URWERK | SIHH 2016 Geneva Salon Report | URWERK
WATCH & JEWELRY / SIHH&BASEL
February 23, 2016

URWERK | SIHH 2016 Geneva Salon Report | URWERK


URWERK


The Allure of Product Design and Mechanics (1)


URWERK, known for its distinctive mechanics and design, made its debut at SIHH with a unique fan-shaped minute track for displaying the time. The brand's newly conceived automatic precision measurement mechanism and a new model developed for women were particular highlights at the event.

Text by KAWADA Akinori




Awe-Inspiring: Unique Time Display and New Automatic Measurement Device


URWERK was founded by watchmaker Felix Baumgartner and designer Martin Frei. The brand has garnered attention and a dedicated following among watch enthusiasts worldwide for its unique time display, the "Hour Satellite" mechanism, which is impossible to forget once seen.


Promotional video for last year's "UR-105TA"


The "Hour Satellite" mechanism was developed by Baumgartner and is a highly acclaimed, rare method of time display using rotating discs. The latest iteration features a mechanism with four rotating discs. Frei's craftsmanship is evident, making it understandable why the brand has such devoted followers. Alongside these men's models, URWERK also presented striking, jewel-adorned ladies' watches this time.

Simultaneously, a groundbreaking wristwatch, aptly described as an "invention," was unveiled, featuring an unprecedented automatic precision measurement function. Using electronic devices to measure the performance of a mechanical watch represents a truly epoch-making innovation. URWERK demonstrates a technical prowess that promises exciting advancements in new watch mechanisms.

A Powerful Exterior Evoking Reptilian Skin or Tree Bark


The "UR105 T-REX" takes its name from Tyrannosaurus Rex. As the model name suggests, the exterior decoration resembles the skin of a dinosaur.

Not only the exterior but also the large crown at 12 o'clock are finished to resemble reptilian scales. These employ a traditional Swiss watchmaking technique known as "Clous de Paris." This pattern, forming gentle curves, gradually becomes larger and more dynamic towards the 6 o'clock position. Following these processes, a sandblasting treatment to suppress gloss by spraying fine sand, and an oxidation treatment, result in a magnificent matte black finish that complements the texture of the bronze material. Each meticulous piece of craftsmanship defines the "UR105 T-REX."

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The timekeeping mechanism uses four rotating discs called Hour Satellites. Each of these rotating discs is engraved with numbers to display the time. The "hour" is indicated at the 6 o'clock position on the watch, while the "minute" is shown by a scale engraved along the outer edge of the case.

The automatic winding mechanism for the mainspring also employs a unique system. Known as automatic turbine control, this mechanism allows selection between a "full" mode where the rotor sensitively winds the spring with any movement of the watch, a "stop" mode that halts the automatic winding and allows winding only by hand, and an intermediate mode that reduces the rotor's winding efficiency to prevent over-winding. This is an excellent mechanism that allows the user to choose the winding method according to the remaining spring power and their activity level.

This is a timepiece that we highly recommend for watch enthusiasts intrigued by its original mechanics.

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UR-105 T-REX
Case: Black-coated bronze, case back in black PVD titanium
Size: 53mm x 39.5mm
Thickness: 16.8mm
Movement: Automatic (Cal. UR 5.02)
Functions: Hour Satellite mechanism displaying time with four rotating discs
Strap: Alligator
Water resistance: 3 bar
Limited edition: 22 pieces
Release date: April 2016
Price: ¥8,800,000 (excluding tax)



Page02.The Feminine "UR-106"




Contact


East Japan


Tel. 03-3836-3522


http://www.urwerk.com







URWERK


The Allure of Product Design and Mechanics (2)



The Feminine "UR-106"


The "UR-106" Lotus and Black Lotus are exquisite timepieces that blend Baumgartner's meticulously crafted mechanisms with Frei's jewelry-inspired designs for women.

The watch mechanism, covered by sapphire crystal, features three discs that display the "hour." A scale near the bezel at 6 o'clock indicates the "minute."

