themselves a "watchmaker" in 2010, Bulgari's timepieces have undergone continuous evolution. Today, they are an undeniable manufacture, boasting high-quality in-house movements and producing complicated watches. The Octo collection symbolizes Bulgari's current prowess.

BASELWORLD 2016 | The "Flower" of Basel This Year is the Chronograph

BASELWORLD 2016 | The "Flower" of Basel This Year is the Chronograph


The new Octo models for 2016 feature a sharp all-black specification. The full scope of the Octo Ultranero, meaning "ultimate black," which was revealed at the pre-Basel press conference in January, has now been unveiled. In addition to the previously introduced models,Pink gold bezel + DLC-coated casea model with an all-DLC coating, including the bezel, has also been announced, presenting a sharp, monochromatic appearance.

BVLGARI | Octo Ultranero Velocissimo

The Octo's complex and distinctive case, formed by the combination of circles and octagons with over 110 facets, is given a mechanical flair by the chronograph sub-dials and pushers, creating a sophisticated item for the discerning man.

The DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) coating applied to this watch provides exceptional hardness and scratch resistance, perfectly complementing its active image.

Inside this captivating case lies the Caliber Velocissimo, based on the El Primero. The model name "Velocissimo," meaning "very fast," derives from this high-beat movement. The watch embodies Bulgari's high-level craftsmanship.

BVLGARI | Octo



BVLGARI | Bulgari
Octo Ultranero Velocissimo

Case | Black DLC-coated stainless steel
Diameter | 41mm
Thickness | 13.07mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. Velocissimo)
Functions | Date display, Chronograph (30-minute counter, 12-hour counter)
Strap | Rubber
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Release | Scheduled for June 2016
Estimated Price | ¥1,210,000 (estimated)

http://www.bulgari.com/ja-jp




Page05.SINN | Announces a Split-Seconds Chronograph to Celebrate 55th Anniversary



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BASELWORLD | Baselworld


10 Brands to Watch


The "Flower" of Basel This Year is the Chronograph (5)



Announces a Split-Seconds Chronograph to Celebrate 55th Anniversary
SINN | Sinn


Sinn's booth at Baselworld 2016 was filled with a celebratory atmosphere. The "TESTAF" standard for pilot watches, developed in collaboration with Aachen University of Applied Sciences and others, had finally been recognized by German industrial standards. The long-desired German-made watch was completed. And it marked the 55th anniversary of the company's founding. There were triple reasons for joy.



First is the "910.JUB," a new model with a captivating classical appearance. This is an extremely rare chronograph, limited to 300 pieces, commemorating the 55th anniversary. The arrangement of the sub-dials, with the 30-minute counter and small seconds placed horizontally, the cream-colored dial, and the classic-shaped pushers and crown all contribute to its vintage aesthetic.


BASELWORLD 2016 | The "Flower" of Basel This Year is the Chronograph


It is equipped with a thoroughly revised movement based on the highly reliable Valjoux 7750. It features two chronograph second hands and a split-seconds function for measuring lap times. Furthermore, the mechanism controlling the "start," "stop," and "reset" of the chronograph employs a column wheel, known for its smooth operation and high durability.

The finishing is also impeccable; the view through the exhibition case back reveals beautiful classical decorations and blued screws. The case back is also engraved with "1961-2016," marking the 55th anniversary.

SINN | 910.JUB

SINN | 910.JUB


While it exudes a strong vintage feel, it also possesses the high reliability that meets modern industrial standards. Sinn's proprietary technologies, such as the "D3 system" that ensures a seamless fit between the crown and pushers and the case, are also incorporated. It is a chronograph of exceptional quality, befitting its 55th-anniversary celebration.

SINN | 910.JUB



SINN | Sinn
910.JUB

Case | Stainless steel
Diameter | 41.5mm
Thickness | 15.5mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. 7750 base)
Functions | Split-seconds chronograph (displays lap times etc. with black split-seconds hand, 30-minute counter)
Strap | Stainless steel (Cordovan strap included)
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Limited Edition | 300 pieces
Release | Scheduled for Summer 2106
Estimated Price | ¥990,000 (excl. tax)

http://www.sinn-japan.jp/








Returning to Classic Design with Current Space Watch Aesthetics
FORTIS | Fortis


Founded in 1912, Fortis is known for its pioneering watchmaking, including the world's first automatic wristwatch. Currently, its flagship line, the "B-42 Cosmonautis Chronograph," is the official equipment for missions on the International Space Station (ISS), making it the world's only wristwatch with a continuously extending spaceflight record.

