A Journey Through Cartier's Creative History | Cartier

Exhibition View: Prologue, "The Interval of Time"<br>New Material Research Laboratory<br>© N.M.R.L/H

WATCH & JEWELRY / FEATURES
October 29, 2019

A Journey Through Cartier's Creative History | Cartier

Cartier

A Journey Through Cartier's Creative History

“Cartier, Crystallization of Time,” currently on display at The National Art Center, Tokyo in Roppongi since October 2nd, marks the fourth exhibition of Cartier in Japan. However, it is the first time Cartier has focused primarily on contemporary works from the 1970s onwards. We invite you to explore the evolution of Cartier's creations, experiencing what has changed with the times and what remains fundamentally unchanged through the ages.

Text by ANDO Sara

Exploring Cartier's Design World Through the Lens of Time

The exhibition "Cartier, Crystallization of Time," celebrating Cartier's unparalleled artistry and its collection of unique jewelry masterpieces, delves into Cartier's innovative design world through three thematic chapters: "Color and Material Transformation," "Form and Design," and "Universal Curiosity," centered around the introductory circular exhibition room, "The Chamber of Time," which unravels history.

The first chapter, titled "Color and Material Transformation," explores Cartier's original perspectives and expressions through its use of materials and color palettes.
Exhibition view, Chapter 1, Necklace
N.M.R.L
© N.M.R.L/Hiroshi Sugimoto + Tomoyuki Sakakida
From the use of platinum to enhance diamonds, to kingfisher feathers and fossilized wood, the exhibition showcases the vast possibilities of materials. It highlights the diverse expressions born from craftsmanship, including metalworking techniques, stone setting, decorative arts, and color palettes. The display stands and torsos are crafted from ancient woods such as Yakusugi and Jindai Keyaki, with each torso meticulously carved by a Buddhist sculptor.

  • “Hindou” Necklace, Cartier, Paris, special order, 1936 (reworked 1963)
    Platinum, white gold, 13 pear-cut sapphires totaling 146.9 carats, 2 leaf-shaped carved sapphires totaling 93.25 carats, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, diamonds
    Cartier Collection, Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection © Cartier

  • Necklace, Cartier, 2016
    Platinum, white gold, 2 Colombian pear-shaped emeralds totaling 60.32 carats, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, diamonds
    Private collection, Vincent Wulveryck © Cartier

The second chapter, "Form and Design," focuses on the visual novelty inherent in the forms of the pieces. It features works inspired by architectural qualities, a sense of movement, serendipitous designs, and the beauty found in everyday life. Amidst displays of rusted iron cases placed on stands made of rough Oya stone, exquisitely polished pieces radiate their brilliance.
Exhibition view, Chapter 2
N.M.R.L
© N.M.R.L/Hiroshi Sugimoto + Tomoyuki Sakakida

  • Necklace, Cartier, London, special order, 1932
    Platinum, 1 cushion-shaped emerald of 143.23 carats, diamonds
    Cartier Collection, Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection © Cartier

  • Necklace, Cartier, 2017
    Platinum, 1 cabochon-cut rubellite of 93.81 carats, onyx, diamonds
    Cartier Collection, Vincent Wulveryck © Cartier

  • Hair ornament, Cartier, Paris, 1902
    Platinum, diamonds
    Cartier Collection, Nils Herrmann, Cartier Collection © Cartier

  • Bracelet, Cartier, 2018
    White gold, diamonds
    Cartier Collection, Vincent Wulveryck © Cartier

The third chapter, "Universal Curiosity," showcases oriental ornaments inspired by a fascination with various cultures and countries, including China, India, and the Middle East.
Exhibition view, Chapter 3
N.M.R.L
© N.M.R.L/Hiroshi Sugimoto + Tomoyuki Sakakida
Japan, too, was a subject of Cartier's exoticism. Similar to Japonisme in painting, motifs from Ukiyo-e prints, such as plum and cherry blossoms, or objects like inrō and netsuke, are fused with the Maison's unique designs, such as bracelets. Also noteworthy are the pieces inspired by flora and fauna of different eras. A giant display unit, shaped like the trajectory of a comet, is another highlight.

  • Bracelet, Cartier, New York, 1925
    Platinum, rubies, emeralds, onyx, diamonds
    Cartier Collection, Marian Gérard, Cartier Collection © Cartier

  • Earrings, Cartier, 2005
    White gold, rubies, diamonds
    Private collection, Katel Riou © Cartier

The exhibition also features Cartier's iconic Panthère, a symbol of timelessness, alongside archival materials such as sketches and design sources that represent the wellspring of its creations, presenting time from various perspectives and angles. Don't miss this opportunity to experience the world of Cartier, a Maison that consistently breathes new life into the world of jewelry while honoring tradition.



Next: Viewing "Cartier, Crystallization of Time" with Tomoki Yuasa
Cartier, Crystallization of Time
Dates: Until December 16 (Mon)
Venue: The National Art Center, Tokyo, Special Exhibition 2E
Address: 7-22-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Opening Hours: 10:00–18:00 (Fridays and Saturdays until 20:00. Last admission 30 minutes before closing)
Closed: Tuesdays (Open Tuesday, October 22nd; closed Wednesday, October 23rd)
Admission: General ¥1600, University Students ¥1200, High School Students ¥800
*Group discount: ¥200 off (for groups of 20 or more)
*Free admission for junior high school students and younger, and visitors presenting a disability certificate (one accompanying person included)
Number of exhibits: Approx. 300
Exhibition design: N.M.R.L
Inquiries

Hello Dial
Tel. 03-5777-8600
https://Cartier2019.exhn.jp

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