WATCH & JEWELRY /
SIHH&BASEL
February 3, 2016
AUDEMARS PIGUET | SIHH 2016 Geneva Salon Report
The Evolving Royal Oak (1)
This year, Audemars Piguet presents two distinct directions. One is the cutting edge of minute repeaters, a complication the brand has mastered since its inception. The other is the reintroduction of yellow gold, a material inherited from the brand's origins, presented within the Royal Oak's design framework.
By Akihiro Kawata
A Rich Collection Befitting a Flagship Model
The "Royal Oak" collection, which has firmly established itself as the brand's representative line, sees a significant expansion.
First, regarding the exterior, including the case. A major highlight is the new development of 18K yellow gold case models. In recent years, pink gold has been the popular choice for gold models, largely due to its warm hue that blends well with skin tones. However, by prominently featuring yellow gold, a classic color of luxury, Audemars Piguet seems poised to make a statement in line with the recent trend towards returning to watchmaking's roots. Simultaneously, a bold approach is taken by adorning the "Royal Oak Offshore" with vivid and casual colors, signaling a forward-looking perspective.
Meanwhile, the pursuit of technological innovation continues unabated. While the "Royal Oak Concept RD#1," developed through extensive research into acoustics, was a memorable release in 2015, this year sees the introduction of a formal model, not just a prototype. Numerous other complications are also offered, incorporating new technical mechanisms for enhanced accuracy. These include the "Double Balance Wheel," which features two balance wheels and balance springs mounted concentrically.
With these successive internal and external innovations, the "Royal Oak" truly deserves to be called Audemars Piguet's iconic watch.
Captivated by Classic Gold
18K gold is a type of alloy, where 18 out of 24 parts are gold, and the remaining 6 parts are other metals, known as "alloying metals." Depending on the visual hue, it is classified into types such as yellow gold, pink gold, and white gold. Historically, yellow gold was frequently used for watch cases, but in recent years, pink gold has become popular for its ability to blend seamlessly with the skin.
This year, seven models are introduced in "Royal Oak" yellow gold. Upon holding a "Royal Oak" with both case and bracelet in yellow gold, one experiences not an overly gaudy yellow, but a natural sense of elegance. Both the silver and blue dials exhibit a unique, understated color achieved through the Royal Oak's signature hairline and polished finishes. This treatment tempers the gold of the case and bracelet, creating a retro-chic hue reminiscent of antique gold.
For the "Royal Oak," which originally established luxury through stainless steel, this yellow gold model offers a color that was absent from the standard lineup. Particularly in the automatic models, the subdued hue is emphasized, and combined with the 37mm size, it presents as a conservative watch with a modern design. We highly recommend this piece as a new interpretation of luxury.
Royal Oak
Automatic
Case: 18K yellow gold
Diameter: 37mm
Thickness: 9.8mm
Movement: Automatic (Cal. 3120)
Functions: Date display
Bracelet: Yellow gold
Water resistance: 5 bar
Release: Scheduled for March 2015
Estimated Price: ¥4,752,000
Inquiries
Audemars Piguet Japan
Tel. 03-6830-0000
http://www.audemarspiguet.com/jp/
Page 02.Summer Casual Style
The Evolving Royal Oak (2)
Summer Casual Style
The porthole-inspired shape has always been described as futuristic, and the diver's specifications offered a particularly contemporary design. Limited editions with vivid accent colors were not unheard of.
However, the "Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph," exclusively available at brand boutiques, struck me as a true "Columbus's egg" moment. Its most significant features are the first-ever inclusion of a chronograph and its strikingly vibrant color palette.
Three colors are scheduled for arrival in Japan: blue, lemon, and orange. The fresh hue of the lemon is self-evident, and even the deep blue dial is striking, with its yellow hands and dive time track. At first glance, the color scheme might suggest a watch from a casual, design-focused brand. Yet, this is a diver's watch from a prestigious maison, with impeccable craftsmanship in both the case and movement.
The playful "mismatch" between the pop colors and the mature, refined execution is full of wit, making it ideal for adults who appreciate such nuances. If you're searching for a watch to wear this summer on a proper resort getaway, this is the one.
Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph
Case: Stainless steel
Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 14.75mm
Movement: Automatic (Cal. 3124/3841)
Functions: Chronograph (30-minute counter), small seconds, inner rotating bezel for dive time
Strap: Rubber
Water resistance: 300m
Release: Scheduled for June 2015
Estimated Price: ¥3,024,000
Inquiries
Audemars Piguet Japan
Tel. 03-6830-0000
http://www.audemarspiguet.com/jp/
Page 03.That Concept Model Becomes a Production Piece
The Evolving Royal Oak (3)
That Concept Model Becomes a Production Piece
The "Royal Oak Concept RD#1," unveiled as a concept model in 2015, was the culmination of an eight-year collaboration with EPFL (École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne). This remarkable minute repeater boasted astonishing acoustics, producing chime sounds that could be heard comfortably several meters away, far beyond the typical range audible only to the wearer.
This concept watch is now being produced as the "Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie." Along with its production, the secrets behind its extraordinary acoustics have been revealed.
Examining the case back reveals several slits. In reality, the case features a double-walled construction, with an inner case back, essentially an acoustic resonator, screwed into place. Within the case, this resonator holds steel gongs, to which hammers strike. When a hammer strikes a gong, the sound resonates with the acoustic plate. The amplified sound then vibrates the air between the inner and outer case backs, emitting a clear tone through the slits. This design ensures sufficient volume even when the watch is worn on the wrist. Furthermore, the acoustic plate maintains the case's airtightness, preserving its water resistance.
The explanation likens the gongs to strings and the watch case and acoustic plate to the body of a guitar, illustrating a meticulously engineered structure. With its rich volume and carefully crafted tone, said to be even more beautiful when worn, this watch sets a new benchmark for chiming timepieces.
Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie
Case: Titanium
Diameter: 44mm
Thickness: 16.5mm
Movement: Manual-winding (Cal. 2937)
Functions: Minute repeater, tourbillon, chronograph (30-minute counter)
Strap: Black rubber
Water resistance: 20m
Release: Scheduled for September 2016
Estimated Price: ¥64,530,000
Inquiries
Audemars Piguet Japan
Tel. 03-6830-0000
http://www.audemarspiguet.com/jp/
Page 04.Striving for Further Evolution of the Escapement
The Evolving Royal Oak (4)
Striving for Further Evolution of the Escapement
Audemars Piguet has long been dedicated to reforming the escapement, the part responsible for a watch's accuracy. They developed the AP escapement, which features a unique power transmission path to the escapement, minimizing wear. The "Double Balance Wheel" introduced this time represents a further breakthrough in escapement innovation.
This "Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked" is equipped with two sets of balance wheels and balance springs, the components that regulate the escapement's motion. The balance wheel oscillates back and forth, powered by the expansion and contraction of the balance spring. When this movement occurs accurately, the anchor, a component called the pallet fork, advances the gears one tooth at a time, ensuring the watch's correct operation.
The key innovation of the automatic movement, Caliber 3132, is the coaxial, stacked arrangement of these two crucial components that govern the watch's precision. This configuration disperses external forces, such as gravity, that act on the balance spring and balance wheel, particularly during prolonged positional variations. The components mutually compensate for each other's movements, averaging the operation. This stabilization of the escapement's motion makes it easier to maintain accuracy.
Thanks to the sapphire crystal front and back, and the openworked dial and movement, the oscillating balance wheel can be admired from both sides. This watch signifies a new stage in mechanical watchmaking, and its future direction is certainly worth watching.
Royal Oak
Double Balance Wheel Openworked
Case: Stainless steel
Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 9.9mm
Movement: Automatic (Cal. 3132)
Power reserve: 45 hours
Bracelet: Stainless steel
Water resistance: 5 bar
Release: March 2016
Estimated Price: ¥4,752,000
Inquiries
Audemars Piguet Japan
Tel. 03-6830-0000
http://www.audemarspiguet.com/jp/