FORTIS | Classic Cosmonautis Chronograph

FORTIS | Classic Cosmonautis Chronograph Steel


As the name "Classic" suggests, the new "Classic Cosmonautis Chronograph" represents a return to past watch designs. The rotating bezel, previously featured on the B-42 Cosmonautis Chronograph, has been replaced with a non-rotating bezel, and the tachymeter scale is now printed on it.

This style of printing the tachymeter on the chronograph bezel, as seen in the new model, is inherited from the first model that flew into space in 1994. This design change has resulted in a new Cosmonautis Chronograph that evokes the authentic aviation chronograph style that Fortis has traditionally excelled at.

The case back is transparent, and the movement is the reliable Valjoux 7750 (Cal. Valjoux 7750). Two types are available, differing in bezel material. Overall, this is a more accessible classic design, offering enhanced user-friendliness through its reliability and sensible pricing.

FORTIS | Classic Cosmonautis Chronograph



FORTIS | Fortis
Classic Cosmonautis Chronograph Steel

Case | Stainless steel
Diameter | 42mm
Thickness | 14.9mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. Valjoux 7750)
Functions | Date display, Day display, Chronograph (30-minute counter, 12-hour counter)
Strap | Calfskin (or stainless steel bracelet)
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Release | Scheduled for Summer 2016
Estimated Price | Stainless steel bracelet model: ¥360,000 (excl. tax),
Calfskin strap: ¥330,000 (excl. tax)




FORTIS | Classic Cosmonautis Chronograph Ceramic



Classic Cosmonautis Chronograph Ceramic
Case | Stainless steel, ceramic bezel
Diameter | 42mm
Thickness | 14.9mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. 7750)
Functions | Chronograph (30-minute counter, 12-hour counter), Day display, Date display
Strap | Stainless steel (or calfskin strap)
Water Resistance | 10 bar
Release | Scheduled for Summer 2016
Estimated Price | Stainless steel bracelet model: ¥370,000 (excl. tax),
Calfskin strap: ¥340,000 (excl. tax)

http://www.fortis.jp/








Remodeled Chronograph Immersed in the World of Yachting
EDOX | EDOX


EDOX has been the official timekeeper for demanding sports such as powerboat racing and rallies, and has consistently produced robust and functional timepieces suitable for these environments. The Grand Ocean is one such series.

This series debuted in 2008 and has served as the official watch for the "Extreme Sailing Series," an international yacht race for which EDOX has been the official timekeeper since 2013. While elegant at first glance, these watches are remarkably tough. The high-tech world of yacht racing is reflected in their design, offering a lineup that is both luxurious and capable of withstanding hard use.

EDOX | Grand Ocean Chronograph Automatic Extreme Sailing Series Edition

Cal. EDOX011


In 2016, this series underwent a significant model change. The chronograph pushers have been made screw-down, and the case back is now also screw-down. The crown gasket features a double O-ring system, achieving a water resistance of 300 meters, comparable to dive watches.

The rotating bezel ring is made of ceramic, enhancing scratch resistance and legibility. The 30-minute counter at 12 o'clock is marked to measure a countdown of the first four minutes. This corresponds to the "flying start" method used in the Extreme Sailing Series, which includes a four-minute waiting period.

While significantly enhanced, the new Grand Ocean embodies EDOX's signature blend of luxury and sportiness.

EDOX | Grand Ocean Chronograph Automatic Extreme Sailing Series Edition



EDOX | EDOX
Grand Ocean Chronograph Automatic Extreme Sailing Series Edition

Case | Stainless steel, ceramic bezel
Diameter | 45mm
Thickness | 15.2mm
Movement | Self-winding (Cal. EDOX011)
Functions | Date display, Day display, Chronograph (30-minute counter, 12-hour counter)
Strap | Rubber
Water Resistance | 30 bar
Release | Scheduled for Autumn 2016
Estimated Price | ¥390,000 (excl. tax)

http://www.gm-international.co.jp/





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