TUDOR is a Swiss watch brand founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex. While possessing the technology and reliability of Rolex, its style, which boldly fuses modern approaches, is unparalleled. Having landed in Japan in October 2018, its unique presence and high performance have added a new option to watch selection. Recently, the blue color used in various models in TUDOR's archives has come to be known as "TUDOR BLUE" and seems to be drawing attention among enthusiasts.

Stylist Yuto Inagaki, who is interested in TUDOR, unravels its charm through a sporadic series as he visits TUDOR boutiques nationwide (?!). In the first installment, we visit TUDOR Hankyu Umeda Main Store to explore the question, "What exactly is a mechanical watch?" – something we think we know but surprisingly don't.

Smartphones are convenient, but you might be thinking it's time for a "proper watch." If so, a "mechanical" watch is the way to go. Many readers likely feel this way. However, when it comes to choosing one, it's surprisingly difficult, and the sheer number of options can be overwhelming. Stylist Yuto Inagaki, who accompanied us in selecting a watch this time, shares his thoughts.

"I'm 31 this year and feel like I'm finally maturing a bit. The timing of which watch to wear is a hot topic among my peers. Of course, mechanical watches are among the options. As a stylist, I believe choosing a watch is about crafting your persona. I often have models wear watches, and it can change their visual image. It's not just about matching with clothing; the personality of the model seems different depending on the watch they wear."

Indeed, a watch might be considered an extension of one's personality. Mechanical watches are not inexpensive purchases. Therefore, it's important to understand their value and choose a watch that aligns with your personal style.

Simply put, it's a traditional watch powered by a mainspring. Unlike "quartz watches" that run on batteries, it doesn't require battery replacements. Among "mechanical watches," the type where you manually wind the mainspring using the crown is called "manual wind," while one that winds itself through daily wear is called "automatic." The rotor, a component shaped like a half-moon, swings with the movement of your arm to wind the spring, and it's quite charming how intricate mechanisms are packed into such a small watch. Incidentally, all current TUDOR models are "automatic." Depending on usage, wearing it for about 8 hours a day should be sufficient to keep the mainspring wound without worry.

"I drive an old car, and it requires a lot of maintenance. But that just increases my affection for it. I don't think a mechanical watch will break down as much as my car (laughs), but there's a mechanical charm in the way artisans assemble so many parts. It requires daily care and maintenance, but I like taking care of something I've chosen with effort. It's a feeling of nurturing it over time."

When understanding mechanical watches, the movement (the driving mechanism) itself is also important. In fact, even famous brands sometimes use movements made by other companies. However, TUDOR develops its own proprietary "manufacture movements." Furthermore, they have obtained the "COSC (※1)" certification, awarded to high-precision movements. Additionally, they feature functions such as "200m water resistance (※2)," which is sufficient for daily use, and "approximately 70 hours of power reserve (※3)." While many mechanical watches have a power reserve of 40-50 hours, this 70-hour reserve makes a significant difference. For example, if you wear it on weekdays, even if you don't wear it over the weekend, it will still be running by Monday morning, meaning you won't have to adjust the time before heading to work.

Achieving such high specifications for a mechanical watch within TUDOR's price range (generally between 300,000 and 600,000 yen) is not easily replicated. This is truly TUDOR's unique strength.

"Stylists often operate on tight schedules. Therefore, accuracy is crucial, of course, but reliability as a daily work tool is also important. It's understandable why watch enthusiasts are fans, but the price range is also realistic for younger people. I thought TUDOR would be a viable option for a first mechanical watch."

※1: Certification awarded by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC: Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) to movements that have passed rigorous accuracy tests. TUDOR adheres to standards even stricter than COSC, with a daily rate between -2 and +4 seconds.
※2: Water resistance capable of withstanding water pressure at a depth of 200 meters.
※3: Indicates that the watch will continue to run for approximately 70 hours from a fully wound state.

The longer you use a mechanical watch, the deeper your affection for it grows. However, oil for smooth part movement can run out, and the deterioration and wear of various components, such as gaskets that maintain water resistance, are unavoidable. Proper maintenance is indispensable. The overhauls offered at TUDOR authorized dealers are serviced at the same service center as Rolex, providing a different level of reassurance. The recommended frequency for overhauls is approximately once every five years, costing around 40,000 to 80,000 yen depending on the model and condition. Having it maintained by specialized technicians using genuine parts is a distinct advantage of purchasing from an authorized dealer. Preserving its value through such careful maintenance can be considered part of the pleasure of owning a mechanical watch.

"I used to buy trendy items quickly and consume them, but after turning 30, my criteria for choosing items have shifted to whether they can be used properly in the long term – 5 or 10 years from now. Some people buy mechanical watches as a status symbol or an asset, but if properly maintained, they can be passed down to the next generation. That's a significant appeal, isn't it? I felt the excellence of craftsmanship."

Many readers may be undecided between authorized dealers and parallel import stores. However, purchasing from an authorized dealer means it comes directly to you and offers peace of mind in terms of asset value. Furthermore, a wider selection of models is available, allowing you to compare them in person. More choices are always better. At the TUDOR Hankyu Umeda Main Store we visited, they take the time to discuss with customers who haven't yet solidified their ideas – whether the watch is for work or leisure, or what kind of outfits they want to pair it with – to help narrow down the options.

"Watches have such subtle nuances, don't they? The texture and size can feel different from what you expected from the catalog, and there's a lot you only realize when you actually wear it on your wrist. TUDOR was also one of the first brands to incorporate fabric straps, in addition to leather and steel, expanding the range of styles. That's why being able to try them on and experience them from the wide lineup available at authorized stores is a major advantage, I think. You want to take your time consulting with the staff to decide on the best one."

Yuto Inagaki (Stylist) | Born in 1988 in Osaka Prefecture. After apprenticing under stylist Teruyoshi Morita, he became independent. He is active in various media and advertisements based in Tokyo.

The "TUDOR BLACK BAY" is one of TUDOR's signature models. Available in three colors: black, navy, and burgundy. For each, you can choose a leather or fabric strap, or a stainless steel bracelet. Its simple design makes it versatile for both work and leisure. "The navy suited me best. I'd pair it with a matching navy fabric strap. I don't usually choose colorful items, but when I tried it on, I was drawn to the sophisticated color that offered a sense of lightness (Inagaki)."

The Watch Gallery at TUDOR Hankyu Umeda Main Store, which houses the store, was renovated in the spring of 2020. You can enjoy shopping in a luxurious atmosphere while experiencing the brand's world.
*This photoshoot was conducted after closing hours, with precautions taken to prevent the spread of COVID-19. The store is operating with measures to prevent infection, such as frequent disinfection, offering gloves, and installing acrylic partitions.