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At the 6 o'clock position, a moon phase complication is set. The phases of the moon, depicted on a deep blue lapis lazuli, are beautiful as they wax and wane. The color options, white and black, evoke imagery of light and shadow, yin and yang.

While retaining URWERK's signature mechanics, these watches embody a feminine and luxurious aesthetic, creating a cohesive design. Unlike previous URWERK timepieces, these new models offer a unique brand appeal and a strong impact.

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UR-106 Lotus, Black Lotus
Case: Stainless steel with diamonds (Lotus), black PVD stainless steel with black diamonds (Black Lotus)
Size: 49.4mm x 35mm
Thickness: 14.45mm
Movement: Automatic (Cal. UR 6.01)
Functions: Hour Satellite mechanism displaying time with three rotating discs, moon phase
Strap: Alligator
Water resistance: 3 bar
Limited edition: 11 pieces (Lotus), 11 pieces (Black Lotus)
Available now
Price: ¥11,500,000 each (excluding tax)



Page03.A Mechanism for Enjoying Precision Adjustment




Contact


East Japan


Tel. 03-3836-3522


http://www.urwerk.com







URWERK


The Allure of Product Design and Mechanics (3)



A Mechanism for Enjoying Precision Adjustment


Adjusting the precision of a mechanical watch is a delicate craft performed by a select few specialists. Amateurs risk damaging the watch. However, the "EMC Time Hunter" incorporates a mechanism that allows for easy precision adjustment simply by turning a lever, defying conventional wisdom.

The design evokes a futuristic weapon, with an off-center dial for displaying the hours and minutes. Have you noticed the unusual display between the 9 and 12 o'clock positions on the dial? This is the heart of the watch.

This fan-shaped indicator features two scales. One displays the daily precision, detectable up to ±15 seconds. The other scale indicates the balance wheel's amplitude, providing insight into the escapement's condition.

An electronic device is integrated within the movement, constantly monitoring the balance wheel's oscillation optically. Simultaneously, it measures the daily rate error, displaying the time difference (daily rate) that has occurred.

Power for the electronic device is supplied by a manual self-generating function. The lever on the right side of the case is the power generation lever; pulling it activates the generator. The sufficiency of the power supply can be indicated by an LED, enhancing usability. Pressing the button at 8 o'clock on the case allows the internal electronic devices and sensors to operate using the stored power, enabling the user to check the daily rate and balance wheel amplitude.



If the indicator shows a significant daily rate deviation, the precision can be adjusted by turning the adjustment screw on the back of the case. This screw allows for fine-tuning the speed of the balance wheel's oscillation. Owners can easily adjust the precision themselves without needing to contact a professional watchmaker. If, after adjustment, the displayed balance wheel amplitude falls outside the range of 220-280 degrees, caution is advised.


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This could indicate a malfunction in the escapement, and in such cases, it is best to contact the manufacturer for maintenance.

Mechanical watches can experience significant positional errors and accuracy degradation due to variations in the wearer's daily movements over the course of a week. The ability to perform such simple adjustments is a valuable feature for maintaining timekeeping accuracy, and for precision-conscious watch enthusiasts, knowing their watch's performance can be an enjoyable experience. Being able to regularly monitor the watch's condition daily also increases the likelihood of preventing serious damage. This mechanism offers unique yet ultimate practicality.

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EMC Time Hunter
Case: Grade 5 titanium + stainless steel (green ceramic coating)
Size: 51mm x 43mm
Thickness: 15.8mm
Movement: Manual winding (Cal. UR-EMC02)
Functions: Manual self-generating power, rate and balance wheel amplitude measurement/display via optical sensor and integrated circuit, rate adjustment screw, power reserve indicator
Strap: Fabric
Water resistance: 3 bar
Limited edition: 15 pieces
Release date: Scheduled for within 2016
Estimated price: ¥15,600,000 (excluding tax)




Contact


East Japan


Tel. 03-3833-9602


http://www.urwerk.